DAY One: All the ruffles and glory
Oozing allure and grandeur, Pakistan Sunsilk Fashion Week day one kicked off brilliantly with designers illustrating their latest collections and parading awe-inspiring style techniques on the ramp. Fahad Hussayn, Misha Lakhani, Zonia Anwaar, Natasha Kamal, Nicki n Nina and Bank Alfalah’s rising talent graced the runway on the opening day.
The designer opened the show with his collection titled ‘Democrats Midsummer 2015’. Toning down the dramatic quotient on the runway, Hussayn focused on the cohesiveness of the ensembles. The collection was aesthetically decadent with out-of-the-ordinary digital prints on organza, silk and chiffon. Toying with a somewhat darker colour palette, we wished he had taken risks with cuts and silhouettes, which consisted mostly of voluminous skirts.
Kamal made her ramp debut with a collection titled ‘Le Nouvel Espirit’. Drawing inspiration from the Art Deco movement of the 1920s, her ensembles exhibited ruffled tops with pencil skirts which made for a flattering silhouette. Geometric designs with great attention to detail were dominant; we felt there was too much pattern-play adorning every outfit, which took away from an otherwise interesting collection.
The ‘Chambeli’ collection worked the long-time trending white on white trend to the hilt with French lace, pearls, organza and silk. However, the collection seemed a bit puzzling – an amalgamation of eastern and western cuts merged with bridal elements simmered its appeal.
Misha Lakhani’s collection titled ‘Modern Mughal’ was a resort collection, which exuded boho chic. With a focus on solid colours and the utilisation of diverse fabrics, the collection boasted stylised bejeweled belts and gladiator flats. Well-suited to dress up or down, the collection was wearable and emitted a restful vibe.
Rising Talent Show
Four designers, namely Asrar Yaqoob, Nida Waqar, Hisham Malik and Najia Qazi, showcased their collections on the PFDC platform for the first time, each displaying promising qualities.
The strongest in the rising talent slot, Qazi displayed a collection titled ‘Sar Bakaf’, which took inspiration from Sadequain’s paintings. She modernised the ensembles by creating separates that were practically appealing. She kept up with the contemporary trend of crop tops and boxy jackets teamed with asymmetrical hems.
DAY Two: Hip techniques on diverse fabrics
Day two marked the preface of high-street fashion brands, including Generation. Other designers that showcased their compilations include Shirin Hassan, Rayya Gilani, BeechTree, Muse, Saira Shakira, Nida Azwer, Hina Butt and Zara Shahjahan.
Hassan’s collection titled ‘Rock N Rolla’ was a blend of vivacious hues coupled with her signature block print technique. The designer experimented with diverse fabrics but the convoluted mish-mash of elements took away from the enticing compilation. But, we do appreciate the break from vibrant colours.
The brand’s collection exuded elevated levels of luxury through textile alone. Using organza and a bunch of dissimilar materials, the ‘Discipline and Drama’ collection featured flared floor-grazing pants, outsized dresses, heavily pleated skirts, chic cropped tops layered with coats and embellished accessories. The use of pearls and French sequins festooned in grids and patterns made the compilation stand out.
Titled ‘Eclectic Retro’, the unique collection featured remarkable cuts and texturing using lace under skirts and extensive shirts. The application of pastel hues worked well with the contemporary collection that comprised fringes and tunics with elaborate detailing and needlework. The addition of subtle bling and fun prints made the anthology a hit.
Nida Azwer Atelier
With the anthology titled ‘The Iznik Collection’, Nida Azwer flaunted a gamut of whimsical prints on luxe silk fabrics. Comprising a cluster of lehengas and wrap-around trousers with hues of cobalt and teal, her courageous use of florals, geometric elements and animal motifs revamped the glamourous ensembles and added to the clean silhouettes.
Being the final illustration of the night, Shahjahan’s collection was a little disappointing. The exhibit showcased the designer’s androgynous aesthetic with the pairing of waistcoats with shalwars. However, the collection went downhill when we saw the merger of floral patterns with desi embellishments. Her collection may be retail friendly but parts of it were not fit for fashion week and we were disenchanted.
Published in The Express Tribune, April 21st, 2015.
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