Par-tea time: The DHA-bas’ fear of the DHA

These new cafes offer a cheaper alternative to the entertainment-starved citizens of Karachi

KARACHI:

As Karachi's hot afternoons turn into pleasant evenings, Bukhari Commercial becomes abuzz with activity. Shiny cars fill up the vacant plots on both sides of the street as their occupants lodge themselves on the truck-art styled tables and chairs. As evening turns into night, the place is humming with conversations over chicken cheese paratha and doodh patti.

Over the last several months, chai dhabas have carved a popular niche in the commercial areas of the Defence Housing Authoirty, especially Chota Bukhari. But as customers throng to these places in lieu of the more expensive coffee cafés, the dhabas' staff works in the fear that authorities may soon wind up their businesses.

"The DHA says that by putting chairs and tables outside our shop, we are functioning illegally. But they don't bring in anything official or in writing. We feel very harassed," says an exasperated Agha Shahid Elahi, the floor manager of Chai Shai, one of the five such establishments that have recently sprung up on a single street.

Read: The DHA-ba chronicle

Only last week, he claims, the DHA authorities raided his dhaba late at night and took away several tables and chairs. Elahi reasons that the business is not harming anyone and the residents living in the area have never complained. In fact, their aim is to give a chance for people to relax under the open sky, he insists.



Pointing to a wall painted with faces of actors and actresses such as Sultan Rahi, he says that they are about to introduce their new paratha, Mommie Paratha named after local film actor, Moamaar Rana.

"The place has become a meeting point and new tea shops are opening up," he added. Behind his shop, is the Chai Point, which opened on August 14.

Of the pioneer, Chai Wala, the managing director, Inamullah Khan, says that while they have been successful in setting up a new trend in the locality, they must live in constant fear of the DHA authorities.

Read: Simple pleasures: Unique combinations of tea at Chai Chowk

"The law and order situation has improved, and the crowd of DHA which once feared stepping out of their homes, is now coming with their families to these places." Khan says that with the passage of time, the customers have increased in number. "The place has a space for 200 people at one time, and we cater to around 1,400 people every day."

The Chai Wala dhaba has its own security. There is an alarm system, a monitoring room and a security guard to handle any unfortunate incident. So far, there has been none. And business has been exceptionally good. Khan, who used to work at a brokerage house, pays Rs60,000 for the shop that houses the kitchen. The empty plot in front of his shop is occupied by tables and chairs where the customers are seated. He claims, however, that rent has gone up in the area owning to their success.

Farheen Tanvir, who had come to café with a friend, said that these dhabas offered a cheaper option for refreshment. Were they to shut down, people would lose a good place to hang out. "It is quite refreshing sitting outdoors with friends and talking about anything without the fear of getting mugged," he joked.

For the women, it also serves as a different hangout. "The crowd is decent and we can sit on the roadside without being harassed," says Sarah, a university student.

For their part, a DHA official said that chai dhabas are not allowed to operate on empty plots as they don't belong to them. "What they are doing is illegal because the plots don't belong to these establishments. Also the outdoor setup is creating problems for the residents."

He said that the DHA 'discourages' such dhabas and tells them not to operate.

DHA spokesperson Major Aurangzeb said that the staff of the chai dhabas who are complaining of harassment by the DHA, should complain to the DHA's complaint cell. "If they are legal, they will come forward. If they are illegal, they will not."

Published in The Express Tribune, September 1st, 2015.