PLBW Day One: This and that, here and there

House of Kamiar Rokni takes the lead, followed closely by Saira Shakira

LAHORE: The sixth edition of PFDC L’oreal Paris Bridal Week (PLBW) kicked off on Wednesday, with designers giving different spins to bridal couture. In a first, HSY opened the show, which Ali Xeeshan will be closing on the third day. At a press meet held earlier in the week, HSY announced, “The slot is inconsequential, you are as powerful as your collection.”

By that logic, the House of Kamiar Rokni emerged the strongest on day one, followed closely by Saira Shakira. The Express Tribune gives a rundown of how it all turned out.

PHOTO: Faisal Farooqui/Dragonfly

Designer: HSY

Collection: The Kingdom

The self-styled ‘King of Couture’ showcased a collection that was divided into four capsules. While The Kingdom brought back some of the spark HSY is known for, parts of it felt like the designer had spread himself too thin. Earlier it seemed that he had been ignoring his fashion brand in lieu of greater pursuits but he mostly proved otherwise with this collection.

He showed Kalajar, Mahkar and Khat e Sahil and finished with his best, Sherastan. The last capsule was inspired by an independent, emancipated woman who allowed HSY to run wild with his imagination. This lack of restraint was what proved worthwhile with Old World, opulent and traditional bridals for which sisters Urwa and Mawra Hocane walked as showstoppers. As far as accessories are concerned, the design philosophy was quite clear: the bigger the better. HSY’s menswear was well done too and it’s good to know that he is serious on that front as well.

PHOTO: Faisal Farooqui/Dragonfly

Sania Maskatiya

Collection: August Dream

Living upto its name, it was a collection in the colour palette of peach, burnt orange and dull gold. The ensembles had mostly intricate floral work with bling-encrusted detailing, creating a pretty and commercially safe collection. What Maskatiya must be lauded for is the consistent finesse in design and fall of the ensembles. The lenghas’ flowed gracefully when the models walked, with nothing out of place. The design house also put out many variations of the peplum cut which is generally, a flattering silhouette.

PHOTO: Faisal Farooqui/Dragonfly

Saira Shakira

Collection:  Zohra

These dresses were a testament to the fact that the designer duo has studied fashion academically and know the craft, the fabric and how to manipulate it. Over the course of time, Saira Shakira have also learnt to restrain their tendency to experiment and bring it to a level that makes their wedding-wear fashion forward, yet wearable. Using materials such as tissue, organza and tulle, they put out interesting pieces like a collared choli and a sheer overlay with pants. The best part about the collection was that it was put together well but was not so perfectly that one would end up feeling constrained or uninspired. Hadiqa Kiani walked the ramp for them, wearing a beautiful tea-pink outfit with peacock motifs.

PHOTO: Faisal Farooqui/Dragonfly

The House of Kamiar Rokni

Collection: Heritage 2016

Just when we thought they could not possibly have any more ideas up their sleeves, the masters of their craft and the triad behind The House of Kamiar Rokni left us floored. Heritage 2016 closed day one by displaying a masterful play of silhouettes that needed no gimmicks to sell. The brand is known for its use of colour and did play with it but towards the end, the collection became a bit restrained with monochrome ensembles like what Amna Babar, Mehreen Syed and muse Farwa Kazmi walked out in. A collaboration with Sonica Jewelers, theirs was easily the most cohesive and mature collection of the night.

PHOTO: Faisal Farooqui/Dragonfly

Rising Talent

Designers: Aamina Naeem, Sara Naqvi, Maryam Amjad

They answered a question you didn’t know you were asking: Is it fair to showcase rising talent with extensively worked upon thesis collections, in a bridal show where general audiences will probably not be able to consume it? The answer is no. It’s not fair to the designers or the audience.

There were murmurs of confusion in the front row about one collection inspired by jellyfish and another by Madam Pompadour and Madonna. Although interesting, the first two capsules were misplaced while Sara Naqvi’s collection, inspired by Mughal hunting scenes was easier to consume at a bridal week platform.

Published in The Express Tribune, September 30^th, 2016.

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