Of tassels, sequins and harem pants: TEXPO 2024 Fashion Week Day 1

The highly anticipated TEXPO 2024 kicked off at Karachi's Pearl Continental Hotel on October 23, uniting over 400 delegates for a two-day fashion event centered on sustainability. Under the theme "Weaving the Way to Sustainability," the showcase highlighted innovative designs from leading industry names, swiftly blending style with eco-conscious practices. Day one set an impressive tone, featuring a runway that celebrated rich heritage inspirations, sculptural designs, fresh takes on street style, and the striking allure of metallic accents.

Shamaeel Ansari

Opening the show was Shamaeel Ansari with her Ms International collection, and few could have made a better first impression. She leaned on heritage inspirations - Mughal and Ottoman influences were evident, with her signature tassels, wrap jackets, and rich brocades dominating the runway. Shamaeel’s skill lies in fusing traditional motifs with modern sensibilities, a trick she mastered long before others even dared to try. The palette, starting with deep jewel tones on velvet and moving into warmer champagne and beige silks, mimicked the transition from winter to warmer weather whether she meant for it to do so or not. Each piece carried an air of aristocracy without alienating the modern woman with bell bottoms, cuffed trousers and pockets. Whether it was digital prints or the more formal handworked floral bunches, the collection offered something regal without being too austere.

Hassan Riaz brought a bold after-dark allure to life with pieces all reconstructed from older collections. The runway shimmered with deep plum and obsidian hues, showcasing sharp-shouldered silhouettes—pieces that belonged in the avant-garde. Asymmetrical necklines cut through the air like abstract sculptures, with each look growing more daring. A striking wine-hued gown featured a sculpted torso contrasted by flowing tulle, while the true showstopper was a black sculptural dress with sweeping curves and structured layers—a celebration of bold, high-impact fashion. Some looks bordered overwhelming, but most of the showcase carried an excessive flair that was wittingly subdued by a dark palette. The gender-neutral element was also refreshingly subtle, with both men and women clad in sequins, their hair styled in sleek updos that heightened the collection’s futuristic aesthetic. With statement capes and crystalline embellishments, Riaz pushed the boundaries of eveningwear, daringly creative yet impossible to ignore.

Sanam Chaudhri’s NYX was ferocious and sensual with its risqué cuts and bead worked vanguard jackets. This Autumn/Winter collection, inspired by the women of the night, exuded power, though at times in a somewhat heavy-handed way. Cheetah print chokers and details felt slightly on the nose for a collection about fierceness. The use of rich silks and tassels followed this year’s international trends, but Chaudhri injected them with her own 1920s flapper-inspired energy, creating an edgier take on the Jazz Age revival. Her offerings included blacks, deep reds, and golds punctuated by sharp A-symmetrical cuts, with over emphasised shoulders, harem pants, and knot-detail halters taking centre stage. This collection wasn’t for the faint of heart - each look demanded your full attention. 

Sahar Atif’s Salvaged Selvedge stood out for its inventive mix of street style and cultural heritage, making it the most compelling showcase of the evening. Breathing new life into discarded denim, Atif artfully married the rugged appeal of upcycled denim with the sophisticated heritage of Sindhi Ajrak patterns. Models walked the runway in deconstructed vests with industrial mesh pockets, trimmed with Ajrak borders, paired with wide-leg trousers featuring intricate patchwork. On more than one occasion, a jacket's exaggerated proportions were balanced by a black tank underneath, while gathered harem-style pants completed the silhouette with studied nonchalance. A colour-blocked jumpsuit in varying shades of indigo, cinched at the waist with an Ajrak-printed belt was among Atif’s most successful looks. Each outfit told a distinct story, from relaxed-fit jackets with traditional trims to distressed patchwork pants that added an urban edge. White sneakers anchored the look, while bohemian braids woven with Ajrak threads framed the models' faces, rounding out the street-savvy, heritage-infused aesthetic. 

Japan’s Yuna Hattori paid homage to traditional Japanese culture while pushing boundaries with contemporary twists. With a colour palette oscillating between extremes – from imperial reds to ethereal whites, punctuated by statement blues and golds, Hattori’s showcase explored the evening’s fascination with metallic accents. Perhaps most innovative was her treatment of traditional kimono elements: dramatic obi-inspired belts reimagined as structural elements, while traditional sleeves morph into architectural puff shoulders that frame the face with theatrical precision. Particularly noteworthy is Hattori's handling of fabric manipulation – her landscape-printed pants and wave-motif skirts demonstrate an understanding of movement that transforms static traditional imagery into a mod dynamism. The Kanane Kimono-inspired collection successfully walks the tightrope between reverence for tradition and the demands of modern luxury fashion. 

Closing the show, Sania Maskatiya’s resort wear Capsule collection was a welcome change after the intensity of the previous displays. While others leaned into the theme of dominance, these pieces were all about easy luxury. Her use of vibrant florals and foliage prints on oranges, fuchsias and yellows in raw silk and crepe evoked sun-drenched beaches and iced lemonades. The relaxed fit co-ord sets with kimono sleeves paired with short culottes played off against the more structured, body-conscious silhouettes from earlier in the show. Maskatiya’s designs were all about movement and fun. The colour palette - vivid yet working together in harmony - triggered a dopamine hit, and while simple in theory, it would take bravery to pull off the kaleidoscope that is the Capsule collection. And if you need more proof of the duality present in fashion, wear one of these co-ords while out on an errand or slip on a pair of heels, some jewellery and turn it into formal wear.

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