Eating destination: From the ancient land of Persia

Iranian restaurant in F-10 provides change of flavour for residents

The stall operates from 7pm to midnight without any days off. PHOTOS: HUMA CHOUDHARY/EXPRESS

ISLAMABAD:
Mansoor prepares one kebab after another and places the skewers swiftly on a burning grill, avoiding too much wait-time for customers who have arrived to collect their orders.

He smiles kindly at a customer who is on time to receive his order and hurries towards his car with a paper-bag full of kebab rolls.

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Islamabad’s street food market has been evolving at snail’s pace since the past decade. With roll parathas and Afghan burgers widely available all over the city, a recent Iranian food-joint is a breath of fresh air for food-lovers and offers a limited yet deliciously flavourful range of Chelow, Joojeh and Koobideh kebabs to residents of the capital.



This small road-side setup in Sector F-10 consists of two tables, four chairs, fairy lights coupled with some great hospitality. “Persian food is prepared with a delicate balance of sweet and sour, hot and cold and the flavours are subtle yet rich, suiting everyone’s taste-buds” shared the joint’s head Mansoor Ghafoori, who is from an Iranian origin but has been living in Pakistan since the past fifteen years. Ghafoori lost his vegetable farm located on the outskirts of Islamabad when his family migrated to Australia, and recently decided to open this nameless set-up along Maryam Kulsoom, a Pakistani-Afghan woman who had previously worked as a helper in his house.

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The delightfully smooth Chelow kebabs coupled with Persian green tea leave a hearty smile on one’s face. The kebabs are well-marinated in mild herbs and are offered either in the form of a sandwich prepared using grilled tomatoes and other sauces rolled in the traditional Iranian bread or with buttered saffron rice.


“I went into depression when my family moved away and stopped working at all and ended up losing my farm,” expressed 56-year-old Ghafoor. Maryam, who has lived a tough life herself, motivated me to start my own business and here we are selling what we love most — food,” he shared with a smile.

His co-worker Maryam was raised in an orphanage after her father moved back to Afghanistan leaving his children here.

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“Since I’ve previously worked at Mansoor’s house as a helper, I learnt how to cook a variety of Iranian dishes,” she said. She told The Express Tribune that if Islamabad’s market responds well to the items being offered currently, they will add more to the menu, venturing into a variety of culinary delights including sweets.

Muhammad Umar Farooq, Maryam’s step-son and the third member of the team, attends the stall with his mother after work every day. “Other than kebab rolls which are doing quite well since the past week, we offer Turkish green and black tea with a Persian flavour” he shared. He further expressed that they’ve already built a loyal clientele who drop by after dinner to have their special tea. “We operate from 7pm to midnight without skipping a day,” he added.

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Malik, a regular customer, said “I’ve seen where Mansoor purchases his meat and it’s a very hygienic shop.” Considering the increase in unethical food practices that we hear about all the time, Mansoor and his friends are using quality products, he added.

Published in The Express Tribune, October 19th, 2015.
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