Cafe Pyala—not just another 'dhaaba'

Welcome to the haunt of ever-present cats and food typically prepared on blackened tawas and karahis.

Monday night, and I was out with a couple of friends. Since I was born and bred in Karachi, I am very familiar with the “dhaaba" culture all over the city. I have ventured to the karahi and roadside restaurants from the ones in the city to the ones on the highway and as far as way past Sukkur.

Despite my love for culinary adventures, I have not dared to venture past Hussainabad. However, my naiveté was shoved in my face by my trip to Cafe Pyala. I thoroughly opposed the idea when it was put forward by a friend, pertaining much to the mind frame and social conditioning we’ve been through, about the halaat and safety in the area. After much deliberation I agreed with scepticism, expecting nothing more than just another glorified dhaaba. Initially, the plan was to check the out, perhaps have chai paratha there and then decide whether to stay there for dinner or not.

Now that I think about it, I cannot explain how off mark my initial perception was. How wrong my apprehensions were, and how I was so pleasantly surprised. The moment I got off the car, I made my way to the chef demanding details about the food served.

From then on, my pleasant amazement continued. I was astounded by the service, the politeness of the staff, the unbelievably low prices (compared to large serving portions) and the amazing quality of their food. Much to my surprise, I actually ended up smiling throughout at how ignorant we can be living in different parts of the same city.

The place is a roadside diner, haunt of the ever-present cats and your food typically gets prepared on the blackened tawas and karahis, live. But being the fond Karachiites that we are, it is this very feel that applies convention to us and that’s what we love about such places. The stark florescent indoor lights and the scattered seating on the side of the road, along with the school bell at the counter completed the ambience to perfection.

Everyone, from the waiting staff to the chef were all exceptionally pleasant, not to mention patient and polite; each one happily explained the entire menu to me, giving each and every detail and managed to personalise their service despite the rush on a week day.

The final order comprised chicken white karahi. However, during the wait, we ordered parathas for no other reason except that they looked tempting. The 12-rupee paratha was easily 12 inches in diametre. We were all shocked so much so that we called the waiter to re confirm the price. It was a great way to initiate breaking bread. It was cheap and twice the size of a regular paratha and tasted way better.  It was a perfect blend of a golden crust and a soft bite, immaculately shaped, served hot-straight from the tawa to your plate. To accompany the parathas, a number of side dishes such anda ghotala, malai or again, their signature pyaala chai are offered on the menu.

The karahi was an excellent combination of delightful tastes- beautifully succulent pieces of chicken in white gravy, perfectly seasoned with coarsely crushed black pepper and lavishly garnished with green chilies and ginger. The accent of flavours beautifully complimented the hot nan. This was probably one of the best white curries, good enough to contend with any I have ever had.

There was also a choice of breads from fresh, hot nans to chapattis to those golden parathas, out of which we chose the nans. The main course was served with complimentary salad and a thick raita.

The yogurt looked fresh and thankfully not diluted in water. A squeeze of lemon over the karahi and it was heaven.

Along with drinks, my friends and I ordered the special "chai in a pyala" to recourse after the scrumptious meal. We ate till we were stuffed and for the first time in a long time I felt like I paid for something worthwhile. It was definitely one of the most reasonably priced meals I've had to date.

The karahi chicken was offered at Rs550 per kg, and the mutton at Rs700. All the side orders with paratha like the malai, anda ghotala, korma and a number of other dishes were offered at Rs60 per plate.

It is in fact a cafe with food to compare with the best and prices to compete with the cheapest of dhaabas.

All in all, the trip was a sheer delight and all it cost us was Rs120 per person. I felt like I had cheated inflation to fill my stomach.

This place is truly worth a visit. Especially on a guy’s night out, even though they do have an upstairs family room and families do eat in their cars as well.

By far one of the best places I have been to so far within the vicinity. If you want to treat your friends or are on a budget and want to eat quality food Cafe Pyala should be your pick.

Address:

People's Chowrangi, Shah Jehan Avenue, Samanabad, Gulberg, Karachi.

Business Hours:

They're open 24-hours a day except for a few hours just before breakfast starts and that too just for cleaning.

Published in The Express Tribune, October 24^th, 2010.