The Indian experience

I was in Goa recently to cover the SCO meeting. This was the first visit by Pakistani journalists to India since 2016. In recent years, getting a visa has become increasingly cumbersome for media-persons on both sides due to the deteriorating bilateral ties.

Last time I visited India was in 2014, weeks before the parliamentary elections that saw Narendra Modi become the PM. At the time ties between the two countries were not that hostile. In fact we were on a visit at the invitation of the Indian government. The Congress government was still keen to find a way to improve ties with Pakistan. We had met Salman Khurshid and Sujatha Singh, the then Foreign Minister and Foreign Secretary respectively. Both in their opening remarks acknowledged Kashmir as a disputed territory needing a final settlement.

But that was then. Today, if any Indian leader or official publicly acknowledges Kashmir as a disputed territory that would be no less than a diplomatic victory for Pakistan. Things have changed so dramatically in the last decade or so that India no longer publicly talks about Kashmir. One simple explanation for this paradigm shift is the opposite journeys Pakistan and India undertook. While India is emerging as a global economic powerhouse, Pakistan is competing with Sri Lanka. Just one stat would be enough to open our eyes. Pakistan’s total GDP size is currently around $375 billion (projected to come down next year because of the rupee devaluation) while the Indian state Maharashtra’s economic size is projected to rise to $486 billion next year.

There was a heated debate in Pakistan whether Foreign Minister Bilawal Bhutto Zardari should have visited India, given the current state of the bilateral relationship. But, I think it was the right decision. India, I sensed, never wanted Bilawal to come to Goa. The reason was that India knew Bilawal’s presence would overshadow the SCO meeting, the last thing India wanted. India’s approach aside, there was so much hype and obsession about Pakistan-India ties that most of the Indian journalists only travelled to Goa because of Bilawal’s visit. Bilawal’s presence in Goa may not have eased Indo-Pak tensions but he at least broke the physiological barrier that Pakistan can sit with India on multilateral forums. The reaction of S Jaishankar, India’s External Affairs Minister, was not surprising as many Indian journalists conceded that his diatribe had to do with the domestic politics particularly the state elections in Karnataka (Election results show that the anti-Pakistan card didn’t work). It is ironic that India is a huge country with diverse issues yet Pakistan is an issue in their elections. On the other hand India has never been the issue in Pakistan’s domestic politics.

While the relationship between the two countries at state level may be hostile, surprisingly the public sentiment is totally the opposite. When we were at the Goa Airport and as usual, airport security officials checked our passports and tickets, they were pleasantly surprised to see Pakistanis amongst them. “We saw a Pakistani passport for the first time,” said a security guy with a smile. “We are happy to welcome you,” he said and both shook hands. “Have a great stay in Goa,” he said.

We spent a night in Delhi and visited the famous Chandhni Chowk, the old Delhi. There was not an iota of any hostility when we met common Indians. They were welcoming when we introduced ourselves. Similar was the situation in Amritsar. Many Indians who got a chance to visit this side of the border had experienced the same warmth. One wonders why this paradox — hostility at state level but so much warmth at public level.

India is not perfect. But everyone agrees India’s strength lies in its democracy. Modi may be divisive and controversial but he knows the only way to remain in power is through popular vote. This key factor means that no matter who is in power or aspires to be in power in India, he has to deliver. Karnataka election results are a perfect example of that!

Published in The Express Tribune, May 15^th, 2023.

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