‘Culinary Tales From Balochistan’

Recently I attended a book launch event at Serena in Islamabad. My presence there was essentially because of my association with the parents of the author rather than the subject of the book itself, ‘Culinary Tales From Balochistan’.

But I was so impressed by the extent of research the author had put in on culinary matters and her experience during her prolonged stay in Balochistan that I thought I would share them with my readers. It would also be a departure from the negativity that generally has become a normal feature of our discourse.

The book reminds the reader of the importance of Balochistan by giving interesting facts and figures. Balochistan occupies 44% of the area of Pakistan whereas it has only 2% of the population. And an incredibly large coastal belt stretching 800 km across Pakistan’s southern border. The more interesting part was that the author explores people and cultures through recipes from the province. It describes in detail the vast variety of fruit that are a specialty of the province — coconut, banana and date plantation to name a few. The harsh geography, variety of terrains stretching from mountains to the seacoast and the diversity of religions and customs.

Despite the author’s passion for seeking information, she did not come across any community that made use of camel’s milk, although the camel population in Balochistan is fairly high. Apparently, the milk has particular enzymes that does not allow curding and therefore cannot be made into cheese or yoghurt. The writer’s observation that Balochi cuisine highlights the impact of other cultural regions especially Iran and Central Asia is very valid. This is in contrast to the Mughal and Kashmiri cuisine that we are normally used to. Unfortunately, there is very little visibility for this delightful cuisine in modern times or is so well known in other provinces.

The food of Balochistan is simple and reflective of the harsh terrains and punishing climate, wherein temperatures are extreme and only 5% of the land is arable. The book is a history of Balochistan infused with many culinary delights. Simplicity is underlying themes that are reflective of the harsh geography and climate found throughout the province.

Majority of the food recipes are based on items found locally — wheat, salt and meat (sheep), and rice embellishments come through dried fruits — limited sweet dishes mostly revolving around dates. Given small population of Balochistan and nomadic and tribal in nature the food is simple with emphasis on nourishment given that food for most is a privilege not available in abundance. It is not surprising that there is so much attention given to curing of meat and preserving it for usage and so is milk as Krut.

The author starts her journey from Pishin where she is introduced to a traditional method of curing lamb called Landhi. Apparently, at one time it was a favourite dish across Northern Balochistan, now only reserved for those who can afford to eat meat. The cured meat becomes the basis for many other dishes.

It is combined with rice for pulao or with spinach to make Palak meat curry. Pishin rest house also brings back memories of a Balochi chef who served General Ayub to Ziaul Haq to Nawaz Sharif. He was famous for his salty mutton joint and several high-end dishes. The most popular being a dish called Tukuni, soft and succulent barbecue mutton cooked in its own fat and the famous Chapli Kabab and Khadda Kabab.

The variety in types of bread has also been well documented by the author. Whether it is the crusty Tukuni bread from Northern Balochistan enjoyed by the nomadic communities or the Khost Tukuni enjoyed with salted shulambay. These breads are staple for nomads, herders and rangers travelling long distances for days or weeks.

Dried fermented milk, Krut makes the basis for many dishes. Similarly, fisherfolk’s staple meal is dried fish. Those of us living in cities or even the countryside fail to realise the hard life that the nomadic tribes continue to face even in the 21^st century. For them it seems the world stands still and they are content to live the way their ancestors lived.

In Quetta the author explores the cuisine of Hazara people — Fava beans used in different dishes and walnut biscuits. One sees a change when you travel to the coastal regions where fish becomes the staple dish and primary ingredient of the dishes. Fish is also cured in salt and stored for later use in the form of Fish Roti, Fish Halwa or Fish head stew. It is amazing how these tribes mastered the art of preserving food and how this knowledge served them to survive under such hardy conditions.

All this is valuable information for tourists, hikers and interested Pakistanis. But in a Pakistani perspective apart from that it shows in Balochistan for many tribes the time is frozen and their universe is different. The question is: should this state of affairs continue or is it time that the provincial and federal governments make deliberate effort to integrate them into the mainstream by extending facilities of education, health and job opportunities while retaining their identity? The security situation in Balochistan and the general alienation of youth are matters that cannot continue to be ignored any more. Interference in politics by institutions has thwarted political development.

Writing this book was no easy task. The author, Nilofar Qazi, spent three years in Balochistan doing extensive research, going to some of the remotest places, under harsh conditions to understand Baloch culinary habits and living conditions. She told me that it was the hospitality and the support that she received from the tribal heads and Baloch people that facilitated her arduous mission. We need more dedicated and mission oriented young men and women like her to do research and write about the traditions, cultures and richness of our tribal and remote areas.

Published in The Express Tribune, June 1^st, 2022.

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