Below the knees

Here’s our guide on handling hems and shoe essentials


Daakiya January 31, 2016

A man does not need a large wardrobe, just the right clothes. For the shoe to match that perfect look, the trousers need to be the right length. They need to sit at exactly the right height in relation to the shoes. The lesson here is to find a tailor and build a lasting relationship with him, as the fit of the trousers and the right shoe will create the ultimate style look.

To get the very best out of your jeans: skinny, single roll, even cuffless, we bring simple rolling techniques that will take your denim to a new level. Once you have the cuff(s) down, take note of the best shoes to join them. Now, to match your bottoms with your brogues, and your cuffs with your Chelseas, here’s our guide on handling hems and shoe essentials.

The Crop

The preferred option of many; the clean crop. Since Thom Browne graced the runways with this style, the idea of baring the ankles has been the top of the debate in men’s fashion and currently, the most preferred when purchasing trousers.

How to do it: If your trousers are made to fit, then remember to advise your trusty tailor to make the cut just above the ankles – this is crucial.

Works best with: any trouser but denim.

  1. Derby


Not to be mistaken with brogues. These versatile shoes have the shoelace eyelet tabs sewn on top of a single-piece tab. Think of them as your go-to ‘business casual’ shoe. The open laces allow the shoe to open wider and are easier to put on but still, are less formal than the Oxfords.

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Common Projects


  1. Oxford


Timeless and formal; they go great with suits and create a classic and refined silhouette. If you’re feeling adventurous, a pair of Oxfords can dress down your go-to casual outfit.

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Grenson


  1. Brown leather brogues


These are any shoes that have perforations on them. Back in the day, these holes used to let the water out so the shoe wouldn’t flood. These go well with everything from jeans to suits.

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Officine Creative


  1. Chelsea boots


Kick your style up a notch this season by wearing your boots with jeans and trousers. Go for a more formal look rather than a rugged one.

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Justin Deakin Limited


  1. Sneakers


A low-key pair of sneakers is extremely versatile. You can wear it with chinos, jeans, shorts and recently, a suit. From work to play, this casual shoe will bring you some serious game.

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adidas Originals


  1. Kolhapuri


A classic. Pair your simple kolhapuri with lightweight cotton or linen trousers. Obviously the comfortable choice but doesn’t mean sloppy or un-stylish. Keep the outfit on point; fit those hems.

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  1. Monkstrap


This shoe can easily become the focal point. They have no laces and are closed by a simple buckle and strap. There is no rule as to how many straps, however double monks bring more of an edge.

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Agi & Sam x Grenson 


  1. Suede Loafers


Loafers come in and out of trendiness but always remain a staple. Casual loafers can be worn with denim and khakis, and sockless during warmer seasons.

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Salvatore Ferragamo

The Simple Roll

How to do it: The straightforward and effective roll. A casual and neat option, it’s simply a case of rolling your trouser hem to the height you feel looks best.

Works best with: All fabrics

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The Skinny Roll

By choosing a lighter shoe as opposed to a heavy boot, matching the thin roll will rock the look.

How to do it: Three thin, tight flips, the same length of the hem.

Works best with: Thin denim

The Pinroll

For those that opt for a more street-style look (i.e. sneakers). Sporting the pinroll will keep your trousers from obstructing the view of the shoe.

How to do it: A precise and effective method of bunching the fabric (3-4 cm at the side) and rolling as one before folding it over.

Works best with: Sweat pants, denim and light fabrics.

Take note: on suit pants, this will create a more casual look.

*Now gentlemen, for your ladies’ sake, once you’ve decided to roll up, crop or sweat, you’re faced quickly with what goes between your footwear and your trousers. With the sock no longer being necessary, an ‘invisible’ sock definitely is. The liners keep odours at bay, while saving you the pain that accompany blisters. This is the only answer for an uncovered ankle

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