Beauty beneath the clutter
Karachi, the city of lights has been through many peaks and troughs ever since its establishment in the early 18th century during the rule of the Kalhora Dynasty, when it surfaced as a small fishing settlement by the Indus Delta. Although, its history dates to 500 BC; the Greeks used this port and referred to it by many names. Alexandar the Great’s admiral is said to have sailed from the ‘Morontobara Port’, now known as the Manora Island, near Karachi harbour.
We often go for photowalks along with our Meta-based photography group across the city, with Saddar’s vicinity and adjoining areas comprising of the remaining British Era vintage architecture being a photographer’s delight. Through Venetian Gothic architecture, we observe precision and intricate details that the British Era architects such as Moses Somake and James Strachan embedded in their work. We have been documenting these, lest the real estate continues demolishing these gems with no regard to aesthetics or history. It seems like it will not be long before we l end up having box-shaped buildings although history tried to influence us with architectural diversity which is part of the remaining fabric of Karachi.
One fine Sunday, we embarked upon a plan to capture the city’s vintage architecture beyond the clutter of encroachments obscuring the city’s beauty. Knowing that our photowalk activities have significantly minimised because of the prevailing law and order situation, with security ensured, it was as if our rusty cameras were given a breathing space as we came face to face with history that we had somehow forgotten.
We attempted to capture the historic buildings that are sometimes hidden behind tangles of wires relaying telephone and internet signals across the city, but I must say here that while removing this non-essential clutter from our pictures during the post processing phase sounded fun, but it was quite a challenge after realising that our people have proritised unplanned development while trivialising aesthetics and have completely distanced ourselves from civics.
The Sindh Cultural Heritage (Preservation) Act, 1994 forbids old buildings from being destroyed, yet here we are, in the ruins of good memories. As we walked in our neglected city, we chanced upon some wonders whose façade appeared magnificent, beyond the impending clutter. Over time, the city has evolved tremendously and today the vintage architecture is juxtaposed with public utility infrastructure amidst co-existing old and new buildings. We simply have to break through the clutter to see the beauty often overlooked.
What remains of the past era is often lost behind the clutter of encroachments and rapid urbanisation and modernisation, with people failing to notice these past treasures. For instance, according to estimates, over 60% of Karachi is unplanned with safety parameters compromised, dejecting the very identity of what was once considered the Paris of Asia. Once a prim and proper city is now in shambles, with mismanagement glaring in the form of sewage spills, tangles and bunches of wires intruding upon the utility infrastructure like parasites. Garbage strewn across streets, illegal settlements, pick axe work, all indicating a lack of governance and a city having become an orphan despite being the financial powerhouse of Pakistan.
Karachi depicts a real-life Gotham of any metropolitan city being inflicted with several diseases. From a photographer’s point of view, it seemed as if someone had poorly knitted illegal wires which were reported by residents to be belonging to other utilities like phone and cable operators, presenting a potential safety hazard amidst dense construction. Other poles, reported to belong to the power utility, had fluorescent yellow strips seemingly with identifying serial numbers on them, and the poles themselves appeared relatively cleaner and mounted on concrete blocks to keep them earthed. We observed during our walk that one of the vintage structures was partially demolished to connect it with a poorly constructed brick and cement room. Despite all odds, the heritage sites stood out for us, imploring to be preserved if only through photography.
Another ailment which is observed in our city is the burdening of utilities such as power and water. For instance, when we started the photowalk from the Railway Colony in Sultanabad, we saw a web of wires travelling several metres from across the bridge connected to KE’s pole like a blood-sucking parasite. This is an issue inflicting several parts of the city, despite KE dismantling the hook connections aka kundas on a regular basis to ensure an uninterrupted supply of electricity.
Is it only the power utility’s responsibility to manage this issue? A collective and persistent effort involving utilities, the government, and public at large is needed to eliminate this issue from the country.
When we talk about the vantage point for photography considering vintage architecture; the arches, window cases, ventilating windows, angles of natural light pouring in through them make up a good composition. However, it is a shame to have an array of cable and internet wires obscuring these gems. We removed some to the best of our editorial skills to reveal what we originally possessed and now need to preserve.
The façade of the iconic 1935 Lakshmi Building shines through when strings of wires channelling internet/TV services are edited out . Photo credits: Jamaluddin
Lakshmi Building built circa 1935 which once flaunted a statue of Lakshmi, the Goddess of wealth just above its clock tower - now taken down, still stands tall till date. M.A Jinnah Road, formerly known as Bunder Road still showcases the remnants of art and culture and the Lakshmi Building is one of these. The building is known to have served commercial and residential purposes in the pre-partitioned period and was inaugurated in December 1938, by the Indian poet and political activist Sarojini Naidu. It is known to have hosted leaders of the Pakistan Movement and was once the office of Muslim League and also the tallest building at the time of independence.
Karachi Chamber of Commerce and Industry is 89 years old. A telephone pole installed near the entrance also hosted surveillance cameras. The original picture shows the building in a monochrome effect. Photo credits: Paree Ahmed
The Karachi Chamber of Commerce and Industry (KCCI) is the largest business chamber in Pakistan and the eighth largest business elective representative body in the world as per its membership base. Built on a plot purchased for Rs 114,750, its foundation stone was laid by Mahatma Gandhi in July 1934 and the building served as the headquarters of the Karachi Indian Merchants' Association. If you observe closely, you will notice the amalgamation of Islamic and Venetian architecture, astutely designed by Ahmed Hussain Agha who had also designed the Mohatta Palace and the Hindu Gymkhana. You will see similarity and his signature style in all his work. Essential services must co-exist with vintage buildings, but we often see infrastructure such as streetlights and utility poles infringed upon by cables of internet service providers with booster devices that can and have created safety hazards in the past. It is understandable that development or building facades may not be devoid of any wires given the need for basic utilities, but we often see TV/internet cable wires tangled randomly and sometimes even becoming a safety hazard during the monsoon season with power passing through them. These old buildings require modern facilities, resulting in phone poles amidst other facilities installed near them alongside planning and thorough vigilance which can help maintain a balance between the two.
Karachi Chamber of Commerce and Industry revealing a Venetian touch. Air conditioners installed in vintage buildings lead to cables obscuring the façade. Photo credits: Syed Zohaib
Abandoned villa behind PIDC House decaying and perhaps ready to be demolished, already fading away in the background with wires passing through trees and branches. It needs massive restoration.
During our walk, one of the structures which caught our attention was a once glorious villa just behind the PIDC building, now sad as its past splendor is gone as it stands orphaned by heritage preservers.
The historic Habib Bank Plaza (concept image with clutter shown in the reflection of sewage water and removed overhead to give a clear picture in its literal sense). Sewage spills have become a recurring phenomenon in the city and need immediate attention. Photo credits: Haris Chishti
The Habib Bank Plaza was designed by Leo A. Daly with the building finally completed in 1971, thus becoming the tallest building then in Pakistan. It flaunted this title for four decades and in the continent until 1972. It was used to sight the moon for Ramzan and Eid.
