In the shadow of sacred trees

“As devotees of the Malan Devi, a Hindu Goddess, we do not use wood from the Rohiro (tecomella undulata) tree for anything like to light a fire or to build homes or to make furniture,” says 59-year-old Ambo Rajput. “We also do not sleep in a bed made out of Rohiro or sit in a chair made out of it because this wood is supposed to be holy for us. We consider cutting down Rohiro trees and killing peacocks as major sins.”

Another unique aspect about these followers of Malan Devi, is that their houses or guest rooms are devoid of doors and windows and they do not use bricks to build their houses. Instead they use clay and any other type of wood but not wood from the Rohiro tree, which is known as the saintly tree in Tharparkar.

Ambo spoke to us as we sat talking with him in his village Gomani Ji Dhani, near village Haryar which is approximately 27 km away from Mithi city in the east; the district headquarters of Tharparkar.

We sat under the shade of the Koonbhat tree [Acacia Senegal], overlooking sandy dunes below us. Behind us, under another Koonbhat tree, sat a big clay pot filled with water for peacocks and other birds. In front of us was Ambo’s guesthouse with wooden walls as he had not used bricks and cement for constructing it. The table in front of us was also wooden.

“This is only my temporary house for the rainy season,” he shared, pointing to our surroundings. “I move here temporarily because my fertile land is here. My original village is Haryar, where all my relatives and family members live. Before the rainy season, I arrive and prepare my land for cultivation, and after the harvest, I return to Haryar.”

After a hearty discussion about Malan Devi, we left Ambo’s village and walked downwards over the sandy dunes, passing through the Koonbhat, Jar (salvadora oleoides) and Rohiro, trees, indigenous to Tharparkar.

We spotted another specially constructed water and grain arrangement for peacock and other birds. The birds were gathered there, some enjoying a noisy pecking of bajra (millet), while some were busy in a dance or two. We took some pictures of the peacocks and got in our car to head to our next destination, the village of Haryar.

Haryar, approximately 17 km away from Gumani Ji Dhani village, is inhabited by people of different castes such as Rajput, Kumbhar, Menghwar, Bheel, Kolhi, Mahraj, and Nai. They are all followers of Malan Devi.

As we entered the village, an excited flock of peacocks crossed in front of our car, and some partridges flew past. What a wonderful welcome this was! A herd of cattle calmly rested under a Koonbhat tree. The village’s natural vibe was overwhelmingly calm and joyous.

Peacocks are an essential part of every household, cherished and cared for as beloved family members. As we walked around the village, we could see some peacocks nestling around in the bushes while some were wandering around the courtyards, amidst little girls carrying firewood home. As though to not disturb the peace, a camel or donkey cart would slowly drudge past carrying loads of firewood or bags of harvested grain. The calm in Haryar was refreshing and addictive.

The village of Haryar has three different temples, but the main temple in the Jaga Rajput colony is the first Malan Devi temple in Pakistan.

“This temple was initially made with wood and bushes, but some years ago we reinforced it with bricks and cement and also made a door in the temple,” said 70-year-old Ambo Jago Bhupo. “After this one, all temples in the village were constructed with bricks and cement.

“Some time ago, the Muslims of this region such as the Kumbhars and Manganhars were also followers of Malan Devi,” revealed Ambo. “Later a mosque was constructed the Kumbhars in their colony and they don’t follow Malan Devi anymore. The Muslim women can be seen wearing ornaments on their feet, a practice which is prohibited for followers of Malan Devi. Muslims of this village also eat chicken, whereas it is prohibited for the followers of Malan Devi.

Bhopu took us out for a walk through the village and we saw the uniquely constructed homes of Haryar built without doors and windows, with wooden walls and roofs are made with bushes and leaves. Many villagers walked to and fro carrying water from wells on donkey and camels.

“Our village is slowly changing because the government has begun to construct buildings using bricks and cement,” Ambo explains. “People have also started doing the same so now the village will gradually transform.”

Later, we saw that the Malan Devi temples have also been refurbished using bricks and cement, and the mosque in Kumbhar colony as well. Another mosque is under construction.

The followers of Malan Devi celebrate the annual festival on the 14th of Mag, which is a Sindhi calendar month. A huge crowd of followers gathers in the temple, sings bhajans and sacrifices goats as part of the festivities. Some followers and their families stay at the temple for a night or two.

Every three years, the festival is celebrated on a grander scale. On this occasion, a wooden box housed in the Jaga temple is ceremoniously opened, revealing the revered statue of Malan Devi. Devotees gather to pay their respects to the golden sculpture.

The Jaga temple is located 2 or 3 km north of the village. Buildings are specially constructed here for devotees who stay here for the festival. We saw little cradles hanging in the Jar Tree in front of the temple. These cradles are placed on the branches by childless mothers who make a wish for being blessed with a child.

Inside the temple, some stone walls have inscriptions and paintings.

“Malan Devi is said to be buried in Janro, a village in Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India,” said the pujari (priest) of the temple. “I am Jago Rajput. All Jago Rajput castes are followers of Malan because we are from her family. “I visited that temple in Janro. In Jaisalmer, the Khumbar Muslims are also followers of Malan Devi. As her followers, they do not ride horses and do not rear buffaloes at home.”

As we left the Malan Devi temple after our chat with the pujari, several questions sparked in our minds. In a few years, the village will be transformed because villagers have started constructing their housing with bricks and cement, so it may be possible that within a few years all houses will be converted to cement and brick, and people belonging to different faith and following will dwell here. Let’s hope that the calm persists, religious harmony prevails and the peacocks of peace continue to flock here.

Khalid Kumbhar is a freelance contributor

All facts and information are the sole responsibility of the writer