South Asian weddings: The gold standard
Are heavy adornments an indication of your taste and stature?
It is common knowledge that a South Asian wedding is incomplete without ostentatious amounts of jewellery on display. Whether it is a part of the bride’s wedding trousseau, her mother’s designer outfit or gifts exchanged between the families, jewellery is an important aspect of any wedding.
In fact, one might argue that today’s wedding functions are but an opportunity for the affluent to show off their wealth, jewellery being the main outlet. Teekahs, jhoomars and thick sets of sonay ki chooriyan are just some things without which the bride wouldn’t look like a bride. After all, what would the larkay-waalay think if their bahu wasn’t adorned in the latest jewels from head to toe?
The past few years have experienced a shift in our cultural obsession with heavy wedding jewellery. As the global gold prices skyrocket, along with the other costs related to a wedding function, many women are now switching to silver or artificial, gold-plated jewellery for themselves. “What is the point of spending so much money on real jewellery when you can have the next best thing for so much cheaper,” says Sultana Khursheed, who is firmly against the concept of overspending on wedding jewellery. “I married off two daughters and both of them wore artificial sets on their weddings. No one can tell the difference!”
Artificial jewellery is the term used to describe jewellery made out of inexpensive, mass-produced materials and semi or non precious metals. Local bazaars are teeming with artificial bridal and non-bridal sets, being sold at surprisingly low prices owing to the inexpensive materials used in their making, such as beads, synthetic stones and base metals. Lucite, crystals and zirconia are some of the common elements used to make artificial jewellery.
Often referred to as costume jewellery, this type of jewellery comes in a large variety of designs, styles and colours to suit different tastes. “This is what makes artificial jewellery so convenient,” continues Sultana. “You can switch your designs in accordance with the latest fashion trends whereas real jewellery can’t be replaced so easily.” Costume jewellery pieces also require little care. Should the set begin to change colour, a quick polishing can reverse the effects.
What adds to the rising demand is the lack of safety in Pakistan, where stories of robberies and muggings are rife. Rubaab Akmal, a homemaker from Islamabad shares her experience saying that, “After I was robbed of the gold I received on my wedding; I decided never to invest in real jewellery again. At the most, I invest in gold-plated silver jewellery with real stones and that is good enough. No one can tell the difference!” Munazza Zia from Karachi agrees. “After I moved to Karachi with my husband, the first thing we did was get a locker in a nearby bank to keep my jewellery in. It’s been five years since and I have hardly even visited my locker! If need be, I just put on a pair of artificial earrings or a necklace to complete my look.” One must note that lockers are difficult to obtain nowadays, attainable largely via reference only.
Despite the current jewellery trends, however, there are many like Begum Arjumand who firmly believe in the appeal of real jewellery, saying, “Sona tau sona hee hota hai.” A grandmother from Faisalabad, Arjumand would settle for nothing less than real jewellery to send her granddaughter off. “Gold, diamonds and other gems are all investments for bad times,” she explains. “They can be liquidated instantly should the need arise. Not to mention, real jewellery acquires a certain sentimental value when one saves up to buy it or when a particular piece is passed down from one generation to another.” Perhaps that is why Arjumand gifted a maatha patti from her own wedding to her granddaughter, earlier this year.
“If constructed well, artificial jewellery can be hard to distinguish from genuine pieces,” says Farrukh Asmat, an expert who runs her own jewellery business from home. “The visual appearance of the precious metal is apparent on the surface which, if examined closely, can reveal its true quality.” Farrukh warns against the shortcomings of artificial jewellery, explaining that the coating on the metals can be scratched off easily, revealing copper, nickel or other low-end materials which do not fall in the category of precious metals. “Also, the polish is more likely to come off or fade much earlier in artificial jewellery than real. Some of these materials can irritate the skin and cause rashes as well,” adds Farrukh.
There is a social stigma surrounding most wedding-related fashions. “Log kiya kaheinge” encourages many families to spend copious amounts of money on branded outfits and grand jewellery sets that are more for showing off than financial security. Newlywed Saira Lodhi had to purchase authentic jewellery against her will, simply because her mother-in-law was wary of how her friends would react to artificial jewellery. “Personally, I would have preferred spending my money on my new home rather than buying gold which I have left in my bank locker,” confesses Saira. “But I can’t deny that Ammi was right. I remember several women came up to me at my wedding to have a closer look at my jewellery. Some of them even asked me how many tolay my bangles weighed, right there on stage! I would be lying if I said I wasn’t happy with my real set at that time.”
The custom of dowry that is prevalent across Pakistan adds to the pressure. “Contrary to popular belief, dowry isn’t just for the bride,” explains Naureen Qamar Ali, a jewellery enthusiast from Karachi. “It includes gifts for both the bride and the family she is going to. Many people actually ask for genuine, expensive things like cars and electronic appliances. My susraal asked that the jewellery I bring be completely real and my parents had no choice but to comply.” Of course, this increases the financial burden on the bride’s family who, more often than not, have to finance the wedding festivities as well. “It is unfair but the larki walay have no choice in the matter,” says Sultana. “Family feuds over dowry are a common occurrence, especially in rural Pakistan. Parents of the bride usually try to avoid such issues by accepting demands.”
The decision regarding what kind of jewellery to invest in depends largely on the taste and financial standing of the buyer. According to Farrukh, the quality of artificial jewellery varies from one retail outlet to another. “Where you purchase your material from can determine its quality greatly,” she explains. “Some big brands now offer beautiful, high-quality costume jewellery, complete with intricate detailing and semi-precious stones, etc. On the other hand, local malls offer low-end pieces which are much cheaper, not just in price but in quality as well.”
Regardless of whether one’s jewellery is genuine or not, what is important is that it should be pleasing to the eyes and comfortable to wear. “Comfort is crucial, especially when it comes to bridal jewellery,” advises Farrukh. “It will not matter if the set is real or artificial if you the wearer is constantly fidgeting with it.”
Published in The Express Tribune, Ms T, June 15th, 2014.
In fact, one might argue that today’s wedding functions are but an opportunity for the affluent to show off their wealth, jewellery being the main outlet. Teekahs, jhoomars and thick sets of sonay ki chooriyan are just some things without which the bride wouldn’t look like a bride. After all, what would the larkay-waalay think if their bahu wasn’t adorned in the latest jewels from head to toe?
The past few years have experienced a shift in our cultural obsession with heavy wedding jewellery. As the global gold prices skyrocket, along with the other costs related to a wedding function, many women are now switching to silver or artificial, gold-plated jewellery for themselves. “What is the point of spending so much money on real jewellery when you can have the next best thing for so much cheaper,” says Sultana Khursheed, who is firmly against the concept of overspending on wedding jewellery. “I married off two daughters and both of them wore artificial sets on their weddings. No one can tell the difference!”
Artificial jewellery is the term used to describe jewellery made out of inexpensive, mass-produced materials and semi or non precious metals. Local bazaars are teeming with artificial bridal and non-bridal sets, being sold at surprisingly low prices owing to the inexpensive materials used in their making, such as beads, synthetic stones and base metals. Lucite, crystals and zirconia are some of the common elements used to make artificial jewellery.
Often referred to as costume jewellery, this type of jewellery comes in a large variety of designs, styles and colours to suit different tastes. “This is what makes artificial jewellery so convenient,” continues Sultana. “You can switch your designs in accordance with the latest fashion trends whereas real jewellery can’t be replaced so easily.” Costume jewellery pieces also require little care. Should the set begin to change colour, a quick polishing can reverse the effects.
What adds to the rising demand is the lack of safety in Pakistan, where stories of robberies and muggings are rife. Rubaab Akmal, a homemaker from Islamabad shares her experience saying that, “After I was robbed of the gold I received on my wedding; I decided never to invest in real jewellery again. At the most, I invest in gold-plated silver jewellery with real stones and that is good enough. No one can tell the difference!” Munazza Zia from Karachi agrees. “After I moved to Karachi with my husband, the first thing we did was get a locker in a nearby bank to keep my jewellery in. It’s been five years since and I have hardly even visited my locker! If need be, I just put on a pair of artificial earrings or a necklace to complete my look.” One must note that lockers are difficult to obtain nowadays, attainable largely via reference only.
Despite the current jewellery trends, however, there are many like Begum Arjumand who firmly believe in the appeal of real jewellery, saying, “Sona tau sona hee hota hai.” A grandmother from Faisalabad, Arjumand would settle for nothing less than real jewellery to send her granddaughter off. “Gold, diamonds and other gems are all investments for bad times,” she explains. “They can be liquidated instantly should the need arise. Not to mention, real jewellery acquires a certain sentimental value when one saves up to buy it or when a particular piece is passed down from one generation to another.” Perhaps that is why Arjumand gifted a maatha patti from her own wedding to her granddaughter, earlier this year.
“If constructed well, artificial jewellery can be hard to distinguish from genuine pieces,” says Farrukh Asmat, an expert who runs her own jewellery business from home. “The visual appearance of the precious metal is apparent on the surface which, if examined closely, can reveal its true quality.” Farrukh warns against the shortcomings of artificial jewellery, explaining that the coating on the metals can be scratched off easily, revealing copper, nickel or other low-end materials which do not fall in the category of precious metals. “Also, the polish is more likely to come off or fade much earlier in artificial jewellery than real. Some of these materials can irritate the skin and cause rashes as well,” adds Farrukh.
There is a social stigma surrounding most wedding-related fashions. “Log kiya kaheinge” encourages many families to spend copious amounts of money on branded outfits and grand jewellery sets that are more for showing off than financial security. Newlywed Saira Lodhi had to purchase authentic jewellery against her will, simply because her mother-in-law was wary of how her friends would react to artificial jewellery. “Personally, I would have preferred spending my money on my new home rather than buying gold which I have left in my bank locker,” confesses Saira. “But I can’t deny that Ammi was right. I remember several women came up to me at my wedding to have a closer look at my jewellery. Some of them even asked me how many tolay my bangles weighed, right there on stage! I would be lying if I said I wasn’t happy with my real set at that time.”
The custom of dowry that is prevalent across Pakistan adds to the pressure. “Contrary to popular belief, dowry isn’t just for the bride,” explains Naureen Qamar Ali, a jewellery enthusiast from Karachi. “It includes gifts for both the bride and the family she is going to. Many people actually ask for genuine, expensive things like cars and electronic appliances. My susraal asked that the jewellery I bring be completely real and my parents had no choice but to comply.” Of course, this increases the financial burden on the bride’s family who, more often than not, have to finance the wedding festivities as well. “It is unfair but the larki walay have no choice in the matter,” says Sultana. “Family feuds over dowry are a common occurrence, especially in rural Pakistan. Parents of the bride usually try to avoid such issues by accepting demands.”
The decision regarding what kind of jewellery to invest in depends largely on the taste and financial standing of the buyer. According to Farrukh, the quality of artificial jewellery varies from one retail outlet to another. “Where you purchase your material from can determine its quality greatly,” she explains. “Some big brands now offer beautiful, high-quality costume jewellery, complete with intricate detailing and semi-precious stones, etc. On the other hand, local malls offer low-end pieces which are much cheaper, not just in price but in quality as well.”
Regardless of whether one’s jewellery is genuine or not, what is important is that it should be pleasing to the eyes and comfortable to wear. “Comfort is crucial, especially when it comes to bridal jewellery,” advises Farrukh. “It will not matter if the set is real or artificial if you the wearer is constantly fidgeting with it.”
Published in The Express Tribune, Ms T, June 15th, 2014.