Sustainable fashion for Pakistan: a tipping point?

Pakistan's fashion and textile industry stands at the epicenter of its economy, representing around 8.5% of the nation's national GDP and providing work to almost 45% of the total workforce. As the eighth largest textile exporter in Asia, Pakistan's apparel and textile industry is the prime growth impeller, with textile exports during the 2024 fiscal year standing at $16.55 billion. The amount registers an increase of a mere 0.93% from the preceding fiscal year. Of them, readymade garments, bedwear and knitwear saw sudden spurts, with the readymade garment exports alone increasing 20% year-on-year during December 2024. Textiles represent nearly 54.5% of the nation's total exports, illustrating the economy's contribution made by the sector.

With the world's attention now shifting to environmental sustainability, Pakistan's fashion industry stands at a turning point. The traditional fast fashion model — characterised by quick turnaround production cycles, cheap production and quick-speed style changeover — is increasingly under fire for driving environmental degradation and worker exploitation. The industry is responsible for approximately 10% of carbon emissions worldwide and almost 20% of total wastewater generated worldwide. Bulk production of clothing is susceptible to over-use of natural resources, high energy usage and chemical pollution, all of which drive the effects of climate change and threaten biodiversity. In the case of nations such as Pakistan, where industry remains resource-intensive, the need for change towards sustainability has never been greater.

In reaction to these international changes, the slow fashion movement has increasingly gained momentum. This movement calls for quality rather than quantity, favouring ethical production processes, fair labour and sustainable materials. In Pakistan, several indigenous brands and designers are beginning to implement these principles, setting themselves up to address the evolving global standards.

For example, there is a brand which collaborates closely with rural artisans in Chitral, preserving traditional embroidery and craftsmanship methods while ensuring workers' fair wages. Artisans working for this brand are said to earn between Rs5,000 and Rs20,000 monthly, providing a sizeable source of livelihood for marginalised communities. Additionally, the brand actively supports community development projects like healthcare and education, setting an example that seamlessly combines cultural preservation with economic empowerment.

In the same vein, some socially conscious brands have built their business models on ethical sourcing, collaboration with artisans and transparent production chains. Such brands make sure their artisans receive higher-than-average wages, involve them in decision-making and strive to reduce environmental impact through the use of locally sourced materials and low-waste production. In linking local craftsmanship with global consumers, they disrupt the exploitative nature of the global fast fashion system and provide a more human-focused alternative.

However, the responsibility of taking sustainable fashion to scale in Pakistan rests heavily on some factors. At the top of the list of challenges is the textile sector's reliance on traditional cotton, a crop that consumes enormous amounts of water and chemical fertilisers. Climate change occurrences, including the disastrous 2022 floods, have exposed the sector's vulnerability, ravaging cotton crops and supply chains across the country.

The floods caused over $30 billion in losses to agriculture and textile production. Furthermore, most textile mills lack the proper technology and infrastructure to carry out cleaner, energy-efficient manufacturing. The transition to sustainable practices demands enormous investments — an endeavour small- and medium-scale businesses, which dominate most of the Pakistan's industry, may struggle to access.

Another urgent concern is the gap between local reality and global sustainability commitments. Major global fashion retailers headquartered in Pakistan have committed to achieving tough environmental goals. However, numerous suppliers, especially those in South Asia, have considered them impossible without sufficient financial investment or technical expertise. More than 40 of the world's largest suppliers have already signaled that they cannot achieve climate goals, which shows a systemic gap between global ambition and ground-level capacity. For Pakistan's native producers and designers, this shows the importance of developing local standards and certifications that are pragmatic and locally relevant.

For Pakistan to achieve this opportunity in full, a multi-stakeholder approach is required. Sustainability must be included in every step of designers' business models. Investors and development agencies can prioritise investment in green technology, sustainable cotton initiatives and capacity building for small enterprises. Government policies can offer incentives like tax relief for sustainable approaches and penalties for environmental non-compliance.

Consumer awareness campaigns are also essential, shifting demand towards responsible brands and inducing pressure for industrial change. While the journey will be tough, the convergence of Pakistan's economic reliance on textiles, its craft heritage and a growing international demand for ethical fashion is a golden opportunity. Upcoming designers, by focusing on creativity, integrity and a dedication to sustainability, not only can revolutionise Pakistan's fashion identity but also redefine the global fashion industry towards a more sustainable and equitable future.