25 years of Sabyasachi

KARACHI:

While Sabyasachi Mukherjee has long been a name synonymous with opulence, the challenge of staying relevant in an era where restraint often gets more applause than grandeur isn't a small one. His work has always been about excess: the embroidery that seems to defy the limits of detail, the textiles so lush they verge on decadent, the unapologetic indulgence in India's cultural heritage. But after 25 years, how do you keep the magic alive without tipping into self-parody?

The Indian designer marked his silver jubilee at the Jio World Centre in Mumbai on January 25. The stakes were high - not just for the brand, but for Sabyasachi himself. And if there were any doubts about his ability to pull it off, they were silenced the moment guests entered a space transformed into his fantasy of excess. But did he pull it off?

A sea of black

With a strictly black dress code, Sabyasachi's evening featured various A-listers in attendance, but three looks stood out. Bollywood sweetheart Alia Bhatt graced the celebrations in a black silk sari - flowing and rich, it exudes that classic charm you'd expect from Sabyasachi. But it's the bralette-style blouse that truly sets the tone for something more modern and sultry. Heavily embellished with sequins, stones, and metallic threads, it adds just the right amount of shimmer, contrasting beautifully with the simplicity of the sari. It's effortless— soft hair pulled back, minimal but impactful jewellery, and makeup that's focused on glowing skin and soft eyes. Alia has this way of making it look so easy with a personal style that manages to speak the language of minimalism without sacrificing the richness of tradition.

Meanwhile, Ananya Panday stepped into the ring with a beautiful marriage of playful youthfulness and sophisticated detail. Her black retro-themed dress delighted in its polka dot pattern, scattered across the sheer fabric in varying sizes. A high neckline, punctuated by a substantial bow, adds just the right amount of sophistication to an otherwise fresh silhouette.

Delicate and daring, the balloon sleeves, gathered at the wrists, play up the romanticism of it all, yet they still manage to retain a lightness that makes the look feel effortless. The mini length, contrasted with the fullness of the sleeves and the high neck, gives the ensemble a playful but poised feel. Metallic heels peeked through sheer black stockings, adding a subtle gleam to the ensemble, while the white Chanel sling bag was the perfect touch of contrast.

Contrary to Ananya's something old, Sonam Kapoor relished in a decidedly risky outfit. Her all-black ensemble consisted of a fitted pencil skirt and top, sleek and structured, playing foundation for the oversized feather-adorned jacket that brings the drama. The silhouette is still sharp, but there's a sense of movement, of theatre, that only Sonam could pull off. And that choker necklace? It's an opulent statement piece, glimmering with intricate detail, drawing the eye straight to her décolletage in a way that feels regal and powerful.

Man of the hour

The night may not have witnessed some radical rebirth of the designer's brand DNA, but it featured him at his truest. Sabyasachi offered an unabashed homage to his hometown of Calcutta. Over six months in the making, the collection was, as he himself noted, a tribute to the women who shaped his vision: his grandmothers, Coco Chanel, Frida Kahlo, and even Madonna.

What followed was a parade of 157 looks - a sumptuous reimagining of traditional Indian craftsmanship through a contemporary lens. A cascade of oversized tweed pieces, intricate minidresses, voluminous skirts, and richly patterned jackets made a delectable impression. Opulence was at the heart of it all, with plush faux fur accents, semi-precious gems embedded in outerwear, and dramatic layers of jewellery elevating each outfit. Bold T-shirts featuring sparkling slogans like "Where Has the Love Gone" and "Please Stay" added a playful twist to the collection.

Deepika Padukone opened the show, marking her appearance on the runway since the birth of her daughter, Dua. An oversized white trench coat, with its wide, dramatic lapels, the languid drop of the shoulders and voluminous sleeves - all markers of an indulgently oversized look. While the night was ruled by black and accents of stone, gold, and sparkles, Deepika carried the colour only in her accessories in an otherwise all-white ensemble. Black leather gloves extending past the wrists coupled with an intellectual flair of black-rimmed glasses.

Let's not forget the jewellery, which seemed to float around her neck in multiple layers - an ornate cross pendant paired with vintage goldtone pieces, with dark stone details, adding an air of rich sophistication. Beneath it all, the white shirt with a deep V-neckline is the perfect backdrop to showcase statement jewellery. If there is something of managed chaos in Deepika's look, nowhere is that principle more conspicuous than in her elaborate updo - sculptural and vintage in its essence - that brings the whole look together.

'Not just Sabyasachi'

Christy Turlington Burns closed the show in a simple black turtleneck and cream trousers, effortlessly elevated by an avalanche of pearls, cuffs, and crosses.

In an interview with Elle, Linda Fargo of Bergdorf Goodman - one of the many international guests who flew in for the occasion - noted, "Not only were we drawn to the beauty, but we also have nothing like this in our Western world. I said to Sabya: 'You are not just Sabyasachi. You are a representative and an emissary. There is a lot on your shoulders.'"

It's a sentiment the man of the hour himself didn't seem to take lightly, even as he moved through the evening with his signature calm. Greeting his guests personally before the show and later reflecting on the collection, he mused, "It's a shock and a surprise for many people who thought this would be a bridal collection… We're really planning for global expansion, especially in our jewellery and accessory lines, which are growing. I am enjoying myself. I'm happy about it all."

And if last night was any indication, the world had better be ready.