From Kiran Malik to Deepika Padukone: Pearls are the hottest trend of 2023

Pearlcore, an internet-borne neo-aesthetic, is redefining the timelessness clammed in accessories, jewellery, and more

One can never go wrong with a classic string of pearls—considered for centuries now to be a staple in every woman’s jewellery collection. But now, the utilization of pearls in fashion has evolved beyond the quintessential single string to encapsulate other forms, styles, and designs of wearing pearls and incorporating them into clothing.

While style icons like Jackie Kennedy and Audrey Hepburn popularized pearl necklaces as the ultimate symbol of sophistication, elegance, and wealth, the fashionistas of recent years have redefined and recontextualized the use and styling of pearls. Even though pearl jewellery and pearlescent adornments never went out of style, they have experienced a stronger boost in visibility across the global fashion landscape.

This year’s Met Gala exhibit titled ‘Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty’, perhaps, had a significant hand to play in pearls taking over the spotlight. Karl’s longtime affiliation with the House of Coco Chanel and the luxury fashion house’s fondness for using pearls in their costume jewellery.

Most notably, Kim Kardashian’s drenched-in-pearls, custom Schiaparelli look paid tribute to and highlighted Karl’s 18-year legacy as Chanel’s creative director and the House’s long-standing love for pearls. Wearing layers upon layers of pearl strings in gradually increasing lengths, Kim’s look consisted of a whopping 50,000 pearls. Also walking the Met steps that evening was Alia Bhatt in her custom-made Prabal Gurung gown that was encrusted with a 100,000 pearls.

However, the Met Gala was not the only major red-carpet event where the timeless stones captured the hearts of fashion enthusiasts. Deepika Padukone’s sprawling, pearl-constructed neckpiece and matching pearl-embellished bralette blouse by ace designer duo Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla that she wore to the 2022 Cannes Film Festival also served to show the versatility of pearls and how they can be constructed and strung into any shape or stitched into any form.

Similarly, Margot Robbie’s glorious stack of large-sized pearls that she wore to acccessorise an all-pink gown for a premiere screening of Barbie also had many fashion lovers swooning.

Just as designers, Hollywood celebrities, and Indian stars have realised the timeless grace of the shimmering natural stones and discovered unique ways to include them in their red-carpet-worthy looks, Pakistani divas have also arrived in time to subscribe to the momentous pearlcore trend.

Most recently, our very own fashionista Kiran Malik was seen sporting a uniquely draped saree by Rashmi Kumari, which was paired with a stunning blouse made entire if layered and beaded pearls. The halter neckline of the blouse was sported by strings of pearls running horizontally all across the neck. A cascading affect was created by longer pearl necklaces that were were draped and made to fall down the front in gradually increasing lengths. The layering of pearls did not stop there, as smaller pearls were strung together ad draped over the shoulders to create ripples of pearlescent cap sleeves.

Mahira Khan’s most recent campaign and photoshoot for Sadaf Fawad Khan (SFK Bridals) also featured the Pakistani superstar donning a gorgeous, dainty, all-pearl headpiece with a matching white, heavily-embellished bridal outfit.

Despite these most-recent eye-catching instants of pearl usage in local fashion, Pakistani wedding couture has had a long-standing love affair with pearl embellishments. Khadija Shah’s Elan bridals are revered for their use of modern silhouettes and preference for more Western embellishments like swarovski crystals and pearls.

Much like how Western bridal embellishments have made their way to South Asia over the post-globalisation decades, in the same way, the prevalence of social media and real-time reports has guaranteed that anything seen on Hollywood red carpets can easily make its way across the globe to influence Pakistani fashion.

What makes pearls such an indispensable form of embellishment and accesorisation is the fact that the glistening, fresh-water-borne stones fit perfectly into all of the newfound TikTok fashion trends and neo-aesthetics of the 2020’s. Mermaidcore and Barbiecore cannot part with the classic pearl necklace as pearls are a creation of the sea where mermaids thrive and are also seen as a staple accessory for a globally recognized hyper-feminine female character and style icon like Barbie.

A maximalist’s guide to dressing up would not be devoid of the stack of pearls or layered pearl necklaces trick either. And of course, the accessory of choice for the stealth wealth or quiet luxury subscribers is always the understated single-string pearl necklace, complete with dainty gold clasp.

The prevalence of and predicted continued reign of the pearlcore fashion trend has a lot to do with its versatility and malleability to be hammered and shaped into every possible dressing aesthetic, minimalist or maximalist in nature. However, its sustained popularity and strong resurgence has not some but all to do with the permanent status of pearls as a symbol of classic beauty, old-Hollywood glamour, timeless grace, and royalty.