Balancing the old and the new

Naila Tarar wants to retain design philosophy with first commercial line

LAHORE:

Fashion in Pakistan works in congruence with fashion shows, with the feverish media and campaigns generating hype. While some designers enjoy the spotlight, there are those who wish to maintain exclusivity and continue to work quietly towards their craft. One such designer is Naila Tarar who has been designing bridal and trousseau lines on and off for a select clientele in Lahore for the past two decades. She has recently forayed into the commercial with a shoot with model Laila Ali Khan, which boasts old-world charm and beauty.

It is worth mentioning that bridals and trousseau wear cannot be called ‘fashionable’ or ‘trendy’ in the traditional sense. They can be monotonous, repetitive and generally aim to revive rather than innovate. That being said, the revival of old craft and traditions of the region together with contemporary cuts is the ultimate recipe for success, at least in the local context. It is the formula that Pakistan’s quintessential and successful revivalists have been following – from the traditionalists like Bunto Kazmi to The House of Kamiar Rokni. Besides the lines that are being churned out in the name of commerce, Pakistani bridals are an art form and exquisite ‘fashion’ native to this area.





Currently working out of a home-based studio in Lahore, Tarar is a revivalist and a traditionalist whose latest collection of bridals and trousseau wear is breathtakingly beautiful in its own right. “I am inspired by Persian carpets and am completely old school,” she says about her inspirations. Tarar works with her daughter Risham Saifullah, a professional architect with an affinity for painting. Whilst bringing a younger person’s perspective to the designs, Saifullah also gives creative direction to the brand. The resulting collection features materials that boast ethnic, vintage glamour like silk, tissue and brocade. “We use the best material available in the market, and make sure there’s no compromise on that,” adds Tarar.

While they try to mix traditional crafts with contemporary cuts, Tarar wants to ensure that the clothes are practical. “We have jumpsuits, capes, chaddars and velvet coats and frankly it doesn’t matter if you are wearing them on a dress or Eastern attire.”

Understanding that versatility is a key point in clothing, especially with formal attires that one dishes out money on, Saifullah shares that their saaris for instance, can be worn as dupattas and in multiple other ways. “Bringing ethnic wear to a lot of young girls, one has to accommodate such things,” Tarar elaborates.

As for where they want to take their brand, Saifullah shares, “We want to take out another few lines and see how the market responds. Depending on that we will make ourselves more accessible.”

Published in The Express Tribune, February 22^nd,  2016.

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