Behind the scenes: Ayesha - Somaya

Ms T sits with popular designer duo Ayesha Sohail and Somaya Adnan for an inside look at their brand Ayesha-Somaya.

In a time when virtually every woman with a thrifty tailor considers herself a fashion designer, the brand Ayesha-Somaya has achieved in just five years, what few brands do in decades. Established in 2008, entrepreneurs and real-life best friends, Ayesha Sohail and Somaya Adnan teamed up to fuse their creative ideas and experiences to develop what was soon to become one of Pakistan’s leading luxury clothing brands.

Today, Ayesha-Somaya covers a diverse range of prêt wear, haute couture, cocktail and smart casual wear along with a successful annual collection of designer lawn. Ms T sat down with the fashion frontrunners for a one-on-one about their clothing line, how it came into being and where it is headed.

Tell me a little about yourself. Where are you from? What’s your educational/personal background? What are your general professional and non-professional interests?

Ayesha:

I am a born and bred Karachiite. I got married nineteen years ago and have two beautiful children. After raising them for fourteen years, I joined hands with a very dear friend Somaya and held an exhibition of 50 outfits. With a bachelor’s degree in political science, it was quite a jump into fashion designing but I was born to a very creative mother which made it seem like I was meant to do this. I love spending time with my family and taking short holidays.

Somaya:

I atended Convent of Jesus & Mary and then DHA Women’s College. I was raised in a textile-oriented family so it was natural for me to enter designing because I love clothes and all things fashion. I’m a self-confessed workaholic but when I am not working, I enjoy travelling and listening to music.

When did you realise you wanted to become a fashion designer?

Ayesha:

The day friends and family started to seek fashion advice from me all the time!

Somaya:

Since I understood what clothes were.

What was the first article of clothing you ever designed?

Ayesha:

I believe it was a yellow organza kurta with gota on it.

Somaya:

It was a formal outfit for my cousin’s birthday.

How long does it usually take you to construct a piece?

Ayesha:

Mentally, I need about 5 seconds.

Somaya:

Maybe an hour. Sometimes it takes weeks to complete a couture piece.

Describe the general process you go through to design and realise a piece of clothing.

Ayesha:

I always start with colour, followed by fabric and then cut. Once the kapra is on the adha then I am like an artist with a paint brush.

Somaya:

I always visualise the colour and silhouette first and then the accessories and embroidery. But all of that depends on my mood. 

What do you believe makes a quality article of clothing?

Ayesha:

A perfect combination of colour and cut.

Somaya:

The right fabric, tailored to perfection.

What’s your favourite part about conceptualising a design?

Ayesha:

To see it taking shape and becoming part of someone’s wardrobe.

Somaya:

How I would look in it? 

What matters to you most as a fashion designer?

Ayesha:

When I see others wearing my work.

Somaya:

To be able to look at each piece and say, “WOW! I made this!” It gives a sense of pride and love for my work.

What do you like best about designing clothes?

Ayesha:

That I get to wear them first.

Somaya:

To be able to pick anything, anytime to suit my mood. It’s a translation of my emotions. Each garment is an interpretation of the time and care I have put in its creation.

What do you dislike about designing clothes?

Ayesha:

Sometimes, they turn out to be a disaster.

Somaya:

Nothing! I only hate ill-fitted clothes.

What are some of your personal accomplishments as a designer?

Ayesha:

Ayesha-Somaya lawn is definitely an accomplishment! Apart from that, it feels great when a client keeps coming back to us for clothes.

Somaya:

I feel being accessible to a global audience via our e-store, www.ayesha-somaya.com, is a major accomplishment for me. 

How would you define the style your line exemplifies?

Ayesha:

Trendy, smart, feminine and sensuous.

Somaya:

Clean cuts, feminine and opulent.

Where do you get your inspiration?

Ayesha:

Travelling.

Somaya:

From my travels & music.

What are your favourite fabrics, colours and patterns (prints) to work with and why?

Ayesha:

Linens, because they fall so well and the colour red as it can make any design feel alive.

Somaya:

Chiffon and cotton net. I love the new Kalamkaari patterns we did for the 7th Bridal Couture Week. The zodiac silk prints are also a favourite.



Who are your favourite local models to work with?

Ayesha:

Fauzia Aman & Amna Ilyas.

Somaya:

Fauzia Aman, Amna Babar & Nadia Hussain.

How do you select your models?

Ayesha:

Depends on whether the collection requires an eastern or western touch.

Somaya:

We select models based on our collection. For instance, Amna Babar was amazing for our zodiac prints collection. It was a fun, hip and exciting line which was released as a luxury prêt, digital print collection comprising of twelve original prints inspired by each of the zodiac signs and interpreted artistically through design and colour.

What does fashion mean to you?

Ayesha:

Fashion for me is looking and feeling good, comfortable and elegant.

Somaya:

Fashion is your lifestyle and an expression of who you are. My mood shows in what I wear daily.

How would you define your personal style?

Ayesha:

Short tunics with capris or track pants with a t shirt.

Somaya:

Casual chic.

How would you define your city’s fashion?

Ayesha:

Karachi reminds me of New York. You can see someone dressed formally and someone in their track pants at the same event. Here, it is each to their own and I love this non-judgmental attitude about Karachiites.

Somaya:

It’s edgy, fast paced and forever changing.

Who are some of your favourite designers?

Ayesha:

I think each and every designer has a forte.

Somaya:

Elie Saab & Roberto Cavalli.

What are some of your favourite clothing stores/catalogs/websites?

Ayesha:

Zara and Mango are my absolute favourite.

Somaya:

I love www.ayesha-somaya.com! Hehehe.

Do you consider yourself an artist?

Ayesha:

Yes

Somaya:

In a way, yes because when doing couture, I tend to get carried away and lose every sense of time and budget. I just let myself go completely!

What are some of your fashion goals?

Ayesha:

I would like to design for a woman of substance, like the Queen of England or any Hollywood actress.

Somaya:

To have retail stores across Pakistan and globally.

What advice do you have for aspiring fashion designers?

Ayesha:

Bring out your own talent and don’t give up. Also, never show a client anything you wouldn’t wear yourself.

Somaya:

Design only what you would wear.

Where can readers buy your clothes/jewellery?

Ayesha:

The Ayesha-Somaya Design Studio and Flagship Store is based in Karachi. Apart from that, we have recently launched our e-store for fans to shop from across the globe.

Somaya:

The brand is also stocked at Brands Just Prêt stores in Karachi, Dubai and Abu Dhabi, Fashion Pakistan Lounge in Lahore, Concepteurs Lounge in Peshawar, House of Pashu in Multan, Labels in Faisalabad, Bia Galleria in Riyadh and Elan by Salima in Atlanta.

Where can readers find out more about you and your work?

Ayesha:

They can log on to the Ayesha-Somaya Facebook page to learn more about our work.

Somaya:

From our Facebook page and e-store.

Published in The Express Tribune, Ms T, December 15^th, 2013.