Trend file with Secret Closet: A Brief History of Trousers Through the Ages

Today we take you on a journey back in time to relive the defining moments in trouser trends for a crystal view of how styles have come full circle through the decades.

Did you know actor Sarah Bernhardt was one of the pioneers in introducing trousers as fashionable women’s wear? She wore them in the 1890’s in Paris, where, at the time, it was still unheard and unseen.

After World War I ended, the roaring ‘20s, as the period came to be known, saw some real activity in the realm of modern fashion. A wave of prosperity and optimism swept through the US and women began entering the work force. It was at this time when fashion doyenne Coco Chanel visited Venice and came across wide-legged trousers. Rejecting the traditional restrictive perspective on women’s wear, she made the comfortable loose slacks a high fashion statement, finally liberating her gender from their corsets. The concept was born out of practicality of the pants in easily alighting gondolas! The pyjama pants became a fashion staple for 1930s Hollywood stars, who would lounge around in them on sets between takes. Hence, the Palazzo pants we wear today can be traced back to Chanel.

The empowerment of women literally led them to “wearing the pants,” and by the 1940s the trouser took on a practical purpose as women worked in war efforts, factories, and on land. They wore trousers that were high-waisted and fitted around the hips, flaring out wide at the bottom. They also wore scarves over their hair to protect their glamorous curled hairdos.

The ‘50s saw women embracing a more feminine version of the trouser inspired by Audrey Hepburn’s signature grace. This was the decade of the high-waist cigarette and Capri-pants that even complemented the hourglass figures. Bright coloured and printed pants were extremely popular, much like they are today. They had high waists, side zippers, flat fronts, wide waistbands, full hips and were slim-fit on the legs, ending just above the ankle.

The 1970s saw another fashion rebellion dominated by the hippie movement. Daring, carefree, ethnic looks with the aim to shock were the prevailing styles. The idea to shun everything materialistic and mainstream led to support designs of a non-western influence — giving rise to Indian and African fabrics, including tie-die and paisleys. The exaggerated bell-bottom flared trouser was the result of this rebellious attitude. The style gained more ground with the generation of the Charlie girls as they were known from the popular show “Charlie’s Angels”.

The bell-bottom was one of the most loved and long-lived styles, thanks to Elvis Presley and Sonny & Cher. Following that, the power suits arrived under the patronage of designers Georgio Armani and Donna Karan in the 1980s. Power dressing was fueled by the idea that if women were to be taken seriously in the work place, they must dress the part. Consequently, the masculine silhouette with broad shoulder pads, double-breasted, over-sized jackets and trousers to match took over. While Armani stressed the unstructured look, Donna Karan added more curves. Other major players included Liz Claiborne, Ann Taylor, and Calvin Klein. The inspiration for the style was in fact Katherine Hepburn whose 1942’s Woman of the Year was recreated by everyone from YSL to Ralph Lauren, and Tory Burch for their Fall/Winter 2012 collection.

The ‘90s is perhaps the most unforgivable and regrettable period in the history of fashion! The grunge movement aka “I just rolled out of bed” look was another form of rebellious fashion that we lived through. Unflattering, baggy, combat trousers and ripped old jeans inspired by hip-hop bands and skateboard culture replaced the skinny jeans. The only positive point we saw here was the healthy body image message it set for young girls. The trend was promoted by the All Saints who paired the clumsy trousers with cropped tops.

Stepping into the 21st century did not set off any major fashion movements; however, it did mark a significant obsession with denim and a return to the skinny jeans. Low-rise denims were popularized by pop-stars like Britney Spears although several other cuts such as boot-leg, flare, and boyfriend jeans also came into fashion. Brand awareness soared as denim brands such as 7 For All Mankind, Diesel, and Citizens of Humanity became household names.

Finally, 2010 and our favourite current period is perhaps simply known for its diversity and freedom of style where fashion implies wearing what looks good on you. From skinny jeans to high-waisted and harem to Palazzos along with colours, statement prints and cropped are one big happy family co-existing in harmony.

Secretcloset.pk is a single online platform showcasing exclusive designers, collections, trends, news and events, and more. The portal provides a one stop guide to all your fashion informational needs in Pakistan.

Published in The Express Tribune, November 24^th, 2012.

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