FPW 2019 Day 3: Bold, beautiful and blah

Published: March 15, 2019
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PHOTOS: FAISAL FAROOQUI

PHOTOS: FAISAL FAROOQUI

KARACHI: The third and last day of Fashion Pakistan Week was a mix. While a couple of designers put forth exquisite creations, others failed to impress. From vibrant lehenga cholis to monochrome gowns, the garments displayed on the ramp featured a diverse assortment of cuts. Therefore, it was quite challenging to pick out the trends of the season. However, it’s safe to say that some of the best, were definitely saved for last.

Nomi Ansari

Collection: Kaleidoscope

PHOTO: FAISAL FAROOQUI

PHOTO: FAISAL FAROOQUI

The designer opened the show with a bang. Models clad in ever-traditional attires bursting with colour and adornment captured the audience as they walked down the ramp. Ajrak, gajj, mirror work, block print and a spectrum of intense shades – Ansari entwined them all to craft masterpieces fit for the conventional bride.

He steered away from mundane bridal wear and brought forth an array of fun, bright ensembles with the incorporation of the history and culture of Sindh. Every outfit unravelled a certain excitement oozing from the embellishments and silhouettes. What’s more, his outfits weren’t limited to women.

PHOTO: FAISAL FAROOQUI

PHOTO: FAISAL FAROOQUI

Although menswear tends to get lost in all the excitement of womenswear, it didn’t with Kaleidoscope. Garments worn by the male models were as vivacious and eye-catching as they were for females. The couturier managed to display variation within the men’s attires as he showcased several cuts, ornamented waist coats and a blend of countless hues.

Needless to say, Ansari was our favourite from the lot. While it is understandable that his collection was very much an acquired taste, the creativity and art within the pieces was to die for and one must come to appreciate his ability to create something so regal with a combination of ancient elements.

The Pink Tree Company

Collection: Mayon Mehendi

PHOTO: FAISAL FAROOQUI

PHOTO: FAISAL FAROOQUI

The Pink Tree Company blew everyone away with their latest collection as it brought back some forgotten rituals. The display kicked off with a video of decades old mayon/mehendi festivities which set the tone for the ramp. In walked the first model donning an all-yellow ensemble – evidently made for a mayon celebration. The outfits that followed were adorned with similar trimmings but every piece was different in its own way.

Gota played a major role in the apparels and while some may say that this form of embellishment is outdated, that was the point. The line was meant to be conventional and what’s more traditional than gota? The fabric used for majority of the clothing was crinkled, printed lawn or cotton with a net or chiffon dupatta. From the material to the colours and the ornamentation, The Pink Tree Company’s showcase was perfect for Spring/Summer.

PHOTO: FAISAL FAROOQUI

PHOTO: FAISAL FAROOQUI

Not only did the designer team create a mood with the clothes, their accessories also spoke volumes. Gota jewellery, elaborate naths and golden kaleerein all added to the traditional aspect. As far as the cuts are concerned, they varied from a lehenga and kameez to trousers and a pishwaas. Other than gota, sequins and block print made for the adornment. Overall, the line was thrillingly understated and could be worn right off the runway.

Zainab Chottani

Collection: La fée

PHOTO: FAISAL FAROOQUI

PHOTO: FAISAL FAROOQUI

Chottani’s line was so underwhelming. The ramp met with dust pinks, short shirts, scalloped hems and floor-length sleeves… yet again. Been there, done that. La fée directly translates to ‘the fairy’ – however, there was nothing magical about the display.

The transition from the pastel hues to the red was pleasant, but once the scarlet garbs started pouring in, we were even more confused. With a mix and match of silhouettes as well as embellishments, there didn’t seem to be one particular theme running throughout the collection.

PHOTO: FAISAL FAROOQUI

PHOTO: FAISAL FAROOQUI

Some pieces were heavily embroidered while others were covered in sequins. Silhouettes ranged from oversized blazers to front-open shirts and full length gowns. The show-stopping attire, worn by actor Hania Amir, was also a letdown as it brought nothing stimulating to the catwalk.

What did bring about some exhilaration though, was Asim Azhar’s surprise appearance. The singer took the stage and sang his way down the ramp before stopping to serenade Amir. This act definitely caught the audience’s attention and made quite an impact. It’s just a shame the clothes couldn’t do the same.

Tena Durrani
Collection: Nur’

PHOTO: FAISAL FAROOQUI

PHOTO: FAISAL FAROOQUI

Judging from the ornamentation, one could tell a lot of hard work and effort went into Durrani’s Nur’. In no way are we trying to undermine the labours of the rest of the designers, however, the amount of decoration on these attires was overpowering – but not in a good way. The embellishments included floral embroidery, pearls, beading, zari, and tassels.

But, there are more pressing matters we need to speak of. Why in the world is velvet still making a presence on the ramp? A Spring/ Summer collection should have no room for such heavy fabrics, but for some reason they’ve made appearances throughout the week.

PHOTO: FAISAL FAROOQUI

PHOTO: FAISAL FAROOQUI

Moving on to silhouettes, they were actually pretty amusing. The collection saw a selection of modern cuts including halter necks, short cholis and long, front-open shirts. The colour palette also wasn’t all bad with some pastel, silver and champagne tones. One thing in particular that stood out was the use of metallic fabrics which introduced an effortless, contemporary feel to the clothes.

Nonetheless, while some elements of the collection were laudable, the line as a whole wasn’t grand finale material. One, there was no showstopper and two, it wasn’t mesmerising enough. Ample was left to be explored and it did not bring much new to the table.

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