Charo Machhi: Khuzdar's best kept secret
Nestled in the heart of Balochistan's Khuzdar district lies a breathtaking masterpiece of nature's artistry - Charo Machhi. This valley, cradled between towering mountains, unveils a sanctuary of wildlife amidst its rolling hills and undulating terrain. With its alluring weather and gentle babbling waterfalls, Charo Machhi offers a soothing soundtrack to the symphony of nature.
Charo Machhi is a place where nature's majesty unfolds, revealing hidden treasures and unique beauty. Its waterfalls beckon visitors with an enchanting invitation to relinquish worldly pleasures and embrace the magical power of nature in its purest form. Beyond its visible and audible appeal, there exists a profound spiritual interconnectedness that touches the heart to its core. Indeed, Charo Machhi stands as a testament to the magnificence and splendour that Balochistan possesses.
Located a mere 50 kilometrees southeast of Khuzdar City and 350 kilometres from the provincial capital Quetta, reaching Charo Machhi is no easy feat. The lack of proper road infrastructure makes the journey arduous, requiring approximately four hours from Khuzdar and a staggering eight to nine hours from Quetta. The absence of marked routes on GPS adds to the challenge, with only local drivers and guides holding knowledge of these hidden pathways. It is strongly advised not to travel to Charo Machhi without the assistance of a local person, as venturing off-road in the vast barren land can be perilous.
The route leading to Charo Machhi connects to the Rahtodero-Gwadar Motorway (M8), linking Balochistan with Sindh via Khuzdar and other districts. However, it is important to note that this so-called motorway is a single road shared by traffic from both directions, devoid of toll plazas, fuel pumps, or rest areas commonly found on other motorways in Punjab, Sindh, and Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa. Sadly, this lack of infrastructure is emblematic of Balochistan's longstanding struggle for equitable development.
Interestingly, a visit to the only mud-shop along the motorway is an eye-opening experience. Surprisingly, the shop offers replica products with a noticeable decline in taste and quality, potentially harmful to one's health. This disparity in access to essential goods reflects the persistent neglect faced by the region.
Charo Machhi, with its vast hilly expanse, is home to over 80 to 100 houses, predominantly inhabited by three Baloch tribes: Sasoli, Zehri, and Lehri. These communities have resided here for centuries, witnessing the transformation of what was once a days-long journey into a more manageable four to five-hour drive, thanks to the locals' determination to create off-road routes using their own machinery and tractors. One driver, who ferries tourists daily from Khuzdar to Charo Machhi, shares that a single crossing known as the Gharo cross now takes a mere three minutes, while in the past, it would have taken hours to navigate.
He further emphasises the commendable actions of his father, a Rasaldar in the Levies Force, and other elders who collectively banned hunting within these premises. In the past, hunting deer, rabbits, and birds was commonplace, but these practices have now been strictly prohibited. This awareness and commitment to preserving wildlife are praiseworthy, highlighting the profound connection these communities have with their natural surroundings.
The driver's brother, also serving in the Levies, is stationed at the sole check post in Charo Machhi, responsible for maintaining law and order from a modest mud-house room. It's intriguing to note that this is one of the few places in Balochistan with just a single check post. However, the absence of local authorities to prevent people from engaging in risky activities, such as venturing into water without life jackets or hiking treacherous hills, poses potential threats to life and safety.
Regrettably, some visitors have displayed irresponsible behavior, resulting in the burning of trees due to their reluctance to find wood for cooking. Noor Ahmad, the driver, expresses concern over such actions and appeals to people to be mindful, urging them not to burn trees when visiting the area.
Upon reaching Charo, vehicles can only go so far. Once cars or bikes are parked, a 50-minute hike awaits to reach the final destination, encompassing awe-inspiring scenery and captivating waterfalls. Zafar Sasoli, a local resident, mentions that there are even more beautiful spots beyond, but reaching them requires traversing waterfalls using ropes, a risky and impractical endeavor.
While the majority of tourists hail from Balochistan, the second-largest group comes from Karachi, according to Zafar Sasoli. He remains hopeful that once Charo Machhi receives the attention it deserves, people from all over Pakistan and the world will flock to this haven for their holidays. Zafar adds, "Every visitor is our guest, and their place in Baloch society holds great significance."
Abdul Hakeem, a 16-year-old tractor driver and farmer, advises visitors to carry necessary toolkits and keep their fuel tanks filled to avoid any mishaps. He emphasises the importance of being prepared, drawing from experiences of seeing people stranded due to a lack of essential tools or fuel. Abdul Hakeem has even installed a booster on his tractor to help fill the tires of his own vehicle and assist stranded visitors, refusing any payment as he considers them guests. This display of hospitality exemplifies the high regard for guests in Baloch society.
Along the way, one encounters numerous intrepid bikers who brave the rugged mountainous tracks for hours, relishing the challenges as part of their adventure. Embarking on a journey through this harsh terrain on two wheels requires immense effort, as travelers must carry all necessary supplies with them. Faiz Baloch, a traveler who experienced a bike malfunction, showcases his resourcefulness by carrying a toolkit and instructional videos downloaded from YouTube to repair his bike's clutch. Although faced with a setback when a critical nut went missing and he had no substitutes, a passing car came to his aid, providing the necessary part. As he repairs his bike, Faiz highlights the essence of true joy lies in the wild, where motorcycle repair shops and convenience stores along the road cease to exist.
People visit Charo Machhi to experience the awe-inspiring peaks that beckon and provide a sense of pleasure in conquering nature's obstacles. Waris Baloch, a second-year student from Quetta, visiting the area, acknowledges the challenging route but asserts that the difficulties are worthwhile when the destination promises a dream-like realm like Charo Machhi.
Mohammad Usman, a student from Khuzdar District visiting Charo Machhi, believes that Balochistan is blessed with countless beautiful landscapes and spots, such as Moola Chotok and Charo Machhi. These locations were previously unknown to many but are now witnessing an influx of visitors eager to experience these magical sceneries. Usman believes it is the government's responsibility to provide facilities and accessibility, attracting not only domestic tourists but also international travelers.
Another visitor, Zarrar Mughal, expresses his satisfaction with the adventure, stating that while GPS fails to locate the destination, locals provide valuable assistance. He urges people from all over Pakistan to witness this magnificent place firsthand, emphasising the importance of preserving its pristine beauty and cleanliness.
Despite being blessed with such remarkable tourist gems, Balochistan has received little investment and promotion from the government, which could have generated revenue for locals and the government itself. The previous government made promises to promote the tourism industry in Balochistan and improve accessibility to national and international tourists, yet no tangible progress has been observed. Even the Pir Ghaib project, which was supposed to be 'commercialised', remains incomplete.
Locals reveal that various provincial bureaucrats, including their families, have visited Charo Machhi, recognising its potential. However, their visits have not translated into meaningful actions. While the local administration and provincial government should focus on developing routes and improving accessibility, visitors continue to arrive in Charo despite the lack of facilities. By establishing proper infrastructure, equipped with manpower and resources, both visitors and the government could benefit, with the potential for revenue generation and a surplus in the future.
Additionally, efforts should be made to enhance commercial activity in the area, benefiting both visitors and locals by providing income-generating opportunities. Although investors have traditionally shown little interest in Balochistan, focusing primarily on land transactions in Gwadar due to the China-Pakistan Economic Corridor hype, they should recognise that places like Charo Machhi hold vast potential for business and economic activity.
The Balochistan Tourism Department must awaken from its slumber and recognise the hidden treasures within its midst. While the political turmoil often dominates discussions surrounding Balochistan, this province is also home to countless captivating wonders of nature. However, these natural marvels remain largely unknown to the wider world. The true splendour of nature unfolds in the deserted mountainous ranges of Balochistan, with Charo Machhi serving as the pinnacle of this land's supreme beauty and mystique.
Mohammad Zafar Baloch is a freelance journalist based in Quetta. All facts and information are the sole responsibility of the writer.