Understanding Your Lip Shape: A Guide to Identifying and Enhancing Your Natural Pout

Unlock a world of beauty possibilities

Knowing your lip shape can be surprisingly beneficial. Did you know there are different types of lip shapes? For a long time, I didn’t either, but identifying yours can serve as an invaluable beauty resource.

Just as understanding undertones for lipstick shades or color seasons can help when choosing hair dye, recognizing your lip shape offers clear guidelines for which makeup techniques and cosmetic procedures will best enhance your features. This is especially vital for anyone considering lip fillers; contrary to popular belief, it’s not advisable to simply copy a celebrity’s lips onto your own face. Not everyone is suited for ultra-full lips.

Patients are beginning to understand that you can’t just “borrow” someone else's lips with a quick cosmetic fix. Consequently, cosmetic surgeons are seeing a shift away from trend-driven requests toward a focus on the specific lip characteristics that clients admire.

Most common requests revolve around achieving certain lip proportions, typically asking for a 1:2, 1:1, or sometimes a 2:1 ratio between the upper and lower lips. This is where the various lip types come into play, often inspired by stars like Angelina Jolie or Rihanna, who are known for their well-defined and voluptuous lips. However, enhancing lip shapes with cosmetic procedures requires precision and varies based on the type of lips you're starting with.

Rihanna and Angelina Jolie (Images: Reuters)

Ultimately, not everyone is meant to have the same lip shape as their favorite celebrity or influencer. Before you attempt to emulate that perfect pout, it's essential to get acquainted with your own.

Below, you'll find everything you need to know about lip shapes—from identifying yours to the best tips for enhancement, as explained by cosmetic surgeons and makeup artists.

Remember: all lip shapes are beautiful in their own right; none is “better” than another.

As Jamie Greenberg, celebrity makeup artist and founder of Jamie Makeup, states, full lips are the most well-known and commonly seen lip shape. “This is when the upper and lower lips are equally plump,” Greenberg explains. Celebrities like Angelina Jolie, Lori Harvey, and Scarlett Johansson are perfect examples of this shape.

Credit: Steve Granitz

Another recognizable shape is the heavy upper lip. This is when the upper lip is fuller than the lower lip. Rosie Huntington-Whiteley is a prime example.

Credit: Steve Granitz

A heavy lower lip features a fuller lower lip compared to the upper lip. Celebrities like Lana Condor and Sofia Vergara exemplify this lip type.

Round lips are naturally full, creating an O shape that gives a youthful, sensual vibe. Kerry Washington and Jung Ho-yeon both showcase this lip shape beautifully.

Image: Reuters

Heart-shaped lips are characterized by a pronounced Cupid’s bow on the upper lip, lending them a soft and romantic feel. Taylor Swift and Rihanna are great examples of this shape.

Image: Reuters

Thin lips offer a delicate appearance that can exude elegance, though some may wish to add volume for balance. Emma Watson’s lips exemplify how thinner lips can suit an elegant and classic look.

Image: Carlo Alegri/Reuters

Not all full lips are the same size or length, as seen in wider-set lips. This lip shape tends to be longer and less full, with Julia Roberts and Rosario Dawson as examples.

Downward-turned lips have a slight downturn, resembling a pout. Brigitte Bardot famously sported this lip shape, with Simone Ashley and Aubrey Plaza also showcasing similar features.

Asymmetrical Lips

Asymmetrical lips, where one side differs from the other, can add unique character. While some people may seek cosmetic treatments for a more balanced appearance, it’s important to note that sometimes treatments can result in uneven lips.

Courtesy: Kylie Jenner/Instagram

Now we enter the realm of cosmetic enhancement, where pouty lips are usually achieved through fillers. This look, popularized by celebrities like Kylie Jenner, emphasizes fullness in both the upper and lower lips for a lush appearance. Jenner has openly discussed her use of cosmetic procedures, stating, "Everything about me is fake except my cheeks. I’m not shy talking about that sort of thing. I have no regrets." Pouty lips are often referred to as "bee-stung" lips, resembling full lips.

One of the most sought-after lip shapes in cosmetic procedures today is the Russian lip. This style features doll-like lips with a well-defined Cupid’s bow, achieved by enhancing the natural peaks of the upper lip. While we can’t confirm whether Tessa Thompson or Sabrina Carpenter have had work done, they can serve as inspiration for this lip shape.

Tented lips feature a pronounced center on the upper lip, resulting in a gently arched and voluminous appearance. This look is often achieved with lip fillers, and while we can’t say for certain what procedures Fox or Bieber have undergone, they exemplify this lip shape.

How to Enhance Your Natural Lip Shape Cosmetically

Lip Filler

If you’re considering lip fillers, it’s best to start gradually. When enhancing your lip shape, take an incremental approach, staying close to your natural proportions; for instance, if your lips are a 1:1 ratio, aim to maintain that balance. Begin with a slight volume increase before making small enhancements to the lip proportions. For aging lips, evaluate the dental show and smile height, as these factors influence whether fillers or surgery will best meet your goals.

Lip Flip

If you're more focused on lifting your upper lip rather than adding volume, a lip lift could be a suitable option. This surgical procedure shortens the space between the nose and upper lip, making the lips appear fuller without the need for injections. Alternatively, a Botox “lip flip” can subtly enhance your upper lip by relaxing surrounding muscles, creating the illusion of fullness without adding volume.

How to Make Thinner Lips Appear Fuller

To give the appearance of fuller lips, mastering the technique of overlining is essential.
First, select a liner that matches your natural lip color. Overline at the Cupid’s bow to create that full effect. Using a nude lipstick can also make your lips appear fuller, as a color that contrasts too much with your skin tone may make your lips look smaller. Choose a nude shade a few tones darker than your natural skin. Finally, topping off your lips with gloss instead of a matte finish will create a fuller appearance, as the gloss reflects light.

Can Lip Shapes Change Over Time?

Yes, lip shapes can—and often do—change with time. Lips typically thin as collagen and hyaluronic acid production diminishes. However, genetics primarily determine your lip shape and fullness.

Maintaining your lip shape is possible, though. If your lips are the focal point, the surrounding skin acts as the frame. Just as a damaged frame can lessen the appeal of a picture, aging skin can detract from the appearance of the lips. Both need care and attention to ensure they complement each other, creating a youthful, harmonious look.

How to Start a Lip-Care Routine

Plastic surgeons recommend starting a complete lip-care routine with a hydrating lip balm containing SPF to protect against sun damage, which is essential for daily maintenance.

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