In conversation with 'Padmaavat' costume designers, Rimple and Harpreet Narula
The designer duo will be showcasing their 'Padmaavat' experience on May 3 and May 4 in Karachi
PHOTO: MOVIES TODAY
KARACHI:
It was evident from the very first glimpse of Sanjay Leela Bhansali's Padmaavat, that the film was going to be grand.
When it finally released after multiple controversies, it was hard to miss the intricate details, vintage crafts and the historic relevance of the film. Deepika Padukone flaunting a gorgeous lehenga in the first clip of the trailer was just a teaser of the opulence that was to follow.
But, it was not only the Rajput Queen Padmavati, whose look had me speechless. The rest of the cast too, including Ranveer Singh's dark side as Alauddin Khilji, Shahid Kapoor's poise as Rawal Ratan Singh and Aditi Rao Hyderi's innocence as Rani Mehrunnisa left me pleasantly surprised.
But I was convinced there was more to the looks of these stars than meets the eye. So, when I was given a chance to sit and chat with the brains behind the magnificence of Padmaavat, I instantly grabbed the opportunity.
This is Harpreet and his wife Rimple Narula's first time in Pakistan. The designer duo is here for Shan-e-Pakistan, a three-day cultural event, in collaboration with SEHUBxSoPritti, where they will be showcasing their Padmaavat experience at the exhibition.
As I walked in the lobby of Pearl Continental Hotel, Karachi, I spotted a group of people, happily laughing amongst themselves. That's when I saw Harpreet, a middle-aged man with salt and pepper hair and his lively better half, Rimple.
We made our way to a quiet area of the hotel, where I was able to talk my heart out about the film that mesmerises me every time I watch it.
The Express Tribune (ET): Let's start with a few details about the two of you. How did the brand RimpleandHarpreet come about?
Harpreet: It's a funny story actually. Neither of us have studied fashion. We belong to business backgrounds. I studied economics while Rimple has a very strong set of marketing skills. But we share a mutual love for history and fashion.
Even when we were on our honeymoon, we would take out a few hours every day and explore the city. We loved travelling, we loved vintage and we loved classical attires. So, all of this led to the inception of RimpleandHarpreet.
ET: So, Padmaavat. How was your experience working with Sanjay and the star-studded cast? Have you previously designed costumes for any other film?
Rimple: Padmaavat is the first film we did the styling for! We have no prior experience of working in a movie. Sanjay is an institute on his own. He has this great vision of everything he does before he even starts doing it. So, he had a very clear idea of how he wanted his cast to look and how he wanted each character to speak only with the costumes. He taught us so much.
Harpreet: The first three months were a cleansing period. We are designers of today’s time, who are updated about the latest on Instagram and the blogging world. Whether it is us or his musicians, Bhansali first brings one to a ‘pure zone’, which he refers to the cleansing period. All the clichés of today’s modern design have to be eventually washed out; it is like setting the mood board.
Once we are in his zone, then the question arises about how we are going to contribute ideas. Two hundred people working in the same direction means we have to be on same page. He handed us a beautifully written script of 200 pages. When we read it, we realised why Bhansali says certain things in a certain way.
ET: How many costumes did you make for the main cast in the film?
Rimple: Let's say around 100 to 150 dresses for the main cast.
ET: How did you come up with the designs? Was there any basic symbolism for Hindu or Muslims in the outfits?
Rimple: The research was fairly important. Harpreet did an extensive research on the period the film is based on, which is between the 11th and 12th centuries. So, it was necessary to study the kind of fabrics, clothes and jewellery the royalty during that era used to wear. The history behind every outfit and every character was essential information.
Harpreet: As far as symbolism goes, yes, there were many symbols in the dresses. For instance, the Ghoomar song. Deepika wore a lehenga which featured a blue layering and was a representation of Hinduism and Rajputi traditions.
ET: From Khilji's cynical side and Rawal Ratan's piousness to Deepika's royalty and Mehrunnisa's simplicity, the characters were all so apart from one another. Was it challenging to prepare costumes for them?
Harpreet: Well, it was very demanding that we do justice to the characters. The main challenge was to transform Deepika from a Silhenese princess to a Rajput queen. If you saw, Silhenese people are extremely simple.
Her ensembles while she was a princess were not embellished with heavy embroidery or jewellery. But the moment she became a Rajput queen, her outfits changed drastically.
Rimple: She wore heavier lehengas and a lot of jewellery. Even the unibrow Deepika so splendidly carried. It was phenomenal.
Mehrunnisa, on the other hand, was more innocent. There was a part in the film when she banished by Khilji and for that scene, Sanjay wanted a raw look. So, we had a hand embroided black dupatta draped over her to show that.
Ranveer had a dark side to him, so we opted for deep colours such as black and brown. Shahid's attire was more towards the mellow side. Soft tones such as whites and creams were used in his costumes.
ET: The Jauhar scene was grand. It was massive. We saw so many women, all donning red. How did you make sure Deepika stood out?
Rimple: Yes, it was huge. And we made so many dresses for that one particular scene! But, here's the thing: if you look closely, you'll realise that Deepika is holding a dupatta that isn't the same red everyone else is wearing. It is a fuchsia-red and darkish pink.
Harpreet: Since that's the traditional colour of Indian brides, we wanted Deepika to have that included in her outfit somehow. And we felt that a dupatta of the same colour was the best bet.
ET: Padmaavat was ridden with controversy that almost made it impossible to even hit the screens. For protecting honour and dignity of the Rajputi queen, a decision to hide Deepika's midriff via VFX in the Ghoomar song was made. Did you have to change anything in terms of clothing?
Rimple: No, we didn't actually. The controversy started after the first look of the film was out. So, by that time, all the dresses, all the costumes were done. And we weren't asked to alter anything.
ET: Is Padmaavat the kind of work you would like to take forward for your future projects?
Rimple: Well, even before Padmaavat, if you look at our previous work, it has a very classic, traditional and vintage feel to it. So, this is definitely something we'd like to take forward. It's almost like our brand was built to work for Sanjay's film. It is definitely a legacy and we feel so honoured to have worked with such huge names.
ET: How does it feel to visit Pakistan since it's your first time here? Are there any collaborations in line with any Pakistani designers?
Harpreet: It feels amazing. It feels like home, to be honest. You see, Indians and Pakistanis aren't all that different. In terms of culture, dresses, food, films, and even fashion, we are almost similar.
Our roots are from here. Our ancestors lived in the united Punjab, so essentially, we are from Gujranwala. And the love and warmth we got here is exceptional.
We would love to collaborate with Pakistani designers. It'll be like we are working with one of our own.
ET: Thoughts on the Pakistani fashion industry? Is it different from the Indian fashion industry?
Harpreet: Oh, it's brilliant! We've seen the work of some Pakistani designers and we are in complete awe! There's Zara Shahjahan we adore. The cuts and new ideas of today's fashion industry are enthralling!
Rimple: There's Pakistani designer Faraz Manan who has been working with many Bollywood A-listers, with Kareena Kapoor Khan as his muse. It's stunning! We can't wait to come back here and showcase our other work.
Hapreet and Rimple will be displaying their designs on May 3 and May 4. Pakistani starlet Saba Qamar will be seen as their showstopper today.
Previously, Harpreet and Rimple have worked with some Bollywood bigwigs such as Tabu, Madhuri Dixit Nene and Huma Qureshi.
Have something to add to the story? Share it in the comments below.
It was evident from the very first glimpse of Sanjay Leela Bhansali's Padmaavat, that the film was going to be grand.
When it finally released after multiple controversies, it was hard to miss the intricate details, vintage crafts and the historic relevance of the film. Deepika Padukone flaunting a gorgeous lehenga in the first clip of the trailer was just a teaser of the opulence that was to follow.
But, it was not only the Rajput Queen Padmavati, whose look had me speechless. The rest of the cast too, including Ranveer Singh's dark side as Alauddin Khilji, Shahid Kapoor's poise as Rawal Ratan Singh and Aditi Rao Hyderi's innocence as Rani Mehrunnisa left me pleasantly surprised.
But I was convinced there was more to the looks of these stars than meets the eye. So, when I was given a chance to sit and chat with the brains behind the magnificence of Padmaavat, I instantly grabbed the opportunity.
This is Harpreet and his wife Rimple Narula's first time in Pakistan. The designer duo is here for Shan-e-Pakistan, a three-day cultural event, in collaboration with SEHUBxSoPritti, where they will be showcasing their Padmaavat experience at the exhibition.
As I walked in the lobby of Pearl Continental Hotel, Karachi, I spotted a group of people, happily laughing amongst themselves. That's when I saw Harpreet, a middle-aged man with salt and pepper hair and his lively better half, Rimple.
We made our way to a quiet area of the hotel, where I was able to talk my heart out about the film that mesmerises me every time I watch it.
The Express Tribune (ET): Let's start with a few details about the two of you. How did the brand RimpleandHarpreet come about?
Harpreet: It's a funny story actually. Neither of us have studied fashion. We belong to business backgrounds. I studied economics while Rimple has a very strong set of marketing skills. But we share a mutual love for history and fashion.
Even when we were on our honeymoon, we would take out a few hours every day and explore the city. We loved travelling, we loved vintage and we loved classical attires. So, all of this led to the inception of RimpleandHarpreet.
ET: So, Padmaavat. How was your experience working with Sanjay and the star-studded cast? Have you previously designed costumes for any other film?
Rimple: Padmaavat is the first film we did the styling for! We have no prior experience of working in a movie. Sanjay is an institute on his own. He has this great vision of everything he does before he even starts doing it. So, he had a very clear idea of how he wanted his cast to look and how he wanted each character to speak only with the costumes. He taught us so much.
Harpreet: The first three months were a cleansing period. We are designers of today’s time, who are updated about the latest on Instagram and the blogging world. Whether it is us or his musicians, Bhansali first brings one to a ‘pure zone’, which he refers to the cleansing period. All the clichés of today’s modern design have to be eventually washed out; it is like setting the mood board.
Once we are in his zone, then the question arises about how we are going to contribute ideas. Two hundred people working in the same direction means we have to be on same page. He handed us a beautifully written script of 200 pages. When we read it, we realised why Bhansali says certain things in a certain way.
ET: How many costumes did you make for the main cast in the film?
Rimple: Let's say around 100 to 150 dresses for the main cast.
ET: How did you come up with the designs? Was there any basic symbolism for Hindu or Muslims in the outfits?
Rimple: The research was fairly important. Harpreet did an extensive research on the period the film is based on, which is between the 11th and 12th centuries. So, it was necessary to study the kind of fabrics, clothes and jewellery the royalty during that era used to wear. The history behind every outfit and every character was essential information.
Harpreet: As far as symbolism goes, yes, there were many symbols in the dresses. For instance, the Ghoomar song. Deepika wore a lehenga which featured a blue layering and was a representation of Hinduism and Rajputi traditions.
ET: From Khilji's cynical side and Rawal Ratan's piousness to Deepika's royalty and Mehrunnisa's simplicity, the characters were all so apart from one another. Was it challenging to prepare costumes for them?
Harpreet: Well, it was very demanding that we do justice to the characters. The main challenge was to transform Deepika from a Silhenese princess to a Rajput queen. If you saw, Silhenese people are extremely simple.
Her ensembles while she was a princess were not embellished with heavy embroidery or jewellery. But the moment she became a Rajput queen, her outfits changed drastically.
Rimple: She wore heavier lehengas and a lot of jewellery. Even the unibrow Deepika so splendidly carried. It was phenomenal.
Mehrunnisa, on the other hand, was more innocent. There was a part in the film when she banished by Khilji and for that scene, Sanjay wanted a raw look. So, we had a hand embroided black dupatta draped over her to show that.
Ranveer had a dark side to him, so we opted for deep colours such as black and brown. Shahid's attire was more towards the mellow side. Soft tones such as whites and creams were used in his costumes.
ET: The Jauhar scene was grand. It was massive. We saw so many women, all donning red. How did you make sure Deepika stood out?
Rimple: Yes, it was huge. And we made so many dresses for that one particular scene! But, here's the thing: if you look closely, you'll realise that Deepika is holding a dupatta that isn't the same red everyone else is wearing. It is a fuchsia-red and darkish pink.
Harpreet: Since that's the traditional colour of Indian brides, we wanted Deepika to have that included in her outfit somehow. And we felt that a dupatta of the same colour was the best bet.
ET: Padmaavat was ridden with controversy that almost made it impossible to even hit the screens. For protecting honour and dignity of the Rajputi queen, a decision to hide Deepika's midriff via VFX in the Ghoomar song was made. Did you have to change anything in terms of clothing?
Rimple: No, we didn't actually. The controversy started after the first look of the film was out. So, by that time, all the dresses, all the costumes were done. And we weren't asked to alter anything.
ET: Is Padmaavat the kind of work you would like to take forward for your future projects?
Rimple: Well, even before Padmaavat, if you look at our previous work, it has a very classic, traditional and vintage feel to it. So, this is definitely something we'd like to take forward. It's almost like our brand was built to work for Sanjay's film. It is definitely a legacy and we feel so honoured to have worked with such huge names.
ET: How does it feel to visit Pakistan since it's your first time here? Are there any collaborations in line with any Pakistani designers?
Harpreet: It feels amazing. It feels like home, to be honest. You see, Indians and Pakistanis aren't all that different. In terms of culture, dresses, food, films, and even fashion, we are almost similar.
Our roots are from here. Our ancestors lived in the united Punjab, so essentially, we are from Gujranwala. And the love and warmth we got here is exceptional.
We would love to collaborate with Pakistani designers. It'll be like we are working with one of our own.
ET: Thoughts on the Pakistani fashion industry? Is it different from the Indian fashion industry?
Harpreet: Oh, it's brilliant! We've seen the work of some Pakistani designers and we are in complete awe! There's Zara Shahjahan we adore. The cuts and new ideas of today's fashion industry are enthralling!
Rimple: There's Pakistani designer Faraz Manan who has been working with many Bollywood A-listers, with Kareena Kapoor Khan as his muse. It's stunning! We can't wait to come back here and showcase our other work.
Hapreet and Rimple will be displaying their designs on May 3 and May 4. Pakistani starlet Saba Qamar will be seen as their showstopper today.
Previously, Harpreet and Rimple have worked with some Bollywood bigwigs such as Tabu, Madhuri Dixit Nene and Huma Qureshi.
Have something to add to the story? Share it in the comments below.