Discover Karachi
Continuing the quest to uncover the city’s unsung locations
The Crown Cinema which was once a source of entertainment for the poor man in the city now stands silent. PHOTOS :FAROOQ SOOMRO
The Karachi that most urban dwellers are familiar with is lined with high-rise buildings, fancy restaurants and upscale markets. This is in stark contrast to the diversity the metropolis has to offer. To bring to light some of the obscure city landmarks and attractions, blogger Farooq Soomro scratches the surface and unearths some of the city’s hidden or forgotten treasures that deserve a special mention.
A showstopper from the past
In a city that thrives on cinemas as one of its main sources of entertainment, the once packed Crown Cinema now lies lifeless in the heart of Karachi. Visible while crossing Mauripur Road, it screened its final show last year during Ramazan. Today, the cinema is a ghost of its former self, sheathed under a layer of dust and darkness. A charpoy greets one in the main hall followed by an empty mug on the ticket counter.
As one moves in further, you can see the main theatre lined with broken benches and the stage which is now in shambles. Although some of the projectors are still in working condition, frequent power failures over the years reduced profit margins considerably, forcing the cinema to go out of business. Unable to compete with the multiplexes that have sprung up in the city, this poor man’s source of entertainment is in much need of an overhaul.
A refreshing respite
Tucked in between concrete structures in the heart of Bhit Island, located on the Manora channel, is the unassuming Haji Malang Hotel — as it reads on a single menu hanging on the wall. But the small, wooden structure with ceramic canopy tiles has a charm of its own. The place is the desi equivalent of a pub and a hotspot for sailors and fishermen who hit the hotel to drown their exhaustion in a steaming hot cup of chai followed by chitchat and laughter over a plate of rustic chicken masala or a light omelette depending on the time of the day. At a distance from the glittery city distractions, it offers an honest, no-frills taste of Karachi.
Faithfully executed
Located along Temple Road, close to Nabi Bagh College, is the Ratan Talao Gurdwara. Today, the pre-Partition gurdwara — or whatever remains of it — acts as a reminder of Karachi’s peaceful times. The exterior may give you an impression that the structure is still in reasonable condition but a closer inspection reveals that it is practically inhabitable. The roof has caved in and the walls are weak. The floor is covered in shrubs and debris apart from a small patch of surviving Belgian tiles that once adorned the floors of many landmarks in the city. Perhaps the only thing that gives away the structure as being a gurdwara is the sacred symbol of Sikhs embossed on all four sides of the building.
Like the once flourishing Sikh community, the gurdwaras in the city, including the ones in Narayanpura, Ranchore Line and Manora, have seen better days. But until the city regains its measure of tolerance for minorities, the Ratan Talao Gurdwara will remain a fond memory from the past.
Farooq Soomro documents unexplored sites of Karachi on his blog thekarachiwalla.com. He tweets @thekarachiwalla
Published in The Express Tribune, Sunday Magazine, January 18th, 2015.
A showstopper from the past
In a city that thrives on cinemas as one of its main sources of entertainment, the once packed Crown Cinema now lies lifeless in the heart of Karachi. Visible while crossing Mauripur Road, it screened its final show last year during Ramazan. Today, the cinema is a ghost of its former self, sheathed under a layer of dust and darkness. A charpoy greets one in the main hall followed by an empty mug on the ticket counter.
As one moves in further, you can see the main theatre lined with broken benches and the stage which is now in shambles. Although some of the projectors are still in working condition, frequent power failures over the years reduced profit margins considerably, forcing the cinema to go out of business. Unable to compete with the multiplexes that have sprung up in the city, this poor man’s source of entertainment is in much need of an overhaul.
The Haji Malang Hotel on Bhit Island is a favourite among sailors and fishermen in the area, for a cup of chai and a quick snack. PHOTO: FAROOQ SOOMRO
A refreshing respite
Tucked in between concrete structures in the heart of Bhit Island, located on the Manora channel, is the unassuming Haji Malang Hotel — as it reads on a single menu hanging on the wall. But the small, wooden structure with ceramic canopy tiles has a charm of its own. The place is the desi equivalent of a pub and a hotspot for sailors and fishermen who hit the hotel to drown their exhaustion in a steaming hot cup of chai followed by chitchat and laughter over a plate of rustic chicken masala or a light omelette depending on the time of the day. At a distance from the glittery city distractions, it offers an honest, no-frills taste of Karachi.
The remains of the pre-Partition Ratan Talao Gurdwara on Temple Road in Karachi. PHOTO: FAROOQ SOOMRO
Faithfully executed
Located along Temple Road, close to Nabi Bagh College, is the Ratan Talao Gurdwara. Today, the pre-Partition gurdwara — or whatever remains of it — acts as a reminder of Karachi’s peaceful times. The exterior may give you an impression that the structure is still in reasonable condition but a closer inspection reveals that it is practically inhabitable. The roof has caved in and the walls are weak. The floor is covered in shrubs and debris apart from a small patch of surviving Belgian tiles that once adorned the floors of many landmarks in the city. Perhaps the only thing that gives away the structure as being a gurdwara is the sacred symbol of Sikhs embossed on all four sides of the building.
The Crown Cinema which was once a source of entertainment for the poor man in the city now stands silent. PHOTO :FAROOQ SOOMRO
Like the once flourishing Sikh community, the gurdwaras in the city, including the ones in Narayanpura, Ranchore Line and Manora, have seen better days. But until the city regains its measure of tolerance for minorities, the Ratan Talao Gurdwara will remain a fond memory from the past.
Farooq Soomro documents unexplored sites of Karachi on his blog thekarachiwalla.com. He tweets @thekarachiwalla
Published in The Express Tribune, Sunday Magazine, January 18th, 2015.