LAHORE: Day two at the PFDC L’Oréal Paris Bridal Week (PLBW) boasted a few notable collections interspaced with musical performances by budding singers Ali Sethi and Sara Haider.
With the House of Kamiar Rokni marking the finale, the day provided a bag of real-life styling tricks worth stealing. How Misha Lakhani made the models strut their stuff in khussas, Mahgul experimented with draping dupattas and Rokni showcased a variety of silhouettes — all proved to be great ways to up your look this season. Drum roll, as we reveal whether our fashion radar signalled green or red on what the designers had to offer or not.
PFDC introduces: New bridal designers
The ‘Vivante’ collection blew everyone away with its detailed artistry in the outfits and accessories. Everything, including the bags featured in the show, was produced in-house for a collection that reflected both talent and diligence. The patterns were inspired by aerial views of architecture and elevation, which were testament to the designer’s creative aesthetics. Sara Haider opened the show for Mahgul in a deconstructed bridal outfit, featuring 3D fruits. The deconstruction lent volume to the clothes, and the bags with filigree patterns complemented them.
This showcase set a fashion precedent for the upcoming season, showing fads, such as sculptural 3D embellishments, oversized armholes in formal wear, and draping dupattas in different ways. The Indian jewellers Vasundhara provided regal jewellery for the showcase. We think the design house might just be ready for a full-fledged bridal-wear display.
Suffuse by Sana Yasir
The brand’s collection was titled ‘Falaknuma’, after the exquisite Falaknuma Palace in Hyderabad, India. She showcased a collection featuring a silver and white colour palette, with silhouettes that left us with a feeling of déjà vu. Too many designers have been doing silver work so, unless someone develops unique aesthetics, such designs may verge on becoming monotonous.
Staying true to her signature aesthetics, the designer showcased her collection titled ‘Wanderlust’. She presented yet another pretty albeit safe collection and didn’t diverge from her comfort zone. But given how her creations are effortlessly beautiful, this may always work in her favour. The line boasted her signature Bohemian charm with light colours, such as sea green, light pink and baby blue. The pieces were embellished using a variety of techniques, including zardozi, ari, vasli, beaten work, pearls and applique. From angharkas to kurti-lehengas, the collection showcased a myriad of silhouettes.
The designer duo opened the night with a striking off-shoulder plain red top and black embellished lehenga from their ‘France Lesage’ collection. The ensemble set the tone for a modern and creatively-evolved line. The brand upped the ante with the showcase, reinforcing why it continues to be among the fashion powerhouses in the country. The dull gold bridal that Rabia Butt donned was exquisite in how it featured intricate detailing and complemented the model’s dusky skin tone. The showcase began from hues, such as golden and maroon, and went on to feature more pastel hues. Outfits cinched at the waist, a dominant trend on the runway, enhanced the feminine appeal of the collection.
The House of Kamiar Rokni
Talented triad Kamiar Rokni, Rehan Bashir and Tia Noon marked the finale with their ‘Alchemy’ collection. The showcase featured bridal couture, including pishwas, jackets, ball skirts, ghararas and flared pants, with a diverse and bright colour palette. It had everything, from trousseau- to mehendi-wear to bridals, celebrating the heterogeneity of bridal looks. The trio knows how to take risks without sliding down the garish route. The collection was enhanced with a range of jewellery pieces created by Rehana and Shakil Saigol of Private Collection.
The ‘Neh Shikar’ line drew inspiration from nature and cultural traditions, putting a modern spin on classic cuts from the Rajput era. But this wasn’t one of the duo’s best. The design house has been churning out the same kind of bridals replete with embellishments for years now. Their collection at PLBW last year was stronger and more cohesive. But their embellished purple velvet pants paired with a loosely-fitted shirt had some redeeming qualities. The juxtaposition of traditional and modern was evident in both their use of techniques and colour palette.
Hussayn showcased ‘Matam’ featuring heavy bridals for women and sherwanis for men and seemed like a well-rounded showcase for both the bride and groom, minus any trousseau pieces. He drew inspiration from the mourning and intensity of the act of matam, which was also visible in his rich use of colours. In terms of design, Hussayn depicted the unique craftsmanship that Chiniot is known for. With delicate embroidered threads and silks, interlaced with organza, tissue and chiffon, there was a lot of layering in the collection.
Published in The Express Tribune, September 19th, 2015.