Actor Jason Momoa has described a near-drowning incident while surfing in Hawaii that left him fighting for survival and ultimately led to a major lifestyle change.
Speaking on the Smartless podcast, the Aquaman star said the incident occurred during a miles-long paddle starting at Pe’ahi, Maui, known as Jaws.
Momoa explained that around seven miles into the route, his leash snapped in strong winds. At the time, he was nearly a mile offshore.
“I took quite a few on the head… like 10-foot Hawaiian waves,” Momoa said, recalling that he ended up on the outer reef without realising it, unable to be seen by others in his group.
His thoughts turned to his then three-month-old daughter, Lola Iolani, as fatigue set in. “My body stopped… I literally gave up,” he said.
A fellow surfer eventually located him, but the pair still faced strong currents and large waves that cost them both their boards.
Momoa described paddling the remaining seven miles with his feet bleeding, drawing strength from his ancestors until they reached shore.
The experience, Momoa said, had a lasting impact. A long-time smoker, he stopped immediately after the incident, explaining that even previous attempts for his children and family had failed. “The moment I came out, I never smoked again,” he said.
Momoa also recalled filming near the lava fields of Kalapana for Apple TV+’s Chief of War, where he predicted volcanic activity before an eruption of Kīlauea.
“You’re obviously stirring up a lot of spirits and mana,” he said, describing the atmosphere as charged yet positive.
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