The vault: Arshia Khan

Jewellery designer, Arshia Khan, opens up her vault to share her most precious jewels and cherished designs

How and when did you get interested in jewellery?

I have been making jewellery for almost 10 years now. I started off designing it for myself and got a lot of encouragement from my friends, which enabled me to start my own collection. After my second exhibition, I did a six-month course for jewellery design in Dubai. This course introduced me to a different market and circle of people, and increased my western clientele. It was surprising to see how interested they were in traditional jewellery, taken from Victorian designs. Around this time I went into working with polki.

What are your favourite pieces of jewellery?

I love jewellery, whether it’s silver, gold, in diamonds and precious stones or costume. To me, it makes no difference whether I’m wearing real or costume, as long as it suits me and I can carry it off. It shouldn’t be too ostentatious or anything that’s not me. Certain pieces may not sit well on me and that’s why a lot of things in jewellery are bespoke. Jewellery, like clothes or bags, goes hand in hand with your needs and style.



Where do you get your jewellery?

All of my stuff is made in India. My diamond jewellery is predominantly made in Mumbai and all my kundan, nizami, and traditional stuff is made in Hyderabad, whether it’s polki, 22-carat gold or Victorian.

Is there any piece you are emotionally attached to and why?

It would have to be my Zambian ruby pendant with polki and single cut diamonds. It’s an exclusive piece and I wear it quite often. If I wear a low-back shirt or a dress, I wear it backwards, or use it as a broach, or sling it through a chain and wear it as a makeshift belt or kamar bandh. It’s a very versatile piece and can be worn as a contemporary, classic, eastern, and western piece. It is reversible and the back is pure gold, intricately carved and very detailed. The other beauty of the piece is that we would never find a ruby this size again.

Share a story about how you acquired your favourite piece?

I got the ruby piece at my own ‘Bold and Beautiful’ exhibition. I had my eye on it from the very beginning and was hoping it wouldn’t get sold. There were 18 of these pieces but this particular one was my favourite.

Is there anything on your radar that you want to get in the future?

There are many! It doesn’t end; as a woman, whether it’s jewellery or bags, it’s never enough! Emerald is my favourite stone; every shade is beautiful. I have been doing traditional for quite some time so I look forward to go into more contemporary, classic and fusion designs for my next exhibitions.