Bulbul Jan, also known as the king of polo

“Polo is now a rich man’s game because unlike earlier, a common man can’t afford to raise a horse anymore.”

Bulbul Jan lives in a house full of trophies, certificates, photographs with celebrities and dignitaries and was recently included in the list that will be awarded the Sitara-e-Imtiaz next year.

Incidentally, he’s also known for his love for polo, the game of kings – Jan has been nicknamed King of Polo – and holds the record of bagging the most man-of-the-match awards at the Shandur Festival. Now in his early 60s, Jan started playing polo in 1979 but lamented the lack of interest in the sport from the general public as well as the government.

“Polo is now a rich man’s game because unlike earlier, a common man can’t afford to raise a horse anymore,” said Jan. “The sport is also dying because it lacks state patronage. Only teams backed by state institutions survive.”

Jan doesn’t play the sport anymore but is involved in coaching local teams and his two sons. Jan took up the sport because a foot injury cut short his football career, and he formed the Jan club with his friends. Then, he had no idea that six years later he will be asked to join the Pakistan Army team and go on to become world famous.

“In the six years that I played locally, we won a lot of matches and I became president of the sports association in Gilgit. But then came my lucky break with the army and I captained the Northern Light Infantry team for two decades. I wanted to be a footballer but I’m glad the injury forced me to choose polo.”

With time – as well as dedication and luck – Jan enjoyed success on and off the field. He played all over Pakistan, even in Dubai once, and was rewarded accordingly. According to Jan, he got a Rs 15,000 monthly stipend when he was with the infantry team as well as various plots from the government, acknowledging all those who helped him along the way.

“I trained soldiers who have now become generals. When they come here, they come to me and pay their respect, ” said Jan before adding that when General Pervez Kayani visited the Gayari sector to oversee relief work, he stopped in Gilgit for dinner where Jan was invited too.


“Besides the army officials, I’ve also taught hundreds of locals and am deeply indebted to God for the respect I'm given.”

And locals say that Jan is perhaps one of the most respected people in Gilgit.

“I’ve been featured in several documentaries in different languages. There is a writer who met me a few years ago, travelling from France to meet me after he had seen my photos in polo clubs around the world.”

As he works hard to keep the sport alive, Jan is not happy with the falling number of visitors, including the foreigners, who not only appreciate the sport but are also keen learners.

“We used to have foreigners who would come tell me they have come to see the kind of polo we play here. But ever since 9/11, there has been a drop in the numbers and that’s an alarming sight.

“The government must look into attracting an international audience and reviving polo. It can help change the image of Pakistan.”

Published in The Express Tribune, September 2nd, 2012. 
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