Eating out in Ramazan: Karachi offers a table full when it comes to Sehri

The Express Tribune explores the culture of eating out in the port city

KARACHI: The month that allows you to be patient and control your hunger also makes you crave the delicacies that the various food streets in the city offer.

“Karachi-ites have a very sophisticated palate and they are very particular about how their food tastes, even more so in Ramazan,” said Nida, a student who thinks of herself as a foodie and loves eating out. However, it was not until last year that she ventured out to Burnes Road for Sehri. “I was surprised at how many people were out at two in the morning.”



For those who can handle heavier meals to last them throughout the day, Burnes Road offers good options. Multiple restaurants in the old city area offer nihari, haleem, kebabs and biryani. You can make a stop at Waheed Kabab House, a nihari and kebab joint tucked away in Gali Number Do, right across from Dehli Rabri House. This kebab house has been offering its authentic nihari and dhagay walay kebab at Sehri for many years now.

“[The trend of] going out at Sehri is becoming bigger and bigger each Ramazan,” said Altamish Jiwa, 30. “I know kids stay up all night playing games and then going for Sehri but now, even adults are taking up more of these Sehri deals.”

He remembered how Pizza Hut used to be the only eating-out option during Ramazan when he was growing up in Karachi. “It was because of their all-you-can-eat deal,” he reasoned. “If I really have to recommend a place then it would be Pizza Hut. It is pure nostalgia.”

The crime levels in the city hardly deter its hardcore residents. “Going out at [that time of the night] presents a certain risk but most Karachi-ites don’t care about it,” said Batool, a working woman and a mother. For Batool, the idea of going out for Iftar is not too appealing. “Iftaris at home are more fun, especially all the homemade delicacies that we can have with family,” she said, adding that her family mostly eats out for Sehri and that too after Ramazan 10. “The roads and the [environment at] restaurants is calm at that time.”

In her opinion, Afridi Inn at Kolachi serves the best Sehri but it is open only till 2am. “Ideal, opposite Kaybees in Mohammad Ali Society, is another hotspot for low-budget Sehri,” she pointed out. “It serves till an hour before Fajr.”

Shandana Qureshi, 23, likes the fact that she doesn’t have to get too dressed up for Sehri outings. “It is more casual and naturally more fun if you can sacrifice your sleep,” she said, adding that Sehri plans are better as they are usually carried out with family or close friends.

The food street at Sindhi Muslim Society does thriving business during Ramazan. “We open in the late afternoon and close at Fajr,” said Raees Haider, a manager at Biryani Centre in the same area. “It is not just us but every major food outlet is open all night. People just need an excuse to go out and have good time.”

Every restaurant does have different times during the months when they start serving Sehri. “We start after the first ashura,” said Syed Aftab Gardezi, a manager at Royal Ice and Spice at Sindhi Muslim. “By that time, people are usually done with taraweeh and start Eid shopping.”



During the last 10 days of Ramazan, Gardazi admitted their employees hardly have time to finish their own Sehri. “Some customers stay till Fajr azaan and we have to attend to them.”

Boat Basin is another popular location for Sehri. Khyber Barbeque’s Abdur Rehman cannot even compare the hustle bustle they see during the holy month to any other time of the year. “People come to eat at my restaurant all year round but, in Ramazan, it is different. This place seems way more festive.”

Rehman’s neighbour, Muhammad Saleem, has also been running his outlet at Boat Basin for 22 years and recalls the food street being open all night. “It attracts more crowds for Iftar and Sehr because of its location,” he said. “It is safer compared to Burnes Road.”

Saleem takes Ramazan business very seriously. “We work even harder during Ramazan because we don’t want to ruin a customer’s roza,” he explained. “We always want our customers to leave satisfied. This is good for business and for our faith.”

Rehman shares the same spirit. “Sometimes a customer shows up at the very last minute and shares our staff’s meal. We never turn away our customers at Sehri.”

Published in The Express Tribune, June 19^th, 2015.