Steering clear of art sans artisans

Clothing brand Shubinak opens debut collection at PSFW 2015 to promising reviews.

LAHORE: Among the brands that showed at the recent PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week was Shubinak, with perhaps the most outstanding debut collection from day three. With a design philosophy that seeks inspiration from the culture of Pakistan, the clothing brand seeks to enhance the workforce and income of the skilled and committed artisans of Pakistan.

The brand attempts to hone in on the skills of these artisans and bring their dreams to fruition against all odds. Acknowledging the need to preserve the indigenous products of Pakistan and foster local culture amid the growing forces of globalisation. “We don’t need to search for themes again and again because the philosophy of the band is that all products have to be designed around the skills of the artisan,” said Syed Moeez Farooq, CEO of Shubinak.

“Being an activist, socio-activist brand, we have to identify the issues around us and believe the country has to be united to discuss the environment. If no one loves the country, you can’t take its issues seriously. It’s only when you love something that you take care of it.” Shubinak stood out on day three due to its cohesive, detailed and effortless styling. “In one item, you may find elements of different parts of Pakistan — embroidery of Balochistan, ajrak from Sindh, socio-environmental issues in the cloth used, Kalash elements, and embroidery of Punjab. We utilised this in bags, pants, jewellery and shirts, so they all went together.”



Titled ‘Pakistan United’, their collection at PSFW could represent a fashionable and united Pakistan anywhere in the world. Their collection in the store has a ‘jhanda basta’ series on the same theme and one on the Kalash people, a tribe that is dying out. “We are trying to create something, not directly but on a philosophical level, so we take inspiration from the artisans, build on it and send it back to them for work.” He adds, “Our deforestation jacquard fabric has been used to create all the items, with the ajrak print and kaantha on them and is even used in jewellery.”

Many people were concerned about why their entirely pret collection was part of a textile show, to which, Farooq replies, “There was not much brand awareness to begin with. Since it was our first time, it was a learning process. We’re happy that we were put next to big names, such as Gul Ahmed and alKaram, who have been contributing to the economy.” He further says, “We are not comparing ourselves to anyone because our brand is different.”

The showcase garnered praise from the fashion and media fraternity. “It put us under a lot of pressure and since then, we are feeling more responsible to perform better and live up to expectations,” states Farooq. Shubinak has empowered artisans by giving them the opportunity to be part of something that is larger than any individual and will collectively bring change. One must look at the bigger picture, says Farooq, “It’s the responsibility of intellectuals and artists to express through their canvas of apparel. It’s a social responsibility. To create such a platform, whereby everyone involved would be proud and thereby, uniting Pakistan.”

The first part of the collection from PSFW will be in stores by May 30 and the second part, by June 30. The price range is between Rs2,600 and Rs18,000, depending on the kind of embroidery on the product.

Published in The Express Tribune, April 27^th,  2015.

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