The timeless Clock Tower of Sukkur

SUKKUR: Ever since its bells stopped clanging, time around Sukkur’s Clock Tower has slowed down.

It is 90-feet high with four clocks that marked the passage of time on four sides. Once upon a time, the sounds of the tower’s bells resounded throughout the city especially at night, when life slowed down and the buzz of daily life muted.

Past and present

Commonly referred to as the Ghanta Ghar, this tower is one of the most important lankmarks in the city. Located smack in the centre of the city, it is surrounded by Victoria Market, Mehran Markaz, hotels and shopping malls.

A Hindu businessman, Seth Wadho Mal Nebhau Mal Manjhari, constructed the tower to mark the silver jubilee of King George V. It was inaugurated by the then Collector of Sukkur, UM Mirchandani, in 1937.

It stood tall and alone at that time with nothing but Victoria Market for company but as time wore on, more and more buildings cropped up. Some were brought down to be replaced by bigger buildings such as the Hafeez Cinema, which was demolished 15 years ago to make room for a high-rise commercial complex, and the Imperial Cinema which was replaced by another plaza. Victoria Market, though, continues to stand in solidarity with the tower, still supplying poultry, vegetables and fruits to people in Sukkur and adjoining areas.

Too close for comfort

In the early 1950s, around eight shops were constructed right around Ghanta Ghar, an affront to its colonial majesty. With more business and less attention to repair, the clock continued to be worn down. Finally, around 15 years ago the then municipal corporation of Sukkur decided to take charge. They demolished these shops and carried out the necessary repairs and renovation. An iron fence was put up around the tower to discourage encroachments.

But while the fence managed to keep out shopkeepers and vendors, it was not enough to keep the heroin addicts back. Not only did addicts smoke up around the clock, they also managed to steal all four clocks of the tower, leaving it vacant and silent.

Nobody seemed to care much though and eight years later, the empty shell of the clock tower still stands without its clocks and bells. The gaping holes have been boarded up and replacements don’t seem to be coming any time soon.

“I was only appointed a while ago,” said Administrator Taluka Municipal Sukkur City Riaz Rajput. “But I’m going to look into it and get new clocks for the tower.”

Centre of business, politics and late-night chats

Ghanta Ghar has always been at the centre of things. Protests are staged outside it and religious parties host their events there as well.

You can find anything from a sewing machine needle to a plasma TV and air conditioners in the area. It has also become a popular eating spot with restaurants and dhabas nearby. The area is famous for many things, including chicken charga, dahi barey, gol gapay, fried fish, seekh kabab and tikka, flavoured milk and many other gustatory delights.

After the families come the groups of political pundits who while away the hours in armchair discussions over perrenial cups of tea in and outside hotels and cafes. Sometimes their arguments are so loud that they can be heard from quite far away. Journalists frequent the area too. Sprawled on plastic chairs near the kulfi vendor, this group spends its time talking about the shortcoming of any journalist not at the gathering. The discussions go on till late night and as long as the talks continue, the Pathan tea vendors keep their stoves lit.

Standing rival

Ghanta Ghar is not the only clock tower in the city. In 1939, the then collector, Kothawala, started building another tower opposite the Gulshan Eid Gah at Stadium Road. Constructions were completed in 1940.

Already 110 feet high, this tower seems to be even taller than the other because it is built on a small hill. So far it still has its four clocks but the hands stopped moving a long time ago. At the time of construction Kothawala had named the tower “Educational Tower” but with the passage to time, people started calling it the Pir Ellahi Bux Tower.

Published in The Express Tribune, September 26^th, 2010.