Mata Hinglaj Yatra: To Hingol, a pilgrimage to reincarnation

Published: April 20, 2016
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Pilgrims make their way to the top of Chandergup mud volcano in Hingol. PHOTO: ALI XAFAR/EXPRESS

Pilgrims make their way to the top of Chandergup mud volcano in Hingol. PHOTO: ALI XAFAR/EXPRESS

KARACHI: In the searing heat of Balochistan, Sunil Kumar climbs up the Chandergup volcano barefoot. Sweating profusely and out of breath, he treads slowly, his ascent interjected by chants of ‘Jai Mata Di’.

Sunil is among the hundreds of pilgrims making their way up to the summit of the 300-foot-high mud volcano in Hingol National Park. Once on the top, he takes out a coconut from his side pocket and throws it in the gooey soup to thank the gods for granting his wish.

The steep trek to Chandergup’s rim is the first ritual of the Mata Hinglaj Yatra — considered the holiest pilgrimage of Hindus in the world. After descending from the volcano with their faces plastered by its holy mud, the pilgrims will proceed to the main Hinglaj temple in the foothills of Kirthar mountains about 35km away.

A pre-Partition mandir and the struggle to protect it

The annual pilgrimage takes place every April in Hingol about 250km west of Karachi, from where the majority of people are coming. But most of them actually started out in Tharparkar.

PHOTO: Ali Xafar

The most devoted are on foot – some coming from as far as Mithi and Umerkot about 550km away, taking 22 days to reach their destination. Others have hired cars and coasters. Built in 2007, the Makran Coastal Highway between Karachi and Gwadar has helped reduce the journey for many by days.

Veersi Malke Dewani, the general-secretary of Hinglaj Mata Welfare Trust, which has been organising the festival for the past 31 years, believes people from all over the world want to perform the pilgrimage but logistical problems keep them away.

Three-tier security

The shrine that attracts thousands of tourists throughout the year is declared out of bound for Muslims for the festival. Considering the recent bomb blast in Lahore on Easter Sunday, the security at the temple is unusual.

Balochistan Frontier Corps personnel guard the entrance route at three check-posts, checking the identity cards of all arriving pilgrims. Muslims are turned away if not accompanied by the pilgrimage organisers themselves.

PHOTO: Ali Xafar

This has not been the case. For years, Muslims have come to the yatra with some even terming it “Nani Ka Hajj”. Locals still volunteer for safe parking of vehicles and arrange potable water and food for pilgrims throughout the festival.

Sanjesh Dhanja, who runs the nonprofit Pakistan Hindu Seva, has taken up the responsibility of ensuring cleanliness at the site. This year, he has started an awareness campaign to educate the pilgrims not to create a mess and keep the temple clean.

Despite security concerns, Sanjesh says this year has seen the largest attendance of devotees, roughly estimated to be around 250,000.

Veersi says about 75,000 people were present on the second day alone — considerably larger in number than last year.

Tying the knot: Hindus in city celebrate Shivratri

Splash of colours

On the way inside, the scene turns as eclectic as any Urs celebrations of Sufi saints across Pakistan. Buntings, red flags and welcoming banners adorn the place. Revellers dance to music. Some watch from the sidelines, some nap under the trees while many continue to walk towards the main temple.

Roadside stalls sell coconuts, incense sticks, statues of Hindu deities, garlands of rose and marigolds, CDs of bhajans, dry fruit and other food items for travellers.

It is no surprise Thari women – easily recognised by their arms full of bangles and colourful dresses – are in majority at the Mata Hinglaj shrine. The estimated population of Hindus in Pakistan is over three million and most of them live in Tharparkar.

The festivities go on for four days but only the faithful stay put. Most people arrive and leave of their own will. On the third day, pandits sing hymns and mantras to please gods for accepting the offerings of the devotees.

The legend

According to Hindu beliefs, Sati, the spouse of Shiva, burnt herself to death after her father Daksha disrespected her and did not invite her partner to a feast.

PHOTO: Ali Xafar

This angered Shiva who went on a rampage in the world carrying along with him Sati’s body. Vishnu then intervened and used his powers to calm Shiva down. He then cut the body of Sati into 51 pieces, which fell to earth in different places.

Giyan Maharaj, a pandit in Khipro, says these 51 places are called Shakti Peethas and became sacred places. Hindus believe the head of the goddess fell in Hinglaj, thus making it the most revered place of pilgrimage.

Trip of a lifetime

All believers, Giyan says, have to go to Hinglaj, which is built in a cave along the bank of River Hingol. This trip along with good deeds elevates the soul, which eventually escapes the birth cycle and reaches god. The soul is then ready for reincarnation inside a new body.

Veersi of the Hinglaj organising committee says most Hindus have come to know about this holy place only recently since the advent of social media. “If visa conditions in coming to Pakistan are relaxed, thousands of Hindus from across the world will come to the place,” he says.

For most Hindus, he adds, visiting Hinglaj is the ultimate pilgrimage.

Few accept the challenge.

Published in The Express Tribune, April 20th, 2016.

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Reader Comments (9)

  • Bunny Rabbit
    Apr 20, 2016 - 2:11PM

    We need more such positive articles about Pak. Recommend

  • hnr
    Apr 20, 2016 - 10:14PM

    Hindus spend in millions on visiting and donating to sacred Hindu spots.If their safety is assured Pakistan can make a sizable sum on Hindu religious tourism alone!Recommend

  • Khan
    Apr 20, 2016 - 10:28PM

    Article incorrectly states that this is the holiest shrine for Hindus in the world. This is not true. It is only so for Pakistani Hindus.Recommend

  • Amit
    Apr 21, 2016 - 2:54AM

    the holiest pilgrimage of Hindus in the world, really and from where u got this fact??? this article is full of inaccuracy atleast give a correct info u you want to or just leave it. the 3 most important shakti peeth is located in Indian state of west bengal and orissa.Recommend

  • Hari
    Apr 21, 2016 - 7:19AM

    Well, it’s in Balochistan and not Pakistan and it shows!Recommend

  • Jay Shah
    Apr 21, 2016 - 7:42AM

    Very good article and pictures.
    One part of the story was sad that Muslims were not allowed – for them this is a revered place also as Nani Bibi – even the sign post says Nani Bibi Mandir and not Hinglaj Mandir.

    I have done this Yatra and for me it was the most incredible experience – http://offroadpakistan.com/2011/06/jay-shahs-pilgramage-to-mata-hinglaj/
    I am so obliged to the Offraoders Club to help me do the Yatra.

    According to the legend, there are 51 such revered places where different parts of Sati’s body fell https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shakti_Peetha. And this is considered the highest – not only for Hindus in Pakistan but for all Hindus in the world.- This is where Sati’s Bhrama – upper part of the skull fell.

    Yes, if the Visa process for Indians is made easy and the security is provided then millions will come from all over the world. Certain places of worship – on both sides – were agreed upon for Visa process at the time of the unfortunate partition and sadly this was not one of them.

    Pakistan has so much natural beauty to offer that Pakistan can have a huge tourist industry for everyone in the World.

    Thanks for sharing.

    ​Love
    Jay ShahRecommend

  • Sheraz
    Apr 21, 2016 - 5:03PM

    Good Article…. :)Recommend

  • Abhay Chauhan
    Aug 17, 2016 - 11:04PM

    Yes this is holiest pilgrimage for hindus(kshatriya) mata hinglaj is kuldevi of all Rajput kshatriyasRecommend

  • Aug 29, 2016 - 3:33PM

    Dear Readers,
    I wish to bring to your notice that we the people of this sub continent consisting of8-10 indipendent nations, that, we are bound by a thread of belongingness due to our shared history, culture and traditions. This subcontinent consists of differrent independent nations, which have different languages, sightly different customs, but bound together by our oneness of this subcontinent. Even, if we go back to 8000 years back, where Great Mahabharatha war occured in Kurukhsetra, then also the same independent nations appear. See, there are great independent natipns like Punjab, Sindh, Gandhara, Magadh,Kambhoj etc are really and fiercly independent, having relations with the kingdom of Hastinapur (capital Modern Delhi). All the independent nations live as they are, without encroaching to into another, but, a stronger one wishes to dominate weaker ones via paying some tax, but not to remove the ruling kingdoms. Then, the stronger one is Hastinapur. Hence some are against the dominance of Hastinapur. They are Gandhara ( modern day Afghanistan), Panchala (modern day Punjabs), Magadha, etc.

    You have to remember, how the king of Gandhara tried to take revenge against the dominance of Hastinapur, who is the main cause of epic war. All of your ancestors are participants in that war.

    Whether, we are foĺlowing same religion or not, but, we have to remember our ancient past and let the people do their rituals in the holy lands. Because, our whole subcontinent is a wholy land, to which all of us are heirs. Recommend

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