Beauty & the Brush: Dark lipstick

Applying dark lipstick is an art form. Sure, you can take two seconds to slap on a coat before you head out the door. But, we can’t promise you that it won’t fade within the hour. The key to a great dark lip, especially red, is a crisp and polished result that doesn’t wear off easily. Still don’t believe us? Consider the aunty at weddings who has most of her lipstick on her biryani fork and just a ring around her lips.

To make an impression at the next big event with your flawless mouth, grab a few essential items and settle down in front of your mirror. You’ll need chapstick, concealer, a concealer brush (or q-tips), non oil-based makeup remover, face powder, a powder brush, some toilet paper and, of course, your favourite dark lip liner and lipstick.

Bold colours draw attention to and accentuate your lips, so it’s important to make sure your mouth is well moisturised. Apply a generous layer of chapstick to clean lips and let it soak in. The lubrication will plump your lips and allow the lipstick to glide on easier. After a few minutes, blot against a piece of toilet paper to remove any excess. This will allow your lips to remain soft without being greasy.

Apply a thin layer of concealer over your lips to provide a base for your lipstick to stick. Most desi women have some kind of pigment in their lips - the concealer helps to cover and correct this, providing a blank canvas for the lipstick’s true colour to shine through.

Next, reach for a liner that matches your lipstick perfectly, or else once it wears off, you will be left with a noticeable discoloured ring around your mouth. Begin by lining the outer edges of your mouth, some artists find it easiest to start from the centre of the mouth and work their way in. Then, fill in your entire lips. This provides yet another base for your lipstick to stick to and accentuates the colour.

Apply the first coat of lipstick over the liner, don’t worry about accuracy at this point. Grab a piece of toilet paper and blot your lips. Take another square of toilet paper and pull the two layers apart. Place one half against your lips, dip your powder brush into your powder, and lightly dust it against your mouth. The paper barrier will prevent your lips from getting too powdery and what comes through will give your lipstick long-lasting power. Now, apply a second coat of your colour, and get ready for the cleanup.

The key to a dark or red lip is clean edges, which can be achieved in two ways - makeup remover and concealer. To use makeup remover, dip your concealer brush or q-tip into the bottle. Don’t use a remover that is oil-based or moisturising or else your lipstick will smear and slide. Swipe along the edges of your lip line to clear away any stray colour. Concealer also acts as a magic eraser. Tap your brush or q-tip into your concealer and wipe away any hue along the edges of your lip for a crisp line. Remember to blend the concealer in with your q-tip.

And voila! You’re done. Pair a deep red lip with minimal makeup - most artists generally only use blush and mascara, but if you’re a fan of eyeliner you can use it in a thin line on your upper lid to add a little oomph. Choose to use anything more? Don’t look to us for bail when you’re arrested by the fashion police.

Maria Saadat is author of the popular desi beauty site Lipstick Masala.

QUESTION TIME

Do you have a question about make-up? Can’t figure out a hairstyle for an upcoming wedding? Do your attempts at smoky eye make-up leave you looking like a raccoon? Have no fear! E-mail your questions and issues to [e-mail] and Maria Saadat will respond to them in an upcoming column.

Published in The Express Tribune, October 22^nd, 2010.