From kaftaans to kimonos, Indonesian designer believes in conservative fashion

Itang Yunasz promotes Muslim attire for women across the globe.

ISLAMABAD:

Draped in silk kaaftans with their hair rolled up in turbans, models at Journey Through Colours — a fashion show featuring fashion designer Itang Yunasz’s latest collection — were all ready to walk the ramp at Serena Hotel in the capital city on Sunday evening.

The leading Indonesian designer, who believes in promoting conservative attire for the Muslim woman, revealed his ideology and collection of loose-fitted clothes as models covered from head to toe walked across the ramp with only their face, hands and feet revealed.

“Clothes do not have to be transparent or clung to the body to be fashionable,” Yunasz told The Express Tribune. “International trends can be merged into more conservative styles and look [just] as good.” With over 30 years of experience, this designer has been regarded as a pioneer of the Indonesian fashion industry and with his modern, elegant and contemporary designs for both men and women, he successfully showcased his work across the globe including USA, UAE, Malaysia and Egypt.

In extended celebrations of the 68th anniversary of Independence of the Republic of Indonesia, an exclusive gathering came to witness Yunasz’s collection who visited Pakistan for the first time.

Designer feels Pakistan’s fashion is inspired by the West and such clothing is only worn by a small segment in society. PHOTO: MYRA IQBAL

Speaking about the fashion scene in Pakistan, Yunasz gave his honest opinion. Observing that there’s no middle class in the country, he said, “It’s either the rich or the poor and designers need to cater to the more conservative segments of society.” He feels that Pakistani designers are more inclined towards Western-inspired cuts and attire which is worn only by a small segment in society.

Yunasz, who has been participating in Islamic fashion weeks for the past few years, revealed that outfits suitable for Muslims, are picking up popularity across the world. “There is great talent and potential in Pakistani designers [in order] to grow internationally,” he added. “Us, as Muslim countries, with our rich cultural heritage and history, need to give back to the world.”



Walking down the ramp

Titled Flower and Hakokai Butterfly, his latest Batik collection featured kaaftans, kimonos and abayas. On black, white and brown patterned fabric, large coral flowers were printed; and while the fusion of patters and splash of colours make the print look a bit busy, the cuts and different styles of kaaftans could turn out to be a desirable piece for some.

The hand-woven fabrics were inspired by the Middle East while some pieces seemed Bohemian-influenced with silk and chiffon as the main ingredients. However, the loose non-clingy fabric’s beauty was enhanced by pleats on the front and back and when paired with printed harem pants and leggings, Yunasz’s conservative thoughts were enhanced keeping in mind latest styles.

Other than these materials, he also uses traditional hand-woven fabrics found in regions of Indonesia including East Nusa Tenggara, West Nusa Tenggara and Bali, as well as chiffon-printed songket, a material made in Palembang.

Burhan Muhammad, ambassador of the Republic of Indonesia, was also present at the event which he said served the purpose of showcasing the uniqueness and diversity of the Indonesian culture. The fashion show was followed by cultural performances where traditional dances Sojojo and Saman were proudly presented. Muhammad, who was filled with high spirit and patriotism, also took the lead and performed with the live band on stage where a medley of traditional instruments were infused with vocal performances and mystical tones of the Angklung — musical instrument which originated in Indonesia and is made of two bamboo tubes attached to a bamboo frame.

Recalling Pakistan’s support during Indonesia’s independence, the ambassador said, “Tonight, we are celebrating common struggles and friendship with our brotherly Pakistan.”

Published in The Express Tribune, August 21^st, 2013.

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