The power pull

How ponytails became fashion's most versatile statement

This understated hairstyle has shaped culture from Ancient Greece to the modern runway. Photos: File

KARACHI:

The slick of hair oil, the decisive middle part, the gathering at the nape—this understated hair choice has often straddled the line between mundane and glam. Even in the absence of cascading fabrics and riots of colour typical of the most extravagant runways, the humble ponytail can bring to its wearer a diplomatic sophistication.

Who knew a simple gathering of hair could carry the weight of centuries? In South Asia, the ponytail has long mimicked a cultural compass, shifting between rebellion and tradition, from the tight, oiled plaits worn by schoolgirls in pre-partition India to today's sleek, corporate-ready styles.

If 1950s America was all about bouncing ponytails as a symbol of teenage rebellion, across the world, in both India and Pakistan, adherence to strict grooming standards meant schoolgirls would sport either two plaits or a single, neat ponytail. Fast forward to the professional revolution of the '60s and '70s, when women entered office spaces sporting high, sleek ponytails that symbolised capability while nodding to traditional sensibilities.

The ponytail's legacy extends back even further. Ancient Greeks and Romans wore it for practicality, whether in athletic arenas or on the battlefield, immortalising it in marble and bronze. In Imperial China, similarly, hair was an essential aspect of social rank and identity, with warriors and scholars favouring styles that balanced elegance with purpose. But it is today's icons who have turned necessity into a signature look.

Icons of expression

Ariana Grande's high ponytail—originally a solution to red dye damage—became her trademark, while Deepika Padukone's glossy, centre-parted low ponytail has accompanied her onto international red carpets, symbolising contemporary South Asian elegance.

Athletes, too, have claimed the ponytail as a vehicle of self-expression. Serena Williams has threaded her ponytail with beads, blending sport with cultural pride, while Simone Biles' high ponytail adds flair to every gravity-defying leap, an exclamation mark to her accomplishments.

This style's star power stretches across decades. In the 1970s, Cher's ultra-long, straight ponytail radiated rock-and-roll attitude, while Audrey Hepburn's soft, nape-gathered ponytail in the 1950s became the blueprint for elegance. Hepburn's version, with wispy pieces framing her face, channelled a European sophistication that many would come to rebel against.

On more contemporary red carpets, the ponytail's chameleon nature shines through. Sonam Kapoor Ahuja, for instance, elevated the "facelift ponytail" at a 2019 event with a stunning Ezra Couture gown. Styled by celebrity hairstylist Hiral Bhatia, her look featured a taut ponytail pulled at an angle, creating a lifted effect that added a fresh edge to modern South Asian glamour.

Pageantry and everyday glamour

In the world of pageantry too the ponytail makes a strong statement. Pakistan's trailblazing Miss Universe contestant, Erica Robin, recently turned many heads in Baku with her masterful use of this versatile style. She paired a high ponytail with a bright striped yellow and white dress for casual outings. Not to forget her Eid celebration look last year which incorporated intricate braiding, a perfect testament to the ponytail's adaptability for any occasion.

Among its many variants, the high ponytail emerged as a statement of confidence on 1990s runways, while the low, neat version became a staple for corporate professionals. South Asian weddings are witnessing a similar trend, where brides are choosing ponytail variations that bridge ancestral tradition with contemporary cool. Case in point: Alia Bhatt's no-frills medium-height ponytail for her friend's wedding.

Deceptively simple, this style gathers more than just hair—it collects stories of cultural evolution, professional ambition, and personal expression. From the strict hair rules of the past to the fluid fashion statements of today, the ponytail refuses to be boxed into a single narrative. It dances between tradition and transformation, practicality and glamour, always gathering momentum, never gathering dust.

Jump on the bandwagon

Today, the versatility of the ponytail extends far beyond its basic form. Hairstylists recommend several key techniques to elevate this seemingly simple style. For a sleek, professional look, prep damp hair with a smoothing serum before blow-drying with a paddle brush. The key to a lasting hold lies in sectioning—divide hair horizontally at the crown, secure the bottom section first, then gradually add the top portion while maintaining tension.

Accessories have become instrumental in transforming the ponytail from basic to bold. Metal cuffs wrapped around the base add architectural interest, while vintage scarves tied in elaborate bows echo the glamour of bygone eras. For evening events, consider weaving delicate chains or pearl strands through the length, or embellishing the base with ornate clips. Even the humble hair tie has evolved—from velvet scrunchies that add texture to spiral coils that prevent breakage and kinking.

The position of your ponytail can dramatically alter your look. A high ponytail elongates the neck and lifts facial features, particularly when secured tightly at the crown. For a softer approach, gather hair at the nape, allowing a few strands to frame the face—a technique popularized by editorial stylists for its timeless appeal.

Those seeking extra volume might consider the double-ponytail trick: create one ponytail at the crown and another below it, then combine them for the illusion of thicker, longer hair. Whether slicked back with precision or intentionally tousled for texture, the ponytail continues to prove itself as one of hairstyling's most adaptable techniques.

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