Charna Island: A diver’s paradise

Pakistan’s Charna Island is a small jewel in the vast blue sea

Those who have visited Charna Island unanimously agree that it is an ideal diving spot. Surrounded by coral gardens replete with exotic marine life, the country’s second-largest island has become a paradise for water-sports enthusiasts. To experience it for myself, I decided to take a trip to the island. 

The day of the adventure

At dawn, our bags were packed. We rubbed the sleep out of our eyes as we met the organisers of Divers Reef Karachi and waited for the rest of the group who had registered for the snorkelling and scuba diving trip to Charna Island. Located in the Arabian Sea, this small, uninhabited island can be accessed from Mubarak Village, a fishing settlement near the Hub Power Plant on the outskirts of Karachi. The best time to visit is during the winter when Divers Reef organises trips every weekend at the price of Rs3,500 per person.

The group explores Charna Island. PHOTO CREDIT: DIVERS REEF KARACHI

We, piled into two vans, breakfast boxes in our hands, and made our way first to Mubarak Village. On the way to the village, we drove past rocky hills and sparse wild greenery, punctuated by brown and dusty land that seems to stretch on for miles before giving way to Sonera Beach. It took roughly an hour to reach Mubarak Village. Even though the sun was shining, the winter breeze gave us shivers as we walked barefoot on the almost-white sands of Sonera. There is a small settlement here, a close-knit community where the men go out to sea and the women and children wait for them on the shore.

Safety first

We had two boat rides ahead of us. Before we made our way to the small fishermen’s boats that were fitted with life jackets for us, a speech was in order from the organisers. Safety always comes first and we had to proceed with caution when flirting with Mother Nature, they warned.  They spoke to us about the dangers of being near the reef, the upcoming dive from the cliff that was not everyone’s cup of tea and the buddy system that must be followed. No one was to be left behind and no one could drift away.

“Most of our team members are certified and trained for Basic Life Support and CPR,” said one of the organisers, Junaid Rahim. “A standard medical kit is present on board the boats but in case of an accident, our government does not have many hospitals or clinics in the area. The road to the hospital is approximately 90 minutes away, and the only available option at the moment incase of accident is a well-equipped ambulance.” In the future, however, Divers Reef plans to set up a clinic in the village to offer free medical service to locals and any visitors to Charna.

Heading into the unknown

As we clambered on board, our boat swayed towards the open sea. A dozen shades of blue surrounded us, the calm waves glistening under the sky as though the water had been scattered with jewels. Halfway through the journey, we hopped onto a larger boat as the waters became deeper and the waves choppier.

Those who had signed up to jet ski, by having paid an additional cost of Rs1,000, began circling around the boat, each one accompanied by an instructor and remaining on the water for 15 minutes at a time. First-time skiers sat towards the back of the boat as they received their instructions before they were finally let out onto the water.

Exploring Charna Island’s diverse coral reef and marine life. PHOTO CREDIT: DIVERS REEF KARACHI

As we drew closer to Charna, we were given snorkelling gear and taught how to use it. Those who were nervous  about scuba diving had chosen to snorkel instead of being weighed down by an oxygen tank. We dove in one after the other once the boats were anchored. Although the reef seemed to beckon threateningly, the waters were relatively calm. The Divers Reef team circled us, lending a hand to anyone having trouble with the gear. For the first few minutes, some divers panicked, scared of choking on the extremely salty sea water. Once we all got the hang of breathing underwater, however, we couldn’t help but lose ourselves in the wonders below the surface.

Rahim pointed out the diverse marine life we were surrounded by: dolphins, sting rays, cuttle fish, parrot fish, angel fish, banner fish, puffer fish, turtles, moray eel, moon angel fish, red snapper and barracudas. “Whale sharks have also been spotted at Charna during the migratory season at the end of the summer,” Rahim informed us. “Unfortunately, fishermen in Pakistan kill these endangered whale sharks due to their lack of knowledge about fishing,” he added. As we dipped back underwater, a jelly fish floated before our eyes, glowing bright, almost unreal in its beauty. As we drifted further away from the illuminating coral wall with its vivid patches of colour, the sea burst into life as the temperature dropped; fish of all kinds and colours, sea snakes, and a sting ray circled us.

Taking the leap

Eventually, it was time to go cliff jumping: a 25 to 30 foot leap into the water. The idea was frightening, but at the same time exhilarating.

Scuba divers explore the wonders below the surface.  PHOTO CREDIT: DIVERS REEF KARACHI

One, two, three. JUMP! Off the cliff we went, sailing into the open arms of the sea below. We had to ensure that our arms did not flail so that the drop was as smooth as possible. It was a shock to the system when our bodies met the water, the impact and the rush of adrenaline was almost overpowering and, while it may have lasted just a few precious seconds, the feeling of the water coming up to meet you can never be forgotten.

As the sea started to swell, it was time to say a reluctant goodbye to the island. We went back to the village, a cup of tea in our hands to prevent the cold from taking hold, ready for a change of clothes and some food. Even though we had been on the trip for almost 12 hours, we were still wide-eyed and excited. It seemed like the underwater haven had cast its inevitable spell on us.

Mariam Gabaji is the editor for The Express Tribune Sports desk. She tweets @mariiiamg

Published in The Express Tribune, Sunday Magazine, March 15^th,  2015.