Karachi's hidden treasures: City pleasures

Lifting the curtain on Karachi’s hidden treasures

If you really want to get to know someone, take long walks with them. Sit across them and read a book. Share a meal. Listen to their words and also their silence. Getting to know a place, or a city, is no different and Farooq Soomro — the man behind the blog thekarachiwalla.com — seems to have mastered this craft. His blog, as the name suggests, documents unexplored corners of Karachi and allows people to absorb unnoticed details of the sprawling metropolis. The following are some of his top choices of places for people who want to get acquainted with a city that they live in, but do not necessarily know.

A table in the past

Saddar’s archaic charm can bowl over even the most rigid contemporaries. The neighbourhood harmoniously blends rustic family-run stores and eateries with modern malls and hotels, and offers a variety of places to choose from for good old-fashioned entertainment.

Cafe Mubarak’s non-fussy decor attracts customers who prefer to sit in a quiet corner and grab a quick meal. PHOTO: FAROOQ SOOMRO

Also tucked away in this pulsating part of Karachi is Café Mubarak — a hot spot for old-world Persian dishes. With its non-fussy décor, that includes arched wooden chairs and white marble-topped tables set in a dimly-lit atmosphere, the place simply focuses on serving good food. Polite, uniformed waiters, who serve tea in vintage teapots, are a pleasant reminder of the glory of pre-Partition Karachi. The menu offers a blend of Pakistani and continental breakfast items including biryani, chelo kebab and seafood dishes at economical rates. And since the joint is a regular spot for students from the Institute of Business Administration’s (IBA) city campus, along with other loyal customers, the conversation is as diverse as the items on the menu.

So, the next time you are in the area, find a quiet corner at Café Mubarak, order a cup of chai and enjoy the energy of a business that hangs on to tradition in a city that is changing by the hour.

Always in tune

The Abdul Waheed Music Shop in Lalu Khet, PIB colony, is the place to go to for Karachi’s musicians whenever they need help with their musical paraphernalia. Broken strings are connected and copper wires untangled as the eponymous owner works his magic on the instruments with his nifty fingers. Along with repair services, he also supplies a wide range of musical instruments including violins, guitars, ukuleles, harmoniums and tablas, making the store a one-stop shop for musicians of all kinds. Accolades in the form of momentos, including a picture with legendary singer Mehdi Hassan, line the walls of the shop, bearing testimony to his experience and dedication to the craft.

One of the store’s owners, Salim, sorts through a pile of books.  PHOTO: FAROOQ SOOMRO

When asked why he chose a relatively less-visited part of Karachi to set up his store, Waheed explains that many self-made musicians belonged to the same area. But like most people in this field of work, Waheed‘s business has been affected by the general apathy towards art and music over the years. He believes, however,  that as long as his loyal clients are creating music, the show must go on.

The world in words

As reading becomes a rare pleasure, spaces such as libraries and bookstores that cater to this niche also stand the risk of being forgotten. Such is the case of the Tit Bit Book Stall that has fallen victim to Sadder’s excessive traffic, followed by no parking spaces, and a dwindling audience over the years.

The Tit Bit Book Stall stocks everything from novels to magazines which are available  at economical rates.  PHOTO: FAROOQ SOOMRO

Sandwiched between Jehangir Restaurant and the Zoroastrian temple on Daudpota Road, the shop is hardly bigger than a small kitchen. The distinct flooring and ceiling fan take customers back in time when books were a treasured and widely available commodity. The bookstore was founded in 1944 by SM Khalil, who moved to Pakistan after the Partition and eventually became a favourite among Karachi’s literary connoisseurs.

A display of guitars and other musical instruments at the Abdul Waheed Music Shop.  PHOTO: FAROOQ SOOMRO

A quick glance at the shelves may be disappointing as none of the books are classified by genre unlike most modern bookstores. But Salim, one of the store’s owners, along with two other elderly gentlemen, act as the perfect librarians and know the exact location and availability of every book on their fingertips. From novels by Robert Ludlum, John Grisham and Sidney Sheldon, to popular magazines and cookbooks, the store maintains a wide collection for adults and children.

Abdul Waheed repairs a harmonium at his music shop. PHOTO: FAROOQ SOOMRO

To increase customer loyalty, Salim even provides personalised services, such as ordering books according to customer demands and selling them below the market price. For example, The Finkler Question by Howard Jacobson, which won the 2010 Booker Prize, is available at the store at a throwaway price, along with many other classics that are priced at only Rs100.

Farooq Soomro documents unexplored sites of Karachi on his blog thekarachiwalla.com. He tweets @thekarachiwalla

Published in The Express Tribune, Sunday Magazine, September 14^th, 2014.