The diary of a motorcycle journalist

Forced to retreat from K2 to a remote area of Skardu, mountaineer and philanthropist Greg Mortenson in his his book ‘Three Cups of Tea’ has this to say about the beauty of the region and its people: “Here we drink three cups of tea to do business. The first you are stranger, the second you become a friend and the third you join our family, and for our family, we are prepared to do anything — even die.”

Despite their less than privileged living conditions, people in these areas are considered to be the happiest people in the world. Moreover, the traditional foods and the mountain peaks that glitter in the night sky, always impress the visitors. The region also attracts the hikers, mountain climbers and thrill seekers who explore the region and want to fill their souls.

To follow the footsteps of these tourists, I and Kifayat Ali Shah, a fellow journalist, uploaded our two wheelers onto the train leaving for Lahore from Karachi.

As a preference, I never try to see an entire region in one visit. This way, each visit offers a distinct and vibrant world all on its own. My companion and I both decided to reach Skardu directly and enjoy the mountainous peak in the region.

When I started my ride from Lahore, it took seven hours to reach Islamabad, where after having dinner I again took off for Mansehra. After we reached Abbottabad, we stayed there for a few hours and after dinner we took off again, finally reaching Mansehra at around 12 o'clock. After 17 hours of travelling, when I staggered to bed, I was so exhausted that I fell immediately into a comatose sleep that likely even a bomb going off in the nearby area would not woken me up from.

The second day, I started my journey with Kifayat at 3pm in the afternoon and when we reached to Kaghan valley, the sun was setting. After eating Kaghan’s famous Shahbaba Chapli Kebab, I began my ride again and reached Naran by 9pm. The night journey on my bike between the mountainous hill and trenches in between from Kaghan and Naran also heightened the adventure as people usually avoid traveling on these treacherous mountains after dark, due to fear of driving off of them.

Babusar Pass is at a distance of 80 km from Naran. It is on the way to the pass that the Kaghan Valley's scenery becomes most dramatic. Battakundi is at a distance of 16 km from Naran and provides access to Lalazar Plateau, lake Dodiputsar and lake Lulusar, which is the biggest natural lake in Hazara and the source of Kunhar river. The road is wide and accessible for all kinds of vehicles.

While driving on the Karakoram highway after crossing Raikot we reached Juglot city. From there, we turned towards Astore city. The road towards Astore is in a bad shape and at some places roads do not exist at all. Rama meadows is 10 km away from Astore and after passing Rama valley we were on a road that is quite steep. The valley itself is thickly forested with huge pine, cedar, fir and juniper trees.

Once in Rama meadows, where locals made some makeshift arrangements for the visitors, the humble Abdul Latif greeted us and gave us a tent for us to rest. Abdul Latif briefed us that the valley is about 3,300 meters (10,800 feet) above sea level and thus is covered with snow for seven to eight months of the year. In summer, the valley transforms into a lush green.

Helena Norberg Hodge, who spent 17 years living in these mountains and wrote, ‘Ancient Future,’ argued that Western development workers should not blindly impose western ‘improvements’ onto ancient cultures. She wrote that a close relationship with the land can enrich human life beyond all comparison with material wealth or technological sophistication: “I have learned that another way is possible.”

After tasting the flavor of Rama Lake, I began my journey to Skardu through the Deosai plateau. The Deosai Plateau is one of the world’s most wilderness-rich areas. With its unobstructed views and countryside, dotted with cabins, it is one of the more picturesque landscapes.

Also in the north there is the face of Nanga Parbat, the greatest single unbroken pitch of rock on earth. But it is my most unfortunate that I could not reach Deosai due to snowfall, so I decided to go there on my next visit as well as Skardu.

There is a famous saying that, “Jobs fill your pockets, adventures fill your soul.” So after filling our souls, Kifayat Ali Shah and began our journey back to Karachi.