PLBW 2014 DAY1: Better play it unsafe than be sorry

With a few misses and even fewer hits, evening sets a bittersweet precedent for upcoming days

LAHORE: As the first day of the PFDC L’Oréal Paris Bridal Week (PLBW) 2014 went into fashion overdrive, we witnessed a myriad of trends and colours that are set to dictate the impending wedding season in Pakistan. From bridal wear to formal couture, the PLBW runway featured creations by five designer heavyweights.

While Sania Maskatiya led the pack, Karma failed to impress with a collection that was mediocre, at best. High-waisted shararas and pants were featured in nearly all the designer showcases. With a few misses and even fewer hits, the evening set a bittersweet precedent for the following two days.

Saira Shakira



“Love looks not with the eyes, but with the mind,” reads Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream. We disagree. Saira Shakira’s eponymously titled collection was high on visual appeal. The talented duo showcased deconstructed crop tops, lace pants, lehengas and kaftans with dabka kora, nakshi and thread work, using sheer fabrics and velvet trimmings. The colours ranged from blues to purples. Although the collection was cohesive and well-developed, the designers need to work on consistency and structure in their pieces. The prints did little to break the monotony of the apparel.

Hassan Sheheryar Yasin



HSY’s ‘Divine Decadence’ collection was the opening act of the evening. The collection was divided into two parts, ‘Divine’ and ‘Decadence.’ The ‘Divine’ half of the show featured experimental western cuts and silhouettes, focusing on hues, such as midnight blue and metallic silver. The cuts and embellishments were well-engineered, which, while staying true to HSY’s signature aesthetic, came with a twist. From statement jackets to peasant tops, this part of the collection exuded high fashion, leaving a mark on the ramp. The ‘Decadence’ half was resonant with Russia’s imperial House of Romanov. As much as the first half was thrilling, the second was a downer. Neither did the collars on red and gold bridal wear elevate the outfit, nor did they make an impact on the ramp. We wonder why he didn’t stick to the aquatic colour palette.

Sania Maskatiya



After debuting with her bridal collection at PLBW last year, Maskatiya brought a beautiful collection titled ‘Ara-Ornaments’ back to the ramp. Comprising gaara embroidery, resham, zardozi, gota, sequins and pearls on sheer nets paired with floral patterns and geometric prints, the collection was exquisite and had a high wearability quotient. But contrary to our expectations, Maskatiya played it safe with the cuts and silhouettes featured in her collection. The printed shawls and dupattas added depth to the collection, breaking the business of the heavily-embellished outfits. Her collection was testament to the fact that even if cuts are muted this season, embellishments will do the talking.

Karma Red



The longest show was ‘The Lotus Raj Collection’, which marked the end of the evening. The showcase comprised five capsule collections: the glamorous ‘RajKumari’, the magical ‘Uns’, the thakurani-inspired ‘Aatish’, the subcontinental ‘Saj Dhaj’, and the passion-driven ‘Raj’. While there were some pieces which were aesthetically pleasing, we wonder why Karma has become inert in terms of moving beyond embellishments, something they have been focusing on for the past decade. Perhaps, the best thing about the collection was the jhumkas worn by the models. The colour palette, which included hues such as dirty pink, was a let-down. The bridal jumpsuit, which was done in around four different styles, failed to work on the runway.

Asifa & Nabeel



Having drawn inspiration from the motifs and shades of jewellery worn by Meena Kumari in her films for their ‘Meena-Maniratna’ collection, Asifa & Nabeel offered a mishmash of designs — some good, some not so good. Depicting pearls, stones and chandi patti on gold and grey silk, organza and jamawar, the collection attempted to capture the regality that Kumari exuded. But while the design house aimed at creating a feel of old Bollywood glamour, it didn’t evolve beyond that. Although Asifa & Nabeel are known for their creative silhouettes, the collection offered nothing new, essentially making it a drag.

Watch a slideshow of pictures from day one here.

Published in The Express Tribune, October 2^nd, 2014.

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