Karachista: From Faisalabad to London, Omar Mansoor’s journey in fashion
London-based designer of Pakistani origin is modest about getting recognition on an international stage.
Omar gives a signature touch to his outfits, including the ‘charpoy weave’. PHOTOS: SHAHID MALIK
KARACHI:
The likes of Burberry, Christopher Kane and Temperley may hog the limelight at the London Fashion Week, but emerging designers are one of the cornerstones of the event. For the past seven years, an emerging designer from Pakistan has quietly been making a name for himself.
Omar Mansoor, who is a graduate of the London School of Fashion, is known for his sexy, flattering silhouettes and his clever use of embellishments. A true couturier, he has built up a loyal and exclusive clientele. Arab princesses and wealthy socialites number among his clients. A Qatari princess wore one of his designs when Qatar bid for the Fifa 2022 World Cup. Ascot is one of his busiest times of the year, and his pretty feminine designs are much in demand for both Ascot and elite events such as Polo in the Park.
To those of us used to Pakistani designers who love to blow their own trumpets, Omar is a refreshing change. Unassuming and self-effacing, he’s the typical, slightly desi, Pakistani boy-next-door. There’s no posturing or posing — he’s happy to sit over coffee sharing stories about mangoes, movies and dhaabas. Yet his outfits are cosmopolitan, sophisticated and extremely polished. Moreover, this young man from Faisalabad achieved something that no other designer from Pakistan has managed so far — success and legitimacy on an international stage.
Omar trained at the London College of Fashion and his effortlessly sensual clothes reflect this rigorous training. The clothes are expertly cut and the fit is simply exquisite. However, a designer needs to demonstrate more than excellent tailoring to make it in the world of fashion. Omar’s biggest strength is the way he draws on his Pakistani roots to add intricate embellishments and detailing to his outfits.
Omar says that he was inspired on this path by some advice from Kenneth Cole, when he was just launching his label. “You have to marry your Western education with your Eastern expertise.”
Omar claims this mentoring helped him develop his own take on fusion designs, which later developed into his signature style. One of his trademark touches is a unique ‘charpoy weave’, where he works into silks and other fabrics. His 2011 Ascot collection extensively featured woven bodices made with this technique.
Omar may describe his work as fusion, but his signature style owes much more to the West than the East. Omar may have grown up in Faisalabad, but his work reflects his background at London College of Fashion more than anything else. His work is unashamedly British, with a just a hint of Eastern extravagance. Whereas his tutors advised him to let the cut of his clothes do the talking, Omar continued to experiment with an array of embellishment techniques. He is now known and appreciated for his extravagant use of embellishments, though by Pakistani standards his use of embellishments is subtle in the extreme.
Omar’s work has evolved over the years. Last year at London Fashion Week, he chose to show a very wearable bohemian collection that was poles apart from the glamorous evening wear he is known for. He maintained his usual attention to detail with elaborate lacework on fluid silhouettes, and the show was generally well-received. For spring/summer 2014, he moved back towards the sexy silhouettes that launched his career, but this time he chose to present a ready-to-wear collection as opposed to couture.
Inspired by the opera, Madam Butterfly, the collection, is a symphony of royal blue and black. Omar showed a range of tailored, sensual dresses that had great visual impact. The collection contained versatile pieces that can be dressed up or down as well as some full-blown occasion wear. While it is interesting to see Omar venture beyond couture, the collection was perhaps not as cohesive as those from previous years. There were some stunning pieces and the backs of his outfits were almost uniformly gorgeous. However, there was such a variety of silhouettes that the strong creative vision that Omar usually projects wasn’t quite there. With that said, it was a beautiful and appealing collection. It will be stocked at independent boutiques in the UK and Dublin, and will be promoted via a trade show in early 2014.
Omar, meanwhile, continues to develop his couture line, which includes unique bespoke pieces, and is available by appointment in London. His evolution as a designer is encouraging, and his talent is evident. A Pakistani designer with a truly international mindset and appeal, Omar Masoor is one to watch!
Oxford-grad Salima Feerasta is a social commentator and lover of style in any form or fashion. She blogs at karachista.com and tweets
Published in The Express Tribune, September 25th, 2013.
The likes of Burberry, Christopher Kane and Temperley may hog the limelight at the London Fashion Week, but emerging designers are one of the cornerstones of the event. For the past seven years, an emerging designer from Pakistan has quietly been making a name for himself.
Omar Mansoor, who is a graduate of the London School of Fashion, is known for his sexy, flattering silhouettes and his clever use of embellishments. A true couturier, he has built up a loyal and exclusive clientele. Arab princesses and wealthy socialites number among his clients. A Qatari princess wore one of his designs when Qatar bid for the Fifa 2022 World Cup. Ascot is one of his busiest times of the year, and his pretty feminine designs are much in demand for both Ascot and elite events such as Polo in the Park.
Omar gives a signature touch to his outfits, including the ‘charpoy weave’. PHOTOS: SHAHID MALIK
To those of us used to Pakistani designers who love to blow their own trumpets, Omar is a refreshing change. Unassuming and self-effacing, he’s the typical, slightly desi, Pakistani boy-next-door. There’s no posturing or posing — he’s happy to sit over coffee sharing stories about mangoes, movies and dhaabas. Yet his outfits are cosmopolitan, sophisticated and extremely polished. Moreover, this young man from Faisalabad achieved something that no other designer from Pakistan has managed so far — success and legitimacy on an international stage.
Omar trained at the London College of Fashion and his effortlessly sensual clothes reflect this rigorous training. The clothes are expertly cut and the fit is simply exquisite. However, a designer needs to demonstrate more than excellent tailoring to make it in the world of fashion. Omar’s biggest strength is the way he draws on his Pakistani roots to add intricate embellishments and detailing to his outfits.
Omar says that he was inspired on this path by some advice from Kenneth Cole, when he was just launching his label. “You have to marry your Western education with your Eastern expertise.”
Omar claims this mentoring helped him develop his own take on fusion designs, which later developed into his signature style. One of his trademark touches is a unique ‘charpoy weave’, where he works into silks and other fabrics. His 2011 Ascot collection extensively featured woven bodices made with this technique.
Omar may describe his work as fusion, but his signature style owes much more to the West than the East. Omar may have grown up in Faisalabad, but his work reflects his background at London College of Fashion more than anything else. His work is unashamedly British, with a just a hint of Eastern extravagance. Whereas his tutors advised him to let the cut of his clothes do the talking, Omar continued to experiment with an array of embellishment techniques. He is now known and appreciated for his extravagant use of embellishments, though by Pakistani standards his use of embellishments is subtle in the extreme.
Omar’s work has evolved over the years. Last year at London Fashion Week, he chose to show a very wearable bohemian collection that was poles apart from the glamorous evening wear he is known for. He maintained his usual attention to detail with elaborate lacework on fluid silhouettes, and the show was generally well-received. For spring/summer 2014, he moved back towards the sexy silhouettes that launched his career, but this time he chose to present a ready-to-wear collection as opposed to couture.
Inspired by the opera, Madam Butterfly, the collection, is a symphony of royal blue and black. Omar showed a range of tailored, sensual dresses that had great visual impact. The collection contained versatile pieces that can be dressed up or down as well as some full-blown occasion wear. While it is interesting to see Omar venture beyond couture, the collection was perhaps not as cohesive as those from previous years. There were some stunning pieces and the backs of his outfits were almost uniformly gorgeous. However, there was such a variety of silhouettes that the strong creative vision that Omar usually projects wasn’t quite there. With that said, it was a beautiful and appealing collection. It will be stocked at independent boutiques in the UK and Dublin, and will be promoted via a trade show in early 2014.
Omar, meanwhile, continues to develop his couture line, which includes unique bespoke pieces, and is available by appointment in London. His evolution as a designer is encouraging, and his talent is evident. A Pakistani designer with a truly international mindset and appeal, Omar Masoor is one to watch!
Oxford-grad Salima Feerasta is a social commentator and lover of style in any form or fashion. She blogs at karachista.com and tweets
Published in The Express Tribune, September 25th, 2013.