Cafeela conquers desi cuisine
The Karachi-based eatery serves food that can look and sound ordinary, but is outstanding in taste
The Karachi-based eatery serves food that can look and sound ordinary, but is outstanding in taste
It is hard to take appreciative nibbles of a supremely dark and moist toffee brownie, especially after a heavy meal comprising Mutton Peshawari Karahi among other things. Many would opt to forgo desserts entirely and wash down the greasy food with a lime-based drink. At Cafeela, however, karahis are not doused in oil, but served instead in medium-sized white serving bowl with a sprinkle of parsley and julienned ginger, which makes it possible to savour desserts, including a generous helping of the sublime saffron-infused Shahi Tukrey, without feeling too guilty.
Tucked away in the second lane of Shahbaz Commercial, Karachi, Cafeela has an unassuming exterior which belies the thoughtful interior design. Although small, the tidy dining area’s main feature is a collage composed of shards of coloured glass which covers the entire length and breadth of the main dining room wall, giving the rather dark space a much-needed pop of colour. The eatery’s intimate dining area is designed keeping weekend family get-togethers in mind. Tables are placed at a comfortable distance for carrying on conversations and a widescreen television is mounted on a corner wall for diners to watch matches without disturbing others.
Often when you walk into a restaurant with a polished urbane setting, you don’t expect to find dishes such as Palak Paneer, Anda Ghotala and White Daal Mash on their menu. At Cafeela, however, desi food takes centre stage as the restaurant has a particular gift for local cuisine. Although the menu lists a staggering variety of items — with Chinese, Italian and Thai influences — those that stay true to Pakistan top the list.
Cefeela’s main strength is fine, honest home food with little innovation but oodles of flavour. Even if you don’t fancy okra, Cafeela’s Bhendi in Olive oil will instantly convert you into a fan. The carefully organised pile of crispy okra tossed in gravy and finely sliced onions hidden under parsley and lemon wedges, served on a cast iron sizzler, is easily the restaurant’s signature dish and a must-try. Their tender Chicken Reshmi Kebabs, served with spicy, tangy green chutney, are a hot gulp of salt and smoke and the Spicy Prawn Masala prepared using visibly large prawns has just enough heat without being too overpowering. The turmeric stained prawns are so tender they could have diners fighting for the last morsel.
Almost everything at the eatery tastes delicious wrapped in a thin, flaky Homemade Laal Atay Ki Chapati, and since the servers are generally efficient and attentive, the wait for naan/chapatti basket to be refilled is never too long. But while the food is praiseworthy, it is also pricey. If you order boneless Mutton Karahi, you’ll end up paying nearly Rs1,500 for the dish. But alas, even the forbidding prices cannot leave a bad taste in your mouth when you exit this eatery.
Verdict: Cafeela is an ideal place to take guests pining for a taste of authentic desi delicacies without too many complications. The eatery perfects Pakistani cuisine, almost as if it were revering it.
Published in The Express Tribune, May 14th, 2016.
Tucked away in the second lane of Shahbaz Commercial, Karachi, Cafeela has an unassuming exterior which belies the thoughtful interior design. Although small, the tidy dining area’s main feature is a collage composed of shards of coloured glass which covers the entire length and breadth of the main dining room wall, giving the rather dark space a much-needed pop of colour. The eatery’s intimate dining area is designed keeping weekend family get-togethers in mind. Tables are placed at a comfortable distance for carrying on conversations and a widescreen television is mounted on a corner wall for diners to watch matches without disturbing others.
Often when you walk into a restaurant with a polished urbane setting, you don’t expect to find dishes such as Palak Paneer, Anda Ghotala and White Daal Mash on their menu. At Cafeela, however, desi food takes centre stage as the restaurant has a particular gift for local cuisine. Although the menu lists a staggering variety of items — with Chinese, Italian and Thai influences — those that stay true to Pakistan top the list.
Cefeela’s main strength is fine, honest home food with little innovation but oodles of flavour. Even if you don’t fancy okra, Cafeela’s Bhendi in Olive oil will instantly convert you into a fan. The carefully organised pile of crispy okra tossed in gravy and finely sliced onions hidden under parsley and lemon wedges, served on a cast iron sizzler, is easily the restaurant’s signature dish and a must-try. Their tender Chicken Reshmi Kebabs, served with spicy, tangy green chutney, are a hot gulp of salt and smoke and the Spicy Prawn Masala prepared using visibly large prawns has just enough heat without being too overpowering. The turmeric stained prawns are so tender they could have diners fighting for the last morsel.
Almost everything at the eatery tastes delicious wrapped in a thin, flaky Homemade Laal Atay Ki Chapati, and since the servers are generally efficient and attentive, the wait for naan/chapatti basket to be refilled is never too long. But while the food is praiseworthy, it is also pricey. If you order boneless Mutton Karahi, you’ll end up paying nearly Rs1,500 for the dish. But alas, even the forbidding prices cannot leave a bad taste in your mouth when you exit this eatery.
Verdict: Cafeela is an ideal place to take guests pining for a taste of authentic desi delicacies without too many complications. The eatery perfects Pakistani cuisine, almost as if it were revering it.
Published in The Express Tribune, May 14th, 2016.