Year of the nine yards

KARACHI:

Think about how many times this year you've read "Mahira Khan's top saree moments" splashed across a page or phone screen. You've probably lost count. And who can blame you—or the poor souls who compile these lists—since 2024 has indeed been the year of the saree.

But before you roll your eyes and say, "Isn't every year the year of the saree?" let me stop you right there. Yes, sarees have existed longer than your grandmother's wedding jewellery, but this year, they've been worn, styled, and celebrated in ways that feel distinctly fresh.

Blame it on Alia Bhatt if you must. In July last year she reignited the everyday saree craze with Rocky Aur Rani Kii Prem Kahani in which her character paraded around offices, bazaars, and her living room draped in sarees that had women digging out their heirloom pieces to transform into casual wear. The trend inevitably bled into 2024 with people taking their sweet time to catch up. After all, us Pakistanis weren't able to watch the film until its release on Prime Video in September. But no harm done – after all sarees are considered timeless.

Draped in culture

But it's not just celebrities I'm basing these bold claims on. Out in the wild, if you pay close attention while attending the gajillion weddings taking place this month, you will witness the fact that people are leaning towards the garment more than ever before. I myself cornered my unassuming grandmother and forced her to open up her treasure trove of sarees that have been collecting dust and moth holes since the '50s. She has silks, chiffons, florals, block prints – name it and it's there. So, I pinched a few, slapping a "vintage" label on if anyone asked.

Historically speaking, the saree has always been an emblem of timelessness. As per National Geographic, its origins trace back to the Indus Valley Civilisation, where it began as a simple cotton drape dyed in indigo, turmeric, and madder red. Over centuries, it evolved into regional masterpieces—Banarasi silks, Mysore weaves, and block-printed chiffons. Colonial influence brought synthetic dyes and mass production, but the saree remained a deeply personal garment, shaped by the wearer and their culture.

Fast-forward to 2024, and we're witnessing the saree remix era. Pant sarees, sarees paired with crisp button-down shirts, sarees styled with sneakers—there's no rulebook anymore. Mahira, ever the fashion chameleon, seems to have tried every iteration of this nine-yard wonder. From breezy chiffon numbers ideal for Karachi's stifling heat to opulent bridal ensembles dripping in hand-embroidery, Mahira has become the unofficial ambassador of the saree revival.

Her pink Zara Shahjahan floral saree in June was deceptively casual—until you noticed the intricate gold border elevating the look. Later in October, she turned heads in a grey-to-black ombré silk saree, paired with a minimalist black sleeveless blouse. Ayeza Khan, too, joined the party, debuting a saree on Eid with a pink and yellow floral blouse—an unconventional but playful choice for the holiday.

But the most exciting saree moment came from Sanam Saeed, who perhaps received the memo earlier than others and entered into the year with a deep burgundy shimmery saree paired with a dramatic black blouse.

The Mughal comeback

The saree isn't the only traditional garment making a comeback this year. The peshwaz, introduced during Babar's reign in order to preserve his Persian culture, was once worn by Mughal royals. This garment can be described as a tunic and is comprised of a fitted bodice and skirt. Similar to a robe, it was worn and tied at the waist according to many sources including The Victoria and Albert Museum Archives. At times, there were transparent layers of soft muslin cloth that were used to create a layered and textured look while, at other times, women were required to wear cholis under the garment since it was designed in a way that opened in the front.

Historically worn with churidars and heavily embroidered dupattas, the modern iteration has loosened up a little. Today, you'll find them paired with relaxed gharara pants, flared trousers, or even casual pyjamas.

Sanam Saeed once again hops on the trend, or perhaps IS the trend as she has shown us not one, not two, but three noteworthy peshwaz looks this year. Her love affair with the style started in September as she wore a striking coral coloured Ansab Jahangir Studio piece. Later that month, she switched gears with a sleeveless Sania Maskatiya piece in shades of pink and blue. By November, the Barzakh actor was at it again—this time in a powder-pink ensemble with lace detailing, pearl embellishments, and crushed gharara pants.

The holiday hero

If sarees and peshwazes are the stars of traditional wear, maxi dresses have quietly become the vacation uniform of 2024. Long, flowy, and forgiving in all the right places, the maxi dress has transcended its Western origins to become a wardrobe staple for Pakistanis on holiday.

Ayeza Khan kicked off summer with a sage-green dress that married structure and softness—it looked like a tailored suit jacket on top but cascaded into a voluminous skirt below. In July, she swapped the polished look for something more casual with a blue-and-white printed number that puffed and cuffed in all the right places.

During the same month, across the globe, Mehwish Hayat approached the maxi dress with a little more formality. She opted for a pink number that tied at the neck and cuffed at the wrist. It cinched at the waist to give a flattering look before pooling out at the waist. Meanwhile, Iqra Aziz closed out the year with a peachy-beige maxi dress look this week. It was smocked at the bodice and flared in layers below making for a picture-perfect moment when mid twirl.

What makes 2024's fashion landscape so exciting isn't just the return of timeless garments – it's the way people are wearing them. There's a newfound freedom, an irreverence for traditional rules. A saree can be worn with boots. A peshwaz can be worn with anything under. A maxi dress can be styled for a casual brunch or an intimate wedding reception. The lines between occasion wear and casual wear have blurred—thankfully so.