Runway blues: Kamiar Rokni leaves fashionistas disillusioned
Designer’s collection was all about Brazilian culture, colours and styles.
Designer’s collection was all about Brazilian culture, colours and styles.
ISLAMABAD:
Bronzed up models with volume-filled crimped hair, walked down the ramp in vibrant dresses at Kamiar Rokni’s fashion show held on Friday at Serena Hotel. Making a comeback after a heel injury, Rokni’s Brazil-inspired line, Colours of Brazil, managed to bring out the exuberant essence of the country in a simple chic manner. Unfortunately, the 15-minute show was over before it even began.
The event was the result of a project initiated by the Brazilian embassy in 2011 — the embassy had invited Rokni, creative director of Verve Events Arsalan Khan (organiser of the event) along with others to visit Brazil and experience the country’s cultural life. The show was postponed due to timing and date issues and the collection which was created over a year ago, was a bit of a disappointment in today’s time. Coral and pastel colour-blocking on cotton was more of a ‘been there, done that’ style. With a few patterns thrown in occasionally, limited use of fabric and basic shift cuts, the cotton-based collection didn’t seem to pick up pace at any point.
Speaking about his collection, Rokni says it’s all about the ‘mix’ — the mix of European and African culture, the mix of Brazilian and Japanese culture and the mix of urban sophistication and natural beauty. These contrasts and collisions specifically inspired him. He further explains that the collection’s starting point was “mid-century modernism and from there, we move on to Bahia and the African influence and then, we end with a touch of nostalgia and an interpretation of the glamour that the name Brazil itself evokes.”
He feels he brought back lots of colour from his trip to Brazil. “Brazil has a vast range of swimwear which we don’t have,” he says, adding that he tried to incorporate that in his collection. “There is a touch of swimwear in each piece. It’s sexy in an elegant way.”
Apart from the actual collection, make-up and hair by Juju Haider, the creative director of Toni&Guy Islamabad, was a hit. Shimmery bronzer and volume-filled hair beamed inspiration and boldness of Brazilian fashion. The collection is supported by headpieces made in collaboration with Hashim Ali who has kept the same influence in mind — they’re also a nod to Japanese culture that is very much a part of Brazil.
Islamabad-based fashion designer Pashmina Ahmed of Plush wasn’t too impressed and wanted something more. She tells The Express Tribune that she had pictured the collection would be bursting with beautiful festive prints and colours. “There was no movement in this collection — no textures and no life,” she says regretfully, about the clothes which seemed to focus more on the ‘60s mod cuts. “I waited for the wow factor or a showstopper, but that never popped out. And the hair and bronzer seemed to be the main focus.” She was expecting a signature Kamiar Rokni show with unconventional detailing and beautiful embellishments. “But he didn’t show his craft off this time,” she adds.
Another member of the audience Sana Kalim expresses her grief, saying “I was expecting a line of flowy gowns, florals and corals which can be worn all year round in Pakistan. [But] it seems like he is still stuck in time.”
While the music was essential to keep the upbeat tone of the evening alive — traditional Brazilian Samba and Bossa Nova with electronic beats — the dull décor didn’t impress. Organised by the Brazilian embassy and Verve, the dimly lit room didn’t seem to follow the theme and was the opposite of what Brazilian embassy’s events are normally all about — festivities, bright colours and full of life. However, the hall was able to accommodate at least 400 people so there was ample room for fashionistas to gather, gossip and enjoy the show.
The collection was a couple of seasons old but with Bridal Week coming up, we hope Rokni strikes back with a bang!
Published in The Express Tribune, September 10th, 2013.
Bronzed up models with volume-filled crimped hair, walked down the ramp in vibrant dresses at Kamiar Rokni’s fashion show held on Friday at Serena Hotel. Making a comeback after a heel injury, Rokni’s Brazil-inspired line, Colours of Brazil, managed to bring out the exuberant essence of the country in a simple chic manner. Unfortunately, the 15-minute show was over before it even began.
The event was the result of a project initiated by the Brazilian embassy in 2011 — the embassy had invited Rokni, creative director of Verve Events Arsalan Khan (organiser of the event) along with others to visit Brazil and experience the country’s cultural life. The show was postponed due to timing and date issues and the collection which was created over a year ago, was a bit of a disappointment in today’s time. Coral and pastel colour-blocking on cotton was more of a ‘been there, done that’ style. With a few patterns thrown in occasionally, limited use of fabric and basic shift cuts, the cotton-based collection didn’t seem to pick up pace at any point.
Speaking about his collection, Rokni says it’s all about the ‘mix’ — the mix of European and African culture, the mix of Brazilian and Japanese culture and the mix of urban sophistication and natural beauty. These contrasts and collisions specifically inspired him. He further explains that the collection’s starting point was “mid-century modernism and from there, we move on to Bahia and the African influence and then, we end with a touch of nostalgia and an interpretation of the glamour that the name Brazil itself evokes.”
He feels he brought back lots of colour from his trip to Brazil. “Brazil has a vast range of swimwear which we don’t have,” he says, adding that he tried to incorporate that in his collection. “There is a touch of swimwear in each piece. It’s sexy in an elegant way.”
Apart from the actual collection, make-up and hair by Juju Haider, the creative director of Toni&Guy Islamabad, was a hit. Shimmery bronzer and volume-filled hair beamed inspiration and boldness of Brazilian fashion. The collection is supported by headpieces made in collaboration with Hashim Ali who has kept the same influence in mind — they’re also a nod to Japanese culture that is very much a part of Brazil.
Islamabad-based fashion designer Pashmina Ahmed of Plush wasn’t too impressed and wanted something more. She tells The Express Tribune that she had pictured the collection would be bursting with beautiful festive prints and colours. “There was no movement in this collection — no textures and no life,” she says regretfully, about the clothes which seemed to focus more on the ‘60s mod cuts. “I waited for the wow factor or a showstopper, but that never popped out. And the hair and bronzer seemed to be the main focus.” She was expecting a signature Kamiar Rokni show with unconventional detailing and beautiful embellishments. “But he didn’t show his craft off this time,” she adds.
Another member of the audience Sana Kalim expresses her grief, saying “I was expecting a line of flowy gowns, florals and corals which can be worn all year round in Pakistan. [But] it seems like he is still stuck in time.”
While the music was essential to keep the upbeat tone of the evening alive — traditional Brazilian Samba and Bossa Nova with electronic beats — the dull décor didn’t impress. Organised by the Brazilian embassy and Verve, the dimly lit room didn’t seem to follow the theme and was the opposite of what Brazilian embassy’s events are normally all about — festivities, bright colours and full of life. However, the hall was able to accommodate at least 400 people so there was ample room for fashionistas to gather, gossip and enjoy the show.
The collection was a couple of seasons old but with Bridal Week coming up, we hope Rokni strikes back with a bang!
Published in The Express Tribune, September 10th, 2013.