LAHORE: On its third day, Pakistan Fashion Design Council Sunsilk Fashion Week (PFSW) had its fair share of highs and lows. Comprising two acts, with showcases by three designers in each, the evening offered a myriad of cuts and designs.
Opening the first act, Hussayn’s ‘Kaala Pani’ collection was all about dark glamour. The show opened with a dominatrix-styled outfit and transitioned into displaying black column and shift dresses. While the collection could be viewed as a Pakistani take on E L James’ novel Fifty Shades of Grey, the silhouettes were too simplistic. Hussayn’s line was a juxtaposition of dark hues and floral prints. Model Zara Peerzada closed the show in a dress with a faux braid made of glass.
The designer opened the second act with her ‘Ladakh Connection’, inspired by Kashmiri tribal culture. It comprised peasant blouses and wrap-around tops accented with Kashmiri embroidery. Maria B is mainly a retailer and, from a business point of view, her collection was sellable and practical. As far as design aesthetic is concerned, the collection was cohesive. The loose Kashmiri kurtas for men certainly stood out.
Republic by Omar Farooq
With light-linen suits and pastel colours, Republic by Omar Farooq put forth a clean and crisp collection titled ‘Back to the Roots’. The entire collection had a resort wear feel to it, both in terms of its colour palette and use of cropped pants. While some of the fittings lacked finesse, the collection exuded an understated, classy vibe. The most attention-grabbing element of the collection was the edgy shoes.
Body Focus Museum
The brand’s ‘Sartorial Philology and Deconstruction’ collection was a commentary on the conflict-inflicted areas of Pakistan. The design house chose simplistic cuts, but its bullet belts and Pashtun jewellery were pleasantly striking. The collection was tied together by the accessories. While the first half of the collection was lacklustre, the following wrap dresses and war zone-inspired prints were visually appealing. Overall, the collection cannot be classified as prêt, but glorified beachwear.
The design house’s ‘Karma ki Rajasthani Kahani’ collection blurred the line between luxury prêt and bridal wear. The collection had some beautiful pieces, but ghagra cholis don’t qualify as prêt wear and the collection would have been more suited for bridal week.
‘The Urban Jungle Collection’ by the designer was certainly the best one of the evening. Through the line, Azwer showcased her revamped artistic sensibilities. With fresh embroideries, geometric cutwork detailing and funky silhouettes, her collection stole the show. From butterfly detailing to reindeers and zebras, her designs were sophisticated yet bold. Wrap-dress kameezes and shorts with long, floor-skimming skirts were the highlight as far as cuts are concerned, and the newspaper-print cape with an embroidered parrot was the most versatile piece in the collection.
Published in The Express Tribune, April 14th, 2014.