Leepa Valley - A Hidden Vale of Kashmir
My journey to Leepa Valley took four years in the making. Originally it was planned with Mountain Biking Islamabad (MTBI), a cycling group, but the plans were cancelled every time due to issues on the border, road closure, road conditions, floods in the area, or the pandemic.
Finally, last year, on the spur of the moment, I got in my car and headed towards the Jhelum district, following Google Maps. I just had to go and see this valley for myself, and scout the locations for future mountain-biking adventures or bringing travellers here for sightseeing.
Not taking any chances on road conditions, and missing scenic spots to visit, I opted to hire a Jeep in Reshian Village.
“Ye ap ki gari araam say chali jai gi [your car will easily go]” said the jeep driver.
Hiring the jeep turned out to be a good decision as I was able to gain more knowledge about the valley from the local driver. The conversation during the journey with the jeep driver revealed hidden information that Googling did not mention. Also found out that Google Maps was showing the old jeep track, not the new metalled road that passes through Dao Khan and Sher Gali top.
Last year's journey set up the mountain biking trip when in June, ten cyclists from the Islamabad MBTI group became the first to cycle down from Sher Gali top to Leepa Valley. This was followed by a curated sightseeing trip for a small group.
Leepa Valley is a Hidden Gem, and many have not ventured to see it, because, come summer, we all head to Pakistan’s north popular destinations in Hunza Valley, Skardu, Chitral, Neelum Valley, Kaghan Valley, Swat Valley or Kumrat Valley. Very few know about a small hamlet close to the Line of Control in Kashmir. At Moji and a few other places, one can easily spot Indian and Pak Army posts facing each other — a valley running parallel to the LOC.
Still not a popular destination, a tour to Leepa Valley in Kashmir promises you breathtaking landscapes, serene villages, a glimpse into the region's rich culture, and local Kashmiri cuisine. Nestled amidst the majestic mountains of the Himalayan Ranges, Leepa Valley is renowned for its lush green meadows, dense forests, wildlife, glistening streams, waterfalls, and culture and heritage.
Leepa Valley is an arable (mainly rice and walnuts) valley situated in the Hattian Bala District of Azad Jammu and Kashmir. The valley is divided into 5-sectors: Dao Khan, Leepa, Nokot, Kasirkot, Channian, and several small hamlets.
From Islamabad, the journey takes almost seven hours or more, covering a distance of 230 km. You will pass Murree Hills crossing the Jhelum River at Kohala, and heading towards Muzaffarabad. From Muzaffarabad, one road heads towards Neelum Valley and the other towards Jhelum Valley, following the River Jhelum, ending at Chakoti check post near LOC. After reaching Hattian Bala, you will cross over the Jhelum River at Neli metal bridge, and start ascending higher and higher into the mountains, while driving through a scenic winding and narrow road. As you drive higher, the air becomes cool and crisp, and the views of the valley below are more captivating
After crossing the Reshian security post, where your CNIC will be checked, there are two routes you can take. The old jeep track called the Defense Road descends into Nokot village, or the new metalled road passing Moji into Leepa. If you plan to take the old route, you will require a 4x4. On the new road, all kinds of vehicles can go.
I hear the old route is much more beautiful, passing through lush green pine forests and meadows, descending over Nokot Rice fields. Already the cyclists are planning a return journey to attempt the road less travelled. It was also a pleasant surprise that the timber mafia had not reached this valley, and we got to see tall majestic trees.
On this tour, we took the new road. The first major hamlet is the beautiful meadows of Dao Khan at 2600m. At Dao Khan, AJK Tourism Department has an eight-room guest house with full amenities and a lovely view of the surroundings. Once we reached Sher Gali top at 2,750 m, it gave a panoramic view of the valley on both sides. As the name suggests, leopards inhabit the forest, with some locals claiming sighting them late at night when they come out, to hunt for local goats and chickens. We did not see any leopards but did see monkeys and different species of birds.
From Sher Gali, on a clear day, one can see the Mountain Tops of Rati Gali in Neelum Valley and Kaghan Valley. Even in the summer months, it was cold at the top, requiring a jacket to protect from the cold air. The narrow roads, through a series of hair bend turns and forest, descend into the first village of Moji in the Leepa Valley.
Upon reaching Leepa Valley, around 1,900 m, you will immerse yourself in the tranquility of nature. Explore charming villages dotted along the valley, where locals welcome you with warm hospitality, traditional wooden-style Kashmir houses, and local red rice with red beans [lobia] and other cuisines.
The main crops and fruits in Leepa Valley are red rice (probably due to the high iron content in water), red beans, wheat, walnuts, apples, and apricots. Locals also produce honey harvested from small bees. Some also grow other vegetables but are mainly for their consumption, and storing them for a cold harsh winter.
The unique red rice I had not seen in other parts of Pakistan, is mainly used for their own consumption, and they make flour as well as use it in other dishes. Our host in Leepa proudly claimed that their walnuts are known to be the best in the world, and are bought by traders in Karachi even before the harvest.
We also met a farmer who turned out to be the local honey producer from small bees, which is considered rare and has the best taste. He has invited us back in September or October to purchase from him.
If you are an outdoor enthusiast, Leepa Valley offers ample opportunities for trekking, camping, hiking, mountain biking, and wildlife spotting. Marvel at the diverse flora and fauna as you traverse through pristine forests and meandering trails.
Popular destinations in Leepa are the Nokot rice fields, Channian village where you will see water-propelled rice mills and wheat mills, the last village Manda Kuli, and the meadows around it. You can also take a full-day jeep ride to Bara Hazari (12,000 ft) at 3,600 m, very close to LOC. For Bara Hazari, you now need a NOC.
Leepa Valley is also famous for its typical Kashmiri-style architecture. There is a century-old, 5-story wooden house near Kasirkot, which was initially built without using any nails. The family still lives there and has opened up some sections for tourists. However, they do charge a nominal fee for entry that they utilise for its maintenance.
As for local handicrafts, the tradition of Kashmiri furniture making is fading away, and very few skilled carpenters still practice their art, crafting Kashmiri styled furniture on order.
Good or bad, commercialisation and mass tourism have still not reached Leepa Valley, therefore stay options are limited, with better facilities at Spring Valley Guest Houses and Leepa View Guesthouses in Leepa Valley.
Several guest houses lack modern amenities in the washroom or hot water facility as locals have converted their homes into lodges. This is now changing as more and more people are slowly venturing into this valley.
On my last trip, sadly we saw several new unplanned constructions happening, new restaurants being built, which may end up causing natural beauty to erode.
Here the AJK tourism and local needs to ensure that they protect the landscape, avoiding building concrete contraptions around scenic spots that are visited by travelers.
The best time to visit is from the end of April to November. In May and June, the local farmers flood the rice fields. In August these fields are lush green with tall rice stalks. Harvest is sometimes in September and October. During winter the valley is snowbound, with access only via 4x4s.
This also poses a hardship for the locals who are then cut off for days from the mainland, unable to move in case of an emergency as there are no proper medical facilities or hospitals. Many locals also have built their second homes in Muzaffarabad or Rawalpindi to spend winter months, and return in spring.
Due to its proximity to the Line of Control, the valley is currently open to Pakistani nationals with a valid ID. Drone photography is limited to the rice fields at Nokot, and a few other places, with restrictions in place close to the borders or military installations.
During the journey to Leepa Valley, en route, you can also visit several nearby attractions such as Chamb and Jaskool Waterfall, and Dak Bungalow on Muzaffarabad Road overlooking Jhelum River, where Quaid-e-Azam Muhammad Ali Jinnah and Mohtarma Fatima Jinnah rested on their way back from Srinagar. The bungalow has been converted into a museum with few rooms available to stay.
Leepa Valley is a new destination. A trip to Leepa Valley is not just a journey; it's a soul-stirring adventure that will leave you with memories to cherish for a lifetime.
All facts and information are the sole responsibility of the writer
Amir is a business executive. He followed his passion for travel and tourism and formed his own destination management company. He can be reached at roadlesstraveledinfo@gmail.com
For hyperlinks in the article
MTBI
https://www.facebook.com/MTBIslamabad
Mountain Biking
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f9sQQVLD5GA
NoKot Rice Fields
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ef0fZQnkNXA
Channian Rice Mills
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eoJ0ijpODI0