The PLBW 2015 sneak peek

Three-day event to feature eclectic mix of old and new designers boasting striking aesthetics


Mehek Saeed September 01, 2015
Misha Lakhani’s ‘Nowruz’ collection at last year’s PLBW. PHOTO: PUBLICITY

LAHORE:


For the fifth year running, the Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) is gearing up to kick off the season of celebrations. PFDC L’Oréal Paris Bridal Week (PLBW), slated to take place from September 16 to 18 this year, is among the most credible platforms for the country’s top couturiers to showcase their works. Many hold that bridal-wear doesn’t merit a fashion week, arguing that the ramp is a space where trends are set and artistic vision is showcased and that bridal fashion is cyclical. But in Pakistan, weddings dominate the social calendar and, with a myriad of striking trends, bridal weeks have been growing from strength to strength every year.


The 22 brands showing over the three days of PLBW include bridal heavyweights, such as Sana Safinaz, HSY, Nomi Ansari, Karma, Élan and The House of Kamiar Rokni. There are also those who are relatively new to the game but have impressed with their showings at earlier fashion weeks, including Misha Lakhani, Ali Xeeshan and Sania Maskatiya.

Read: 22 independent labels to shine at PLBW 2015

This year’s PLBW will mark the second bridal showcase by Saira Faisal and Shakira Usman of Saira Shakira and Ammara Khan, who debuted at last year’s show. Bridal-week newcomers Maheen Taseer, Zarmisha Dar, Jeem by Hamza Bokhari and Faiza Saqlain have been given spots in the rising talent section.

The PFDC has also introduced a new category for fresh blood designers, in which Suffuse by Sana Yasir and Mahgul will present their capsule collections. Asifa and Nabeel and Nickie Nina will also showcase their offerings. Although known for their commercially safe yet dull presentations, we hope they put forth something exciting this time around.

Excluding Karma and Sania Maskatiya, who weren’t available for comment, here’s the full line-up and inspiration behind each collection

Shamaeel Ansari

Collection: Absolute Orientalism

Inspiration: All oriental ancient dynasties 

Fahad Hussayn

Collection: Matam – Novelty Couture

Inspiration: The Chiniot craft of wooden carvings, murals and their architecture 

Ammara Khan

Collection: Memoirs from a Moonlit Garden

Inspiration: Moonlit rendezvous in the wild garden of a bygone September 

Misha Lakhani

Collection: Wanderlust

Inspiration: Travel mementos, art deco design, Ottoman and old Indian craft and heritage 

HSY

Collection: HSY F/W 2015 Couture

Inspiration: The heavens, with a soft colour palette and silhouettes reminiscent of HSY’s work of the early 2000s

Nickie Nina

Collection: TBA

Inspiration: The natural habitat, aiming towards preserving nature and wild life 

The House of Kamiar Rokni

Collection: Alchemy

Inspiration: Combined elements from across the world with a focus on refined craft, bold colour and lush fabric while showing diversity and originality 

Nomi Ansari

Collection: Oudh

Inspiration: The fragrance itself, sticking to signature bold and vibrant colours 

Ali Xeeshan

Collection: Tufaan

Inspiration: The desert after the storm thunders through it, forming unique shapes and patterns, leaving it nothing like it used to be 

Asifa & Nabeelw

Collection: Venetian Dreams

Inspiration: The vibrant colours of Venetian balconies

Republic by Omar Farooq

Collection: Rosa

Inspiration: Works of designer Madeleine Vionnet, with embroideries reflecting Greek ornaments and flowers and hints of art deco 

Sana Safinaz

Collection: The Lesage

Inspiration: France Lesage and their surface treatments and embellishments, and classic elegance of the bygone era twisted to meet the modernity of the ever-evolving Pakistani woman 

Élan by Khadijah Shah

Collection: Yet-untitled

Inspiration: The late 18th-century era of decadence when British Raj had strong influence on the royal Indians, something reflective in their attire 

Saira Shakira

Collection: Seeking Paradise

Inspiration: Russian Pavloski Posad shawls, floral motifs

PFDC introduces

Suffuse by Sana Yasir

Collection: Falaknuma

Inspiration: References and motifs inspired by the carvings and interiors of Taj Falaknuma Palace, India

Mahgul

Collection: Vivante

Inspiration: Still life oil paintings and the darker hues used in them as opposed to pastel colours

Rising Talent section

Jeem by Hamza Bokhari

Collection: Ruzzkiy Kukly

Inspiration: The tale of a Babushka doll’s visit to Pakistan and the amalgamation of Russian and Pakistani cultures

Zarmisha Dar

Collection: Gullistan

Inspiration: A garden of roses

Maheen Taseer

Collection: Valiant

Inspiration: Traditional bridal elements with intense colours

Faiza Saqlain

Collection: The Regal Dawn

Inspiration: Elizabethan era and the detailing in their costumes and culture 

Published in The Express Tribune, September 2nd,  2015.

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