PSFW 2016: Upping the style ante

Fashion week continues with more hits than misses

LAHORE: As each designer put their best foot forward to showcase their collections on Day Two of the Pakistan Fashion Design Council Sunsilk Fashion Week 2016, the evening proved to be an absolute visual treat. From Nomi Ansari opening the show with a diverse colour palette, to Karma closing the evening with glitz and glamour, the runway witnessed a myriad of designs, colours and silhouettes. Here’s a rundown of what Day Two of the fashion extravaganza had to offer.

Nomi Ansari



Collection name: Joyride

The teasers sent out prior to Nomi Ansari’s showcase signified it would surely be a joyride of colours. And, he did not fail to disappoint — particularly because colour-play is where the designer’s forte lies. Ansari incorporated an array of kitsch elements such as pop art badges, calavera embellishments, graphic prints, hashtags and alphabets and incorporated a fusion of elements into the design mix. His collection was analogous to Jeremy Scott whereby he drew inspiration from similar elements for his collection for Moschino. Ansari paid special attention to design entire looks for the models — from custom made glasses, dangly earrings, and neck-pieces to extensively braided hair with colourful extensions. While the showcase featured some well-constructed peplum tops such as the one donned by Amna Babar, Ansari could have easily ditched the ghagras from his collection. They have been way too overdone this season and need serious reinvention. Ansari also showcased a line of funky jackets, vests and pants with intricate details and motifs of pop art elements with lots of accessories including funky footwear for men. For a designer who has been only been showcasing bridal wear over the past two years, it was refreshing to see his aesthetic turn to pret.



Ali Xeeshan



Collection name: Voodoo

An Ali Xeeshan show wouldn’t be complete if it didn’t begin and end on a high (read: dramatic) note. The show kick-started with a sensational fashion video which ended in him being shot to death. The collection had its own share of drama and lived up to his signature — “this is me, love it or hate it”. The colour palette was retrained to silver, greys and blacks with hints of refreshing neon green. There was an effort to balance out the drama with a controlled use of colour which resulted in a mature collection on his part. Male and female models wore helmets and sported silver dabka and beaten metal belts and neckpieces. Carrying on the emerging trend from day one, we spotted a few sports luxe numbers as well. The collection was Xeeshan’s sartorial journey from the lowest level of darkness to the highest point of joy and ended with models carrying out elaborate metallic surface ships and horses. This may be alluding to the idea that one must carry themselves forward through darkness.

Sania Maskatiya



Collection name: Décorer

Quite tangential to Xeeshan’s collection was Maskatiya’s ‘Décorer’ which was a continuation of her capsule Fashion Pakistan Week (FPW) Winter Fiesta collection 2015.  Both collections were built on solid colors with a few angular prints and well cut refreshing silhouettes. She treated crepe, raw silk and used overlapping, fold over pants, jackets and layered them all together. It’s great to see minimalism take the forefront at Maskatiya, where simplicity and asymmetric cuts are reigning supreme. The showcase was practical and retail friendly to the core and is bound to sell when it hits stores.



Mahgul



Collection name: The Indus Society

In the past, Mahgul has showcased some standout capsule collections at fashion weeks but this marked her first complete collection. She launched her pret wear, Oro, with aplomb at day two of fashion week. Oro’s first line, the Indus Society, drew inspiration from animal prints which manifested themselves onto clothes that ran the gamut from loungewear, resort wear and formal wear. The designer made intricately designed handmade totes, clutches, sneakers and khussas to create full looks for the three different kinds of lines she created. She even had barcodes on the bags which read ‘Mahgul Oro’ – the attention to detail was incredible. It’s hard to pull off animal prints and look chic but Mahgul’s zebra and tiger prints had undeniable raw animalistic appeal. “She looked like art, and art wasn’t supposed to look nice. It was supposed to make you feel something” –this was the audio played before Mahgul’s showcase that set the tone for her entire show. Even though the show was steller, a top with gold fishbone detail at the back and a crisp white top with a bow in front which stood out the most from afar.

Nickie Nina



Collection name: Flachazo

We wish we could say it was infact Flechazo, love at first sight, but even as the models kept gliding past us on the runway, there was nothing redeemable about the collection. Nickie Nina showcased the weakest collection of the night. The duo had oddly placed various elements which didn’t work together. It could not classify as pret wear and belonged in the bridal week showcase. Even the lovely Mira Sethi walking as the showstopper couldn’t do much for the designer duo.

Karma



Collection name: Studio 54

When designer Maheen Kardar wore dazzling glittery silver pants on Day 1 of PSFW, her outfit caught the eye of many. That, and the disco ball that was sent over as a teaser for her collection. Studio 54 lived up to its name and the anticipation built up for it. There was an unabashed use of embellishment with a 70s flare. Wide flared pants, off shoulder tops and shift dresses collectively dominated her collection. With the groovy music, the ramp felt like a discothèque by the end of day 2.

Published in The Express Tribune, March 13^th, 2016.

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