Misha Lakhani’s ‘Nowruz’ collection at last year’s PLBW. PHOTO: PUBLICITY
LAHORE:
For the fifth year running, the Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) is gearing up to kick off the season of celebrations. PFDC L’Oréal Paris Bridal Week (PLBW), slated to take place from September 16 to 18 this year, is among the most credible platforms for the country’s top couturiers to showcase their works. Many hold that bridal-wear doesn’t merit a fashion week, arguing that the ramp is a space where trends are set and artistic vision is showcased and that bridal fashion is cyclical. But in Pakistan, weddings dominate the social calendar and, with a myriad of striking trends, bridal weeks have been growing from strength to strength every year.
The 22 brands showing over the three days of PLBW include bridal heavyweights, such as Sana Safinaz, HSY, Nomi Ansari, Karma, Élan and The House of Kamiar Rokni. There are also those who are relatively new to the game but have impressed with their showings at earlier fashion weeks, including Misha Lakhani, Ali Xeeshan and Sania Maskatiya.
Read: 22 independent labels to shine at PLBW 2015
This year’s PLBW will mark the second bridal showcase by Saira Faisal and Shakira Usman of Saira Shakira and Ammara Khan, who debuted at last year’s show. Bridal-week newcomers Maheen Taseer, Zarmisha Dar, Jeem by Hamza Bokhari and Faiza Saqlain have been given spots in the rising talent section.
The PFDC has also introduced a new category for fresh blood designers, in which Suffuse by Sana Yasir and Mahgul will present their capsule collections. Asifa and Nabeel and Nickie Nina will also showcase their offerings. Although known for their commercially safe yet dull presentations, we hope they put forth something exciting this time around.
Excluding Karma and Sania Maskatiya, who weren’t available for comment, here’s the full line-up and inspiration behind each collection
Shamaeel Ansari
Collection: Absolute Orientalism
Inspiration: All oriental ancient dynasties
Fahad Hussayn
Collection: Matam – Novelty Couture
Inspiration: The Chiniot craft of wooden carvings, murals and their architecture
Ammara Khan
Collection: Memoirs from a Moonlit Garden
Inspiration: Moonlit rendezvous in the wild garden of a bygone September
Misha Lakhani
Collection: Wanderlust
Inspiration: Travel mementos, art deco design, Ottoman and old Indian craft and heritage
HSY
Collection: HSY F/W 2015 Couture
Inspiration: The heavens, with a soft colour palette and silhouettes reminiscent of HSY’s work of the early 2000s
Nickie Nina
Collection: TBA
Inspiration: The natural habitat, aiming towards preserving nature and wild life
The House of Kamiar Rokni
Collection: Alchemy
Inspiration: Combined elements from across the world with a focus on refined craft, bold colour and lush fabric while showing diversity and originality
Nomi Ansari
Collection: Oudh
Inspiration: The fragrance itself, sticking to signature bold and vibrant colours
Ali Xeeshan
Collection: Tufaan
Inspiration: The desert after the storm thunders through it, forming unique shapes and patterns, leaving it nothing like it used to be
Asifa & Nabeelw
Collection: Venetian Dreams
Inspiration: The vibrant colours of Venetian balconies
Republic by Omar Farooq
Collection: Rosa
Inspiration: Works of designer Madeleine Vionnet, with embroideries reflecting Greek ornaments and flowers and hints of art deco
Sana Safinaz
Collection: The Lesage
Inspiration: France Lesage and their surface treatments and embellishments, and classic elegance of the bygone era twisted to meet the modernity of the ever-evolving Pakistani woman
Élan by Khadijah Shah
Collection: Yet-untitled
Inspiration: The late 18th-century era of decadence when British Raj had strong influence on the royal Indians, something reflective in their attire
Saira Shakira
Collection: Seeking Paradise
Inspiration: Russian Pavloski Posad shawls, floral motifs
PFDC introduces
Suffuse by Sana Yasir
Collection: Falaknuma
Inspiration: References and motifs inspired by the carvings and interiors of Taj Falaknuma Palace, India
Mahgul
Collection: Vivante
Inspiration: Still life oil paintings and the darker hues used in them as opposed to pastel colours
Rising Talent section
Jeem by Hamza Bokhari
Collection: Ruzzkiy Kukly
Inspiration: The tale of a Babushka doll’s visit to Pakistan and the amalgamation of Russian and Pakistani cultures
Zarmisha Dar
Collection: Gullistan
Inspiration: A garden of roses
Maheen Taseer
Collection: Valiant
Inspiration: Traditional bridal elements with intense colours
Faiza Saqlain
Collection: The Regal Dawn
Inspiration: Elizabethan era and the detailing in their costumes and culture
Published in The Express Tribune, September 2nd, 2015.
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