FPW 2016: Missing the mark

Fashion heavyweights fall flat of expectations, kick off extravaganza on dreary note

KARACHI:

Fashion Pakistan Week (FPW) started out with more misses than hits. From both textile brands, Lala Textiles and Kayseria seeming more ready for couture rather than prêt week, to designers such as Sanam Chaudhri, paradoxically experimenting with dark colours for a bright spring, we weren’t entirely pleased. Furthermore, while the ramp witnessed a myriad of off-shoulder cuts and monochrome collections, we are curious to see whether or not these budding trends will take over this spring season? The Express Tribune gives a rundown of who showed what at FPW, day one.

Deepak Perwani



Collection: The Fix It

Perwani’s D Philosophy has always incorporated the quirkier side of the designer’s aesthetics. An ode to the City of Lights — Karachi — the collection was based on the current political scenario of the metropolis. A line for women only, the primarily monochrome collection, featured hues of bright pink and floral prints. What piqued our interest were the ‘Fix It’ motifs embellished on separates, including jackets, overcoats and trousers. The outfits were paired with silver and black pointed stilettos. His opening designs featured off-shoulder silhouettes — a trend, we feel will dominate this year’s spring season.



Kayseria



Collection: Royal Delhi

The textile brand tilted more towards bridal couture. Taking cue from the royal court of Delhi, the outfits ranged from ghararas to shalwar kameez’s, with dupattas festooned with Kiran lace, in soft tones of pink and purple. Models looked traditional with oversized nose rings and dupattas adorning their heads.

Gulabo



Collection: I am Karachi

Ranging from vivid reds, to black and white, Maheen Khan’s collection was the only one that lived up to its hype. In a subtle way, the designer managed to scream out-loud how fashion needs to take a step further, and incorporate funky and modern silhouettes. Jumpsuits, crop tops and plated flared pants dominated the line. Stylised in short and long hemlines, and structured cuts, the showcase was a visual treat for the fashion savvy. Models sported chunky necklaces, black pouts and slicked back hair in textured white.

Lala Textiles



Collection: Sheen

This textile brand put together a fusion of western and eastern cuts in 16 designs. Inspired by shimmer and all that glitters, ‘Sheen’ embodied the use of brocade, silk and chiffon in shades of gold. The designs were accompanied by signature stone embellishments and sequences of zari embroidery across a range of silhouettes. Hues of nudes and baby pinks transcended into sky blue and light grey as the showcase progressed. However, where the fashion week was dedicated solely to pret wear, we feel the brand overplayed the use of embellishments – almost as though it was a luxe couture collection. Gold trinkets in the hair and strappy heels complemented the collection.



Wardha Saleem



Collection: Untitled

Inspired by the “vibrant culture and rich heritage of Pakistan”, Saleem’s collection was different from her previous ones. The line featured a diverse offering, comprising mini-skirts, flared pants, and printed overcoats, tailored using the razor-cut technique. A little reminiscent of Perwani’s colour scheme, Saleem experimented with florescent prints on monochrome silk fabric, defining the modality of the collection. Models donned hand-painted bags with colourful, printed birds on them, adding oomph to the overall appeal. And, those Wellingtons we witnessed on the runway were a sure-fire stand-out.

FP Trend Show

Maheen Karim, Sanam Chaudhri



Four designers showcased what they thought will trend in the upcoming season. Maheen Karim’s collection exuded a warm welcome to the spring season, featuring green flowers on western silhouettes. Her showcase ended on a high-note, concluding best on our list from this section. Obaid Sheikh’s exhibit drew inspiration from Thar. Showcasing a line for men’s wear, the designer toyed with different embroidery techniques such as ari, beadwork and zardozi, fused with block prints. Floral and elephant motifs on waist-coats completed the collection. Nida Tapal of ‘Delphi’ stuck to her signature forte of hand-woven crochet, radiating a regal look on Western notes of styling. Fashion heavyweight Sanam Chaudhri promised a twist to western wear, and showcased a simple yet elegant collection. While one is always ready to embrace summer with bright hues, Chaudhri’s collection took us by surprise, featuring a dark blue, black and white colour palette.

Bank Alfalah Rising Talent



Nida Sohail, Shanza Jamil

Four students from different universities showcased their designs to the best of their knacks. Starting off with Urmia Abbas Naqvi, there was a lot of layering in the collection, with flamboyant cuts on black-and-white material. Budding designer, Shanza Jamil’s collection was yet again a monochrome one. The use of the razor-cut technique accounted for an interesting amalgamation. Next in line was Nida Sohail, who opted for a masquerade theme. Experimenting with black and gold cut dana work on the necklines, her collection blinged up the ramp. Closing the Rising Talent section was Uzair Sardar. From spider claws and parrot cages to safety-pin decked overcoats, this showcase was certainly unique.

Published in The Express Tribune, April 10^th, 2016.

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