As Ibrahim Mirbahar prepared for the annual Bhandar Jo Melo this November, he wondered whether he'd be able visit Bhandar Island next year. He knows Bhandar is one of the twin islands off Karachi's shore where the federal government plans to construct new cities.
As every year, he'd packed his tents for the three-day Urs of Syed Yousuf Shah and looked forward to enjoying the festivities with his wife and two kids.
The annual rituals for the Sufi saint usually begin in the first week of November, with the onset of winter, and Mirbahar's family arrived to the familiar carnivalesque atmosphere.
A small market was set up and scores of other fishermen had set up makeshift tents with yet others arriving with families in tow, carrying solar systems, tape recorders and the like, ready to set up camp. Many carried long chaddars to place around the graves of Syed Yousuf Shah and others. Most sported colourful flags and buntings - some to adorn graves, others signifying their boats.
Mirbahar felt at ease among the festivities. "The only prayer for me this year is [that I can] come here next year without any trouble," he said, speaking to The Express Tribune. "We are unable to go to Dingi Island anymore. I don't think we will be able to come here next year."
The small dargah of the saint is located at a mound just near the shore. Fishermen from Ibrahim Hyderi, Rehri Goth and other settlements make their way to the island annually to offer prayers and spend time with their families.
"Most visitors pray for the prosperity of their fishing profession," said Rafique, a resident of Ibrahim Hyderi. "They make special arrangements and invite relatives and friends to visit the shrines."
The small settlement on the island meets them jubilantly as rituals begin.
"This is the most important event of the year for these fishing communities," says Muhammad Ali Shah, the president of the Pakistan Fisherfolk Forum (PFF).
The three-day mela this year began on Friday and culminated on Sunday (yesterday) with more and more devotees arriving each day. Thousands of fishermen visit the shrine on the last day, claimed Kamal Shah, another resident of Ibrahim Hyderi.
The route from Ibrahim Hyderi to Bundal Island takes 30 minutes by boat - and one may only reach the island by water. "Those who have boats facilitate common visitors and help them get here too," explains Muhammad Ali Shah.
As the fisherfolk prayed for better fishing seasons and the prosperity of their profession and community, others, like Mirbahar, also made prayers for their traditions to continue and for them to be able to visit the small shrine again next year.
"People are culturally attached to these islands and want to remain with them forever," said the PFF chief.
There used to be another annual celebration for the Urs of Bab Haider Shah near the beach, Kamal shares. But the rituals for that have been restricted for the past 20 years, according to him. "This is the only place that fishermen from nearby areas visit. They pay tribute to the Sufi saint [Syed Yousuf Shah] and spend nights on the island."
Published in The Express Tribune, November 9th, 2020.
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