Revival of red-carpet elegance

Hollywood finally ditches tacky fashion for a night of class

KARACHI:

The Academy Museum Gala has quickly established itself as one of Hollywood's most exclusive and highly anticipated events. With its unique invitation-only approach, the gala offers exclusivity, star power, and - most importantly - a return to the kind of fashion that prioritises elegance over excess. Held at the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures in Los Angeles, the 2024 edition of the gala served as a runway for a renewed sense of less-is-more. Unlike other red carpets of recent years, this one wasn't cluttered with avant-garde headgear, oversized tulle monstrosities, or whimsical cosplay. Instead, it was a night of sleek silhouettes, classic cuts, and understated sophistication.

Ariana Grande and Cynthia Erivo - current co-stars in Wicked - arrived in character, but not in an over-the-top, theatrical way. Grande's pink and white polka-dotted Balmain gown, which was based on an archival design, was a nod to her Glinda the Good Witch persona without veering into cosplay. Erivo, on the other hand, channelled Elphaba's green but in a modern, sleek Louis Vuitton number. Both looks were a masterclass in how to wink at your movie role without squeezing into a literal costume.

Vintage nods and black beads

Sisters Kendall and Kylie Jenner also made a case for old Hollywood spectacle. Kylie's choice of a vintage Mugler gown from 1998 turned heads not only because it was a nod to fashion history, but because it was a reminder that classic style is timeless. Kendall, always one for minimalist drama, wore a fresh-off-the-runway Schiaparelli gown that redefined simplicity as seductive.

Vintage was also a recurring theme on the carpet, particularly with Kaia Gerber's stunning black beaded gown. The dress, pulled from Givenchy's fall 1997 collection, managed to stand out despite its restrained colour palette, thanks to its impeccable tailoring and historical significance. Gerber's choice proved that sometimes, the past holds the key to cutting-edge style, particularly when it's an Alexander McQueen-designed piece steeped in cinematic history. Dubbed "Eclect Dissect," McQueen told Numéro in 2002 that, "My idea was this mad scientist who cut all these women up and mixed them all back together." Featured among the Spanish, Japanese, and Scottish influences is a dress that references Audrey Hepburn's white embassy ball dress in My Fair Lady. McQueen also created a version in black, which Gerber pulled from the archives for the Academy Gala.

For the special occasion, Nicole Kidman opted for an elegant monochrome look from Balenciaga. Kidman wore a sleeveless black gown with a straight-across neckline, cinched waist and subtly flared skirt with a short train. While the dress appeared simple, the back revealed a sultry detail: the back featured a plunging line, which included a bow-like element at the the waist. She paired the dress with coordinated opera gloves - without which there would have definitely been something amiss in her look.

Polka dots and thin watches

But it wasn't just the women who brought their fashion A-game. Eddie Redmayne, known for his daring fashion choices, walked the carpet in a polka-dotted suit that was both playful and polished. Bridgerton's Regé-Jean Page also hopped onto the polka dot train, opting for a low-key pocket handkerchief to match his velvet jacket, silk shirt and cummerbund.

Meanwhile, Colman Domingo embraced a black and white tuxedo with a sash tied around the waist with red trousers, proving that menswear need not be confined to the predictable black-and-white palette to be considered classy. Paul Mescal kept it simple yet effective in a Gucci tuxedo and a thin watch that served as a quiet reminder of the enduring power of traditional elegance.

Favourites and floral sequins

One of the evening's standout moments came from Uma Thurman, whose plum-coloured Fendi silk gown oozed understated luxury. With a wrap-around design that offered both modesty and sophistication, Thurman's look exemplified the kind of grown-up glamour we rarely see on red carpets these days. She wasn't alone in embracing this style - Ava DuVernay and Saoirse Ronan both opted for similar Louis Vuitton gowns in red and black respectively, that prioritised clean lines and rich colours.

A personal favourite from the night was Anna Kendrick in a stunning strapless sequinned gown, in a deep, royal blue hue. The dress was adorned with delicate, lavender and white floral embellishments scattered across the bodice and flowing down the skirt. Anna complemented the outfit with soft waves in her hair and minimal jewellery, subtle choices that allowed the gown to take centre stage.

It seems the night was a collective move toward rejecting the circus-like atmosphere that has pervaded many red carpets of late. Sure, the Academy Museum Gala doesn't have the same pressure as, say, the Met Gala—there's no theme, no televised audience dissecting each outfit in real-time. Perhaps that's why attendees leaned into classic, sophisticated fashion rather than gimmicks.